Alrght, i'm gonna replace the timing belt on an AE92 corrola SR5. I just wanted to ask if anyone can explain how the tensioning mechanism on this cars timing belt works? Is it just a bolt?
It is a bolt that goes through a spring-loaded tensioner, IIRC. The tensioner is just a bearing (kind of like a throwout bearing)with a wheel on the outside of it that the belt rides on. There is a coil spring that provides the tension, and a bolt that locks the tensioner in place. Just loosen the bolt in the center of the tensioner, move the tensioner to the end of it's travel, retighten the bolt to hold it out of the way, and slide the old t-belt off. After the new belt is on, loosen the bolt on the tensioner. This will allow it to slap back against the belt and provide tension. I push the tensioner into the belt a little just to make sure it is tight before I tighten the bolt up. Make sure the belt is nice and tight, because it will stretch a little and you don't want any slop in it. That's it! Regards, Aaron
dont forget to replace the front main crank seal and cam seal while you have the T belt off it will save you the headache of replacing them when they actually fail if they havent already (any oil on the right side of the engine?)
I'm replacing the timing belt on my AE92, but its the 4 door sedan... Not sure if this is any different from the above.
It was recommended that I purchase/replace
timing belt
idler/tensioner
water pump (with housing)
1 crankseal, 1 camseal
accessory belts (A/c, power steering, alternator)
Is there anything else I should do while I'm at it?
Originally posted by ratboycom dont forget to replace the front main crank seal and cam seal while you have the T belt off it will save you the headache of replacing them when they actually fail if they havent already (any oil on the right side of the engine?)
Ok, how do i go about replacing these?? I'm doin the timing belt myself and don't know how to replace these seals. I'm guessing that i drain the oil to start. Is it as simple as taking them out and putting in the new part?
The 4A-FE is the same whether it is a sedan or a coupe. Mine is also a sedan. It sounds like you have all of the parts that you need. The front main crank seal is kind of a pain in the ass to change...you will need a puller to get the lower timing belt gear off. Once you do, the old seal just pops out and the new one pops in. I didn't mess with my camshaft seal, but it is probably the same deal.
The water pump is also pretty easy to change onece you have everything taken apart. Just make sure everything is CLEAN when you put the new pump in. You don't want it to leak!
The only other thing I can think of is the crank pulley can be kind of tricky to get off. Toyota didn't leave enough room for it to clear the lower part of the fenderwell, so you have to lower the entire motor for the thing to slide out (it is not as complicated as it sounds). You will have the motor mount off on that side anyway, because the mount actually passes THROUGH the timing belt. With this mount removed you will have to use a jack to support the right side of the engine...just lower the jack a little and the pulley will clear the fenderwell. Good luck! Regards, Aaron
Originally posted by cobrajet25 The 4A-FE is the same whether it is a sedan or a coupe. Mine is also a sedan. It sounds like you have all of the parts that you need. The front main crank seal is kind of a pain in the ass to change...you will need a puller to get the lower timing belt gear off. Once you do, the old seal just pops out and the new one pops in. I didn't mess with my camshaft seal, but it is probably the same deal.
The water pump is also pretty easy to change onece you have everything taken apart. Just make sure everything is CLEAN when you put the new pump in. You don't want it to leak!
The only other thing I can think of is the crank pulley can be kind of tricky to get off. Toyota didn't leave enough room for it to clear the lower part of the fenderwell, so you have to lower the entire motor for the thing to slide out (it is not as complicated as it sounds). You will have the motor mount off on that side anyway, because the mount actually passes THROUGH the timing belt. With this mount removed you will have to use a jack to support the right side of the engine...just lower the jack a little and the pulley will clear the fenderwell. Good luck! Regards, Aaron
shouldn't the jack be on the left side of the engine as that is the side that the mount has to be removed from??
Right, jack on left side if you are looking under the hood, but the right side of the car if you are driving or sitting in it. I think Toyota calls it the "right-side motor mount". Regards, Aaron
A little tip to getting the crank pulley off. Get a breaker bar with a 19mm socket. Put it on the crank bolt, rest it against the ground. Disable the ignition (pull the plug wires) and blip the starter a couple times. That'll break the crank bolt loose.
Originally posted by cobrajet25 Right, jack on left side if you are looking under the hood, but the right side of the car if you are driving or sitting in it. I think Toyota calls it the "right-side motor mount". Regards, Aaron
Yea i'm never sure, it always seems to change depending on who your talking to. Personally i try to just use drivers side or passengers side to avoid confusion
Tekphobia, ur sure thats ok?? Sounds like it could be damaging. This is with the T-belt off right?? also is it safe to turn the engine over without it being fully mounted?
Originally posted by JDAN Yea i'm never sure, it always seems to change depending on who your talking to. Personally i try to just use drivers side or passengers side to avoid confusion
Tekphobia, ur sure thats ok?? Sounds like it could be damaging. This is with the T-belt off right?? also is it safe to turn the engine over without it being fully mounted?
Well, you're gonna have to get the crank pulley off to remove the timing belt. What was your plan of attack on getting it off?
I'd take a video of me doing the procedure if I really had to. With my 18" breaker bar, I just rest it against the axle and blip the starter. You hear a "ka-tink!" and the bolt is loose.
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Regards, Aaron
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