HEllo i am in ontario canada, im trying to selll a chevy cavalier
1998 2 door coupe, base model no AC or anything power
however i got tinted windows on it, a remote starter and a stereo system with a sub
the car has 104000 km and im great condition
i need help, i have a buyer already, but i accepted too low of aprice, how do i get out of the deal, no papers havent been signed yet or any money given
what should i do i get a better price
as well what would be abetter price for the car, the blue book value is like $2500 to 3500 , im asking for $4300
should i go higher what would be a more recommended price for such a car
remember i am in canada, so i dunno about the states prices
what would u people recommend i sell the car for and how do i go about finding another buyer or asking the present guy to raise his price cause i said so?
thank you all
a verbal contract can be considered binding and legal.....just tell the buyer that u decided not to sell at the present time.....its highly unlikey that they would be willing to pay a higher price now that ur re-negging (sp??) on the original price.....good luck....
sorry but 1st you bought a chevy
2nd you bought a cavalier
and 3rd, you're asking too much since it has no value
if you said ok and the guy gave ya an account, sorry, too bad for ya
if i were the buyer, i would be angry if you refuse to sell it at this price
anyway this is just my opinion
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'93 AE102 LE 1.8 5spd
'77 TE31 Deluxe 2TC 3spd Auto
Based on autotrader.ca a base Cavalier is going for $3,495 to $5,000. Therefore unless your car is in exceptional shape I think you should be happy that you can get rid of it so quickly and easily.
You will burn more time (and money) trying to get the extra $500 to $1000 out of the car.
tell him to go for it, he doesn't have a ground to stand on, there is no attorney dum enuf to waste time on that. I dont know about Canada , but in the states, he has no legal ground to stand on.
Koss, don't take this problem more seriously than it actually is. If it makes you better, find a nice lawyer from the yellow book and just have a nice chat with him for 20 minutes or so. He will charge maybe $15 - $20 for the advice. Explain your case to him and I can guarantee that he will tell you that verbal commitment means nothing. Think about it out of the box for a second and use common sense. If the province starts prosecuting cases that were based on deferral from verbal commitment, you will have everyone and his brother would want to hop on the bandwagon to get money out of the next poor fellow they know.
__________________ SSM 05 Corolla XRS 6 Spd VVTL-i 2ZZ-GE /04 Corolla S 1ZZ-FE (sold)
Here in the US (or at least MN) until you sign the title AND there is written proof of recognition of vehicle transfer (e.g., you both signed a piece of paper [like a receipt] saying the car was his) the car is yours, for better or worse. I say better better because until you sign that title there's no arguing it's not your car. I say worse because even after having signed the title, until you can prove somebody has accepted responsibility for a car, it's still yours, especially for insurance liability purposes.
In the original e-mail I saw,
Quote:
the blue book value is like $2500 to 3500, im [sic] asking for $4300
First, I guess I'm confused by your now asking outside the range of your original blue book estimation, or was this the underestimation range? What did you offer the car for originally? Second, somebody else said they looked up the value and it ranged from $3495-$5000. I think you need to establish what the true value is for this car since I'm seeing a big range. Different sources will produce different valuations. Some may also show different values according to whether or not you are checking a dealer's price, a private seller's price, or what you'd get for a trade-in. You will both be working on somewhere between the trade in and dealer selling price for the car. He could always go to a dealer, you could always trade it in. He doesn't want to pay dealer prices, you want more than trade-in. After that the price it goes for is a matter of how badly you want to sell the car vs. how badly people want to get the hands on that particular kind of car. Finally, also check the newspaper and see what they're really going for in your area. People often use blue book values as a guide but I know insurance companies will look up what similar vehicles are actually selling for in your area when paying a total claim (voice of experience).
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1981 Corolla Wagon, 5-speed, 159k miles-- my winter wheels
1981 Corolla Wagon, AT, 125k miles-- my summer wheels
One time I had a gts up for sale, got a buyer and he was out of state, he said he will buy my car but to hold it up for him, and i did but didn't hear from him for 2 days, then i sold the car to another guy and the original buyer threatned to come down hard on my with lawyers and such,
I told him that an email is not a legal contract and that I've showed good faith in trying to hold the car for him but He never spoke about cash terms, he only threathned me with 2 emails or so but then after ignoring him it's stopped.
I say buyer came late, too bad, tough luck! So I didn't even worry about the asshole.
in your situation, as long as the guy didn't leave you any money or deposit, the car is still legally yours to sell if you decide to sell it to him or not, I never ever deal with people that don't have cash because verbal agreement means shit to me, it was probably your mistake too if you did made some verbal agreement with your buyer,
but take the advice of some of these guys, make the car non operable enough for the buyer to ask for his money back.
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