Replace Headgasket or buy used motor?

[awdCorolla]

Here's the deal, the motor in the car has 150k with a blown headgasket, service records indicate by the book service intervals and oil changes. The entire gasket kit is like $90 + water pump $50 + T-belt $22 + T-belt tension'er thingy $40 + headwork ($100)? = $302

Or the local junkyards have used motor with around 100k on them for $275.

Would it just be better to grab a used motor and put it in there and hope it's been treated right? It seems cheaper to do this than rebuild the current motor.

I'm thinking the bottom end would be strained if I got a nice new head and put her on there and bumped the compression ratio back up. Hmm...anyone?

Scott
'89 All trac

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: awdCorolla on 2002-05-18 11:09 ]</font>

[bondobondo]

On 2002-05-18 11:08, awdCorolla wrote:
Would it just be better to grab a used motor and put it in there and hope it's been treated right? It seems cheaper to do this than rebuild the current motor.

i would just go with another engine, pref one with low milage. call around and see what you can dig up.

even with your old motor, there are no garuntees that the bottom end doesn't have spun bearings/journals.

I'm thinking the bottom end would be strained if I got a nice new head and put her on there and bumped the compression ratio back up. Hmm...anyone?

the bottom end should be fine for any headgasket/head shaving bump to increase the compression ratio. If you started changing pistons and crankshafts, then thats another story.

it should be a 4a cast iron bottom end. good for at least 300bhp in stock form.

before i would have anythoughts about my bottem end not being able to handle it, i would worry about the integrity of my piston rings.

Scott
'89 All trac

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: awdCorolla on 2002-05-18 11:09 ]</font>
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<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: trueno92 on 2002-05-18 11:51 ]</font>

[awdCorolla]

yeah thats what I was thinking, I actually meant like the piston rings, and how worn they probably are on my current motor.

The lowest miles motor I've found is 95k, which I guess is to be expected for a 10 year old motor. Which is better than 150k on my current motor.

This begs the question of course, should I replace the T-belt and waterpump while I have this new(used) motor out of the car, and of course I should replace the clutch/pp.

So I guess it makes more sense to buy a used motor, rather than put money into this one.

[bondobondo]

yes, replace all of those items while the engine is out of the car

with any useed engine, ti would be good sense and peice of mind to replace all belts, pumps and fluids.

even gaskets as well. to prevent leaks in the future.

[goodcookiedrift]

you should be replacing the water pump, timing belt, fan belts, etc....even most seals and gaskets regardless. The fact is that the motor is used and there is no garauntee that the previous owner(s) took care of it in the same fashion you would.

I highly doubt that the bottom end may be damaged. ITs very un-toyota like to have its internals damaged. However, you might want to get the block inspected for piece of mind anyways....make sure the hone marks are correct, there's no gouges on the cylinder wall and that there's the right amount of play between rods, journals, bearings and crank...especially if you plan on modding the engine to withstand a fair bit of power (??).

Nick

[manmade]

i'm faced with the same problem. this one is for an '89 corolla though. i took it to canadian tire to get checked out...and guess how much they were charging me?...nearly $1,300. forget that!!! right now i'm looking to get an engine swap. i've called used japanese auto parts dealers...and everyone seems to have the same quote on 50,000km engines (so they say)...$400. if anyone has any suggestions...i need help!

[TorontoBud]

$400 for what engine? Same year 4age? Get a 20 valve or GZE. If you are gonna spend some money, spend the extra buck and put in a crazy powerplant.

[manmade]

20 valve? what kind of engine? they told me i can't fit any other engine in there....unless i change the mount i guess.

[Xenon]

Why don't you sell him your engine Marc, instead of advertising the 4AGZE or the 20v :smile:

If you have a GTS it's cheaper to swap any other engine in, but with the SR5 I'd have a huge hole in my wallet because I have to change the ECu, Wire Harness and possibly the transmission!

I'm lost, I don't know what to do?? Help me father!

[goodcookiedrift]

The 20v is not that 'potent' of a power plant. Agreed it is putting out 170 out of a 1.6 but it has a very narrow power band. Most of the power comes in on after 4500 and on to 7800. Its a high strung engine, so if thats the type of power you are looking for, the 20v is choice.

However, you run into many other problems with the 20v. Amny things have to be custom constructed such as water lines, fuel lines, distributor relocation, etc. You also have to be sure that your 20v assembly comes with air box, map sensor, o2 sensor, any other sender units and of course the accompanying ECU. Mind you the ECU could be bypassed with a standalone like a Haltech, Elect. or SDS.

You will have to be conscious of what to do when parts break. when you need a new water pump, what will you do? when you need to change the timing belt tensioner, what will you do? spark plugs? wires? those are major things to consider as NONE of them are remotely available for the 20v in North America.

Nick