I just recently bought a 1990 DX A/T from my mechanic. I love the little thing, but have had trouble with it since day one.
First night out (Halloween), the alternator went out, costing me nearly $400 to fix. *boggles at the cost*
After I got the car back, I noticed a significant increase in exhaust noise as well as a bad vibration while the car is sitting in idle. The vibration stops when I hit the gas or put it in neutral.
The Check Engine light came on and has remained on for a few days. I took it to the mechanic and he wouldn't even look at it, saying it was fine and not to worry. Needless to say, I worry.
NOW, with the Check Engine light still on, the car will suddenly act as if it is bogging down off and on repeatedly while going at normal speed... 50-60 MPH. This will go on for a few minutes, then smooth out for a few minutes, then start again.
Does anyone have any suggestions? Thanks in advance!
Make sure that the car had a tune up done, if not, I would recomend that. Maybe changing filters, pipes, spark plugs, ets. And my suggestion take it to a better mechanic, not the one that wil ignore your problems. The bad idle is probebly due to a clogged throttle body, so make sure you get that cleaned.
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Check Engine light went off for a couple hours yesterday, but is back on again. I DID notice that after I filled up, the bogging has decreased. I don't know how long the car might have sat before I bought it. It might have had gunk in the fuel line. I always use middle grade gas in my vehicles.
From what I've been told, the car had a complete tune up, oil change, tire rotation and new timing belt put on it before I got it. But who knows.
The vibration has gotten worse now. It's no longer happening only during idle in drive. It's also vibrating in park and neutral, though not as severely. The car has plenty of power and pep.
90 is OBD II and autozone usually will not read the code. Go the the autozone website, find car specific repair guide and it will show which two ports on the computer attachment site u have to connect to get the codes. The attachment is under the hood, driver side. The code will show as blinks of the CEL; ex. 111.....1 is 31; then u have to check each code.
If u don't like that idea just work around the basics; detach each wire one by one and see if it makes a difference-worsening, if not either the spark plug or the wire is gone.
Wow....$400 to replace an alternator. Hope they lubed you up well beforehand.
Pop your hood, look on the driver's side fender. You'll see a little gray box that says, "Diagnostics." Pop the cap and there's a pinout underneat the cap that tells you which pin is which. You're looking for E1 and T1. Short those two together with a piece of wire, turn the ignition key to the point where you're JUST about to start it (the oil, battery, etc. lights are on). You'll see your check engine light flash.
If all is well, it'll just blink with no delays. However, if there are codes, it will blink them like so:
Originally posted by Ukrainian102 If the whole car is vibrating heavily, especially in drive and reverse, it may be time for new engine or transmission mounts.
Does your car really run as hot as your signature image shows? Sheez...should get that looked at!
I thought only the Cali-emissions cars had EGR in 1990... I know my non-Cali '90 DX doesn't have it. The diagnostic procedure above by TekPhobia is correct. The check engine light should flash a code if you do it right. Post the code when you get it...I have a factory service manual and can tell you how to fix it. Good luck! Regards, Aaron
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