CVJ replacement on a '91

[pdrover]

This is a continuation of my earlier ball-joint thread.

Recap: I have a clicking noise on the front left as I accelerate while turning right. Initially thought it was a ball-joint problem, but now, on advice and further investigation, I'm convinced it's a CV joint problem. I removed the wheel and inspected the CVJ to find that the rubber boot is split.

So I returned the new ball-joint and bought a new CVJ. Now, I'm no mechanical wizard, but I am the sort of person that figures that I can solve any problem plied with proper tools, a touch of common sense, and as much time as it takes. So I naively jump into these things knowing eventially I will succeed. This is no different.

Now, I have a few questions that perhaps someone out there can help with.

1. The installation insert that came with the CVJ indicates that the drive shaft assembly should be removed from the car before removing the CVJ from the shaft, so as to avoid stress to other assemblies that may need subsiquent readjustment. Is this a practical approach? I certainly do not expect the CVJ to slide off the shaft, but will it require so much exertion that it may affect other parts of the drive train if left attached? Is removing the drive shaft an arduous task?

2. Who out there has done this replair before? Is there a step-by-step? Photos?

3. What are the potential potholes to look out for?

4. I've been unable to source a shop manual locally. I checked with alldatadiy.com only to be informed that they do not support my particular model of Corolla ('91 diesel sedan imported used from Japan). Is it necessary, or just a convenience. Any idea where I could find one for this model? Anyone with an alldata subscription willing to share the procedure for a similar model (say a '92 sedan, I think my body style is AE102)?

5. Are there specialized tools required. I have a decent set of metric sockets, and assorted screwdrivers and pliers and one steel hammer.

With your help, my tools, and my digital camera I hope to document my repair and make it available to others who need to do the same. Thanks in advance.

Paul.

[TRD_kid]

i had to have this done a while back. i was watching my mechanic do it, and it didn't seem all that hard. i myself don't know how to do it but if you want i can check my haynes manual to see if i can scan any pics/instructions....not sure how similar it will be for you though.



off topic, do the plates really look like this over there?

i gotta rep my ppl

[pdrover]

Scans would be cool, part seems pretty generic. Plate is pretty close. BTW, did your mechanic remove the drive shaft, or extract the CVJ directly from the wheel well?
Paul.

[Chris Corolla S]

I knew it was the CV joint.

If your car is an AE102 then the suspension should be the same regardless of the engine. The 93-2002 Haynes manual is about 40 US dollars. Even if it is not exactly the same it has pictures and decent instructions so It should help alot. I don't know if you have these over in ireland, but maybe you can order it from www.Amazon.com

[Chris Corolla S]

AE92:


AE102

[Tercel GTS]

Are you replacing just the cv joint or the whole cv axle? if you did buy just the joint I must ask how much that cost.
and yes you have to remove the whole axle.

[pdrover]

I asked for a CV joint. I recieved a piece of hardware that is essentially a drum shaped sealed unit with a short axle on one side that appears to accommodate the wheel and rotor, and a threaded, grease packed hole on the opposite side that I assume is meant to take the drive shaft. This part cost me 70 Euros which is about $80-$85 US.

From Chris' photos, I definately have an AE102, a 1991 AE102.
Here she is


Right now, as far as I can see, there are two things that may keep me from completing the job: if specialized tools are required, or if one of the nuts/bolts happen to be frozen (I do not have a grinder, nor the skill to drill out a broken bolt). Taking off the drive shaft is more than I anticipated, but if that's required, I'm up to the challenge.
Paul.
(Hey! I just moved from "noob" to "official TN dude"!)

[homeguard]

http://www.928s4.com/project/cv.htm -about the boots and stuff
http://pages.infinit.net/engine/cv_j...aintenance.htm -replaceing the joint
http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBr...3d8016bc86.jsp -more goods

[pdrover]

Thanks for those references homeguard, they're excellent.

But now I'm confused. I, in my ignorance, assumed that there was only one CVJ, on the drive shaft just behind the wheel. But the pages.infinit.net reference suggests that there is one on each end of the drive shaft: one behind the wheel and the other connecting to the transmission, and that they may be interchangeable! The boot damage I can see is on the device right behind the wheel.

So what I'm expecting to have to do now is this:

- remove wheel
- remove brake caliper
- remove rotor
- disconnect ball joint (special tool required?)
- disconnect strut
- remove 6 screws from the transmission.
- give a tug and the shaft and CVJ assembly should come out of the car.
- take it away to my shed to remove the worn CVJ.
- install new boot and CVJ.
- reverse procedure to reinstall.

Will I need ring pliers? Brass rod? plastic hammer? vice?

The more informed I am, the easier this will go.

Paul.

[homeguard]

whats the vin number on your car?

[pdrover]

CE1003000347. Does that look right?
Paul.

[pdrover]

Ok, I think I've freed up a day to do this job. I've arranged to borrow a ball-joint puller to assist the removal of the axle. The mechanic that's lending the device as also offered to walk through the procedure so that I won't run into any unforseen problems.

Last weekend, I did some exploratory surgery: I removed the wheel and tried to figure out what had to be done. I realized that if I couldn't get off the nut off the axle that holds the rotor, the job would stop there. So I went at it with my rachet. I had to use a cheater but it came free. Having satisfied myself that I could at least start the job, I put the nut back (I didn't have the entire day to sort the job then and there).

But this brings me to my next question. The rotor; I believe that it is press fitted onto teeth on the axle. After the brake caliper is removed, what the best technique for getting the rotor off?

Paul.

[Chris Corolla S]

The brake rotor should just slide right off. The only thing holding it on is the lug nuts and the caliper and pads.

[Tercel GTS]

and the caliper bracket

[pdrover]

I was thinking last night that if the rotor does not slide right off, could I not just reattach the wheel for extra leverage and then wiggle until it slides off. Makes sense to me.
Paul.