need head repair

[mr_sinister]

I don't have enough experience to say anything about the engine, but the body looks pretty decent..

how are the frame rails under the car? floor pan? driver's side shock tower?

I say if the chassis is in good shape, I think it's worth it to get this car fixed up.. you got it for cheap anyway (i think?)

mr. sinister

[ApexForBreakfast]

Yea, the frame is the best. I don't see any rust anywhere. There's actulla rust proofing done on the under body. Just the body panels. there are original stickers on the trunk, doors, under the hood so I'm guessing no major accidents. The Used car report confirmed that. Interior is pretty clean too. Does anyone know how to check engine parts? The head is pretty clean, just carbon. The piston rings seem to hold oil so I'm pretty sure no leaks there. And the Cylinder walls look clean. Can someone confirm this? This is going to be a budget rebuild, don't want to spend on extras yet.

[goodcookiedrift]

i would take the head and the block to a mechanic/machinist to see if there are any imperfections on the cylinedr wall, piston, head, etc.

get the deck shaved and cleaned up. both surfaces of the head and the block have to be completely clean and flush before the head gasket can go on. Also, i believe you need to put a compound on (i think some jap tuners use a silicone like compund) in between head and gasket/block and gasket to keep a firm seal. go to crappy tire and ask.

whether you plan on going forced ind. or na, plan your steps. meaning, since you've already got the head off, get the appropriate pistons, rings, con rods, head gasket (material and its proper thickness), studs,valves and valve springs before you assemble it and then have to take it apart again.

putting the head back on is not a huge task provided, you have the right torque specifications, torque pattern, and the proper sequence of valves and valve springs/injectors/ect. but it looks like your valves and valve springs are still in tact so that shouldn't be too big of a problem. if i can scan the the torque pattern and settings for the 4age, i'll post it up here.

Nick

[ApexForBreakfast]

Thanks Nick. That woudl be great. Right now I just want to get the motor up and running. So I'm going to replace all the gaskets and seals on the head. Don't really want to overspend with valve springs or other head work. Just need it to run.

[goodcookiedrift]

in that case, in my humble opinion, you should consider buying another engine as an option. with 4age's going for app. 4 bills, its a steal...but then again, if you are doing the work yourself, you will be saving heaps.

Nick

[ApexForBreakfast]

swapping in an engine is an option ... but more like a last resort. second last would be paying some to put it back together for me. for the next couple of days, it's going to be cleaning for most of what i can get my hands on and then identifying what's what and makeing sure things aren't broke. i guess the situation i have here is, i just need to slap the cylinder head back on, get the cams/injectos/hoses/wires cleaned and put back. i doesn't seem like too much work. fill back up all the liquids and then fire it up. if it works, great! if not, yikes! the brakes are another story. the fronts are ok. but the ebrake cable don't work. plus, when i depress the brake, when we pushed it, the front pads took off some of the rust on the disc. the rears don't seem to have done that. i think maybe they're seized.

[goodcookiedrift]

with the brakes, could be....remember, theres more bias towards the front. also be sure to check the brake bosster, master cylinder and proportionating valve. all those things could effect it. but worst comes to worst, pull the rear calipers off and get a rebuild kit...fairly inexpensive. the ebrake cable is a cinch. only thing to take note of...and i guess this applies to all 86 tuners, if you break a rusty bolt/screw, be prepared to wait at least 2 days for toyota to order a new one. I've broken many and all i can suggest, is patience and a sh** load of wd-40 and a torch.

Nick

[hawaiian]

I have a 1998 4x4 p-up with 259,000 miles. The motor runs strong but burns alot of water. I am aware of the head gasket/head recall which is expired for my truck on a 10 year rule. I am looking for a replacement 3.0 motor. What years and modles have the same motor. 1989 to 1992 p-up 2 and 4x4, 4 Runners 2 and 4x4. What about Camarys. How about a Chevy v-8 conversation kit.