This looks like a friendly place, so here it goes...
I just bought a 2000 corolla ce. There is one thing though, the clutch squeaks when you press it. I know it's probably something simple to fix but I have no idea how. I read someplace that it's probably the spring but I have no clue how to get at it.
I'm new to this car stuff so if anybody could give me a few pointers, I would apreciate it!
the spring should be on the clutch pedal in the footwell, just above the pivot point. give it and the pivot point a good greasing while u down there and see if that helps.
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- 2001 AU Ford Fairmont Station Wagon (The Family Taxi)
Bwahaha I have the exact same thing, I haven't gotten around to fixing it because it goes away when the weather is nice, but check this out: http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/t43419.html
That is why you run a search before asking a question here
thanks.
it only does it intermittently so i can still put up with it.
btw, I did search but I searched for 'squeak' not 'squeek' which would explain why I didn't find anything. other searches I did on the net pointed to the spring but that wasn't it.
I took a look at the thread you pointed me to but it seems to complicated a fix for me(it is in the 'hardcore' section after all)
If I leave it, could it lead to a catastrophic (and expensive to repair) failure at some point in the future?
If squeak comes from engine side of firewall, then source is either (a) bad fluid (dirt) in the clutch hydraulic cylinder, or (b) the very high friction metal to metal contact point where the pushrod meets the main cylinder' piston (a convex/sphere contact). Accessing the pushrod (b) involves removing the two nuts located on the footwell side probably located at the clutch pedal support, detaching the assembly, and then greasing that metal-metal contact point. If your lucky (very cautious and well planned procedure i.e. gease nearby) you will likely succeed in limiting the fluid loss to that spurt when the piston spring relaxes (spring loaded). In my case (98 Corolla) I went for a total grease job, and removed the pushrod from the clutch pedal, and the whole clutch pedal assembly, greased all the pivot components which includes plastic bushings (the likely source of friction noise as these were dry!!). I first had cautiously pushed back a bit on the push rod (first detached it from the pedal) while removing the circular retainer spring which has two holes into which you insert your needle nose pliars and squeeze it out of the slot. The cylinder's piston will tend to move towards you as it is spring loaded, letting some fluid flow onto the floorboard so place a couple sheets "Kleenex" to take up that slight spill. You can then leave the piston rest as fluid leak will only be limited to that first spurt I heled it back with a kleenex). I also greased all metal plate to metal plate contact areas before replacing rebolting the support back to thr firewall. Assume that all friction points could be the culprit! I used gear/bearing grease on the pivots and metal plates and lithium on the pushrod-piston contact area.
Result? No more squeaking, fluid clutch movement and happy faced, contented driver! Took me 3 hours + patience, so also saved big bucks. Go for it.
if it constantly squeaks when you have your foot down on the padal and doesn't squeak when your foot is off the pedal, then it's your throwout bearing.
when you press down on the clutch pedal, the throwout bearing pushes up on the pressure plate diaphragm to disengage the clutch. when your foot is off the clutch pedal, the t.o. bearing is not in contact w/ the pressure plate, thus no squeak when the clutch is engaged.
this is a 1 minute fix, Im assuming that the noise is from under the hood when u apply the pedal... In the side of the trans , there is a rubber boot where the clutch fork goes into the trans, peel the boot away from the trans and spray some lubricant into the hole onto the input shaft. pump the clutch, noise should be gone.
chk this post, there are pictures of the area. lubrication points
But yes, WD-40 should work OK. However - I would suggest CRC's 2-26 if working in Engine bays... it is non-flamable and non conductive, so you can use it on electrical too..
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- 2001 AU Ford Fairmont Station Wagon (The Family Taxi)
In the side of the trans , there is a rubber boot where the clutch fork goes into the trans, peel the boot away from the trans and spray some lubricant into the hole onto the input shaft.
Yeah, you just spray that lube in the clutch bellhousing and get the clutch lubed too, oil makes good friction.
yay for replacing the clutch after that lol. Thats what fried the jetta's clutch. Oil seal went and continuosly put oil on the clutch (n) hope toyota doesn't have that issue lol
hey flashmn is the clutch on your ae92 fully hydrolic? mine is just a small ram that pushes a lever, almost like my jetta's clutch except the jetta uses a cable
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