4AGE Swap questions

[|PuNiSh3R|]

I will need the 4AGE ECU, Even though I am going with carbs.. correct?

What type of wiring am I going to have to do for the whole swap. I don't need a fuel pump wired in or anything special like that.. carbs stand-alone from any type of engine control. I will be taking the oil pressure and battery voltage gauge from the GT-S as well.

Will I be able to use my 4AF water pump? (since I just put a new one on it..)

Will I be able to use my 4AF A/C Compressor?

Will I be able to use my 4AF Power Steering pump?

Anything else that I missed that I may need to swap over from my '89 SR5 coupe 4AF to 4AGE (high-comp, I hope) swap?

Do I need to drop the tranny to get my 4AF out.. or to get the 4AGE in?

[toyotaspeed90]

water pump i'm not sure...

a/c i don't know (didn't have a/c on the 4a-fe).... if it's on exhaust side like between the exhaust manifold and the oil filter on the 4a-fe then it's on the same place on the 4a-ge

power steering pump.... pump i'm not 100% sure... if you need one, i have one.... PS lines on a gts are different..... i just looped the lines and will find a manual steering rack later

alternator will work if you make a simple bracket (like 1/2 thick metal, 3/4" tall and like 6" long with holes on either end)....

starter will work, but you have to put it on intake side (4a-fe is intake side, 4a-ge is exhaust side) and then use the plate between motor & tranny from the 4a-fe

it's easier if you pull the motor & tranny together... trust me

you might be able to run the 4age off the 4a-f ecu.... i'm running mine off the 4a-fe ecu and we tuned it to work with my wiring/ecu

[|PuNiSh3R|]

I doubt it will run off of the 4a-f ECU.. highly doubt it..
How different are the PS lines?? Basically the high pressure line is all that matters.. Pull motor and tranny together? Bah.. I don't got an engine hoist unfortunately.. I guess with all that out it would be a good time to pressure wash the bay and replace all the rusty nuts and bolts
Which 4AGE did you swap in.. and what mods do you have on it.. and what was the performance difference you noticed?? What do you usually run the engine up to.. RPM wise.. gas mileage?.. etc..

I have a feeling from the day I bought the car the engine was in bad condition.. I mean it felt fine and all.. but I never got good gas mileage.. always had black oil.. My dad is a lucky SOB with his '88 camry.. last time I saw his oil was golden brown..

Um.. If I did a vac check usually on cyl 4.. it'll sit steady at around 20".. seems to be fine there.. but check other runners and the gauge needle pops around all over the place.. sometimes if I rev it a few times then the needle will stop fluctuating and sit still .. Usually pretty low tho.

[toyotaspeed90]

the PS on the 4a-f/e is on the intake side... the 4age's PS is on the exhaust side... so they're quite different..... you would have to pull the lines from a junker....

I have a smallport redtop 4a-ge from japan....
here are pictures before it went into the car:
http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/219038/8

What i added or needed* and cost:
KBD header* $150
GTS thermostat housing* $20
MSD 8910 EIS tach adapter (kinda needed) $35
MSD 6AL/Blaster 2 coil (kinda needed, got used) $80
Spark plugs* $10
GTS radiator* (the lines are different, and since my 4a-fe had overheated i didn't want to take any chances so we went with a new one just in case) $150 shipped
New timing belt* $30
New alt belt* $15
Used 4a-ge flywheel* $40 (for your auto, i have a 4age flexplate)
Adjustable SARD fuel pressure regulator* (needed since i'm using 4a-fe ecu) $120
New oil filter* $5
New hoses* (vacuum, heater, radiator) $30 (roughly)
Distributor cap* (on my 2nd one, MSD has a hot spark ) $20 each
Longer throttle cable* $6 from a pull-apart
Exhaust work done* (this cost me a lot since i went with a full new exhaust... everything from the header back is new) $217 not including header

and if/when you need specifics of what i swapped over from the 4a-fe to the 4a-ge i'll let ya know.... if you need to know now and i'll try to help you out.... i can also send you the links from CC where i described in FULL detail the swap.... (each took me about 30 minutes to type up...)

performance gains: wow.... the first time i took it for a drive i was dissappointed about the steering... but i was all smiles when i got on it.... (it was loud cause the header didn't actually match up with the exhaust correctly)... i can redline it up to 7700rpm's daily and it's WAY smoother getting up there as well.... it's somewhat torqueless.. i'm not gonna lie (made a max of 95.7 ft/lb torque at the wheels).... but the curves of HP at the wheels is fairly impressive... ESPECIALLY since i'm running it off a tuned 4a-fe ecu...

bad picture, i know.. but:
....this was just a first dyno after 500 miles stock internally motor.... it's surprising how much quicker it is... and it will help me in auto-x... my car used to have bad understeering problems with the japanese gtz swaybar up front... but now i have the power to pull myself through....

check here for "completed" pictures... though not the most recent:
http://www.ac.wwu.edu/~milest2/motorswap/Done/

[boroEF]

couldnt u just tear the harness out of a gt-s from a junker and use that along with the proper ecu? that might be the easiest way.

but when u start tinkering with these things, in the end it's actually cheaper to buy a gt-s. so why not consider that route? sell the sr5, keep the goodies and get a gt-s

[toyotaspeed90]

if he's in a position like i was.... the body is good, and i've put way too much money into this one to not keep it..... plus i got a low mileage motor... that's something to think about as well....

[|PuNiSh3R|]

Motor doesn't matter at all since I'm going to completely rebuild it.. so it's basically going to be a brand new stress relieved motor... (from sitting at the scrapper)

Good point though Boro.. unfortunately I've yet to find a nice GT-S ..

I do need some body work up front.. new bumper.. etc.. nothing that wouldn't cost more than say 200$.. I dont' even care though I'm more interested in a good running/sounding vehicle over a few dents.. etc.. No rust.. so that's the positive.

What I do plan to do is sell EVERYTHING from the SR5 motor setup that is still good.. I haven't a need for it and anythign that I can't re-use is going to be sold.. Everything internal.. etc etc. I'm kinda dissapointed to see that you are only at a 110hp though.. I would've been at that with my 4AF if it wasn't for the bad engine
.
That plus the whole torqueless wonder.. I ain't much into no torque.. In daily driving and just general stupid burning of poor hondar fucks.. torque is an advantage. So how was it over the 4AFE you had though? I mean, when you put the peddle down did you really feel the difference? Even though my 4AF is pretty shot.. it still pulls hard.. surprisingly. Kind of why I was interested in a 7AF swap.. more torque.. and .2 more CC.. 115hp and a 135tq.. The added benefit of a longer stroke... I don't understand rev'ing up to 7K if it really isn't gaining much anything just burning more fuel.

So I guess I still have the consideration of say a 7A block with a G head? Or find this glorified GOOD flowing F head.
I know that the quad carbies on the 4ag will make a difference.. But still.. I'm kinda more interested in feeling out another Toyota engine. You do do auto-X so you need a good sturdy strong engine and the 4A is just that.. but really now I can't get into racing with my only vehicle and I need to save up for college n shit.. so I'm more interested in a slightly more street-friendly vehicle.

[|PuNiSh3R|]

Also, wouldn't most everything on my 4AF go over on the 7A?

[toyotaspeed90]

haha.... i am in college & poor and this is my only vehicle

don't forget... those numbers are at the wheels.... the 4a-fe was probably making about 75hp at the wheels before my head gasket went..... yes, they're that low

racer25 on corolla-racing has done a TON of work to his 7a-fe ae102... although he had higher torque numbers, he has lower HP than my 4a-fe.... he's done quite a lot though....

and although i'm only running 110hp at the wheels... i'm at over 100hp for quite a while... it's not really "peaky" power or anything... and i can DEFINATELY feel the difference....

[|PuNiSh3R|]

Then he's doin somethin wrong, methinks. If I was only getting say 85hp at the wheels out of my 4af.. Then I think other cars I raced must've only had 90!

[toyotaspeed90]

you'd be surprised at the low numbers.... on one of the horsepower TV shows they dyno'd a civic ex (sohc vtec motor) before and after mods... afterwards they were at like 89hp or something at the wheels.....

btw.... if you want (and have msn or aim) you can add me to chat about a swap or whatever:
msn: toyotaspeed90@hotmail.com
aim: toyotaspeed90