hey guys, my car just died and my friends and i have taken the tbelt cover off to reveal its gone. is there any faq's or guides to removing it other than a chiltons book or any other tips u guys can offer? hell even a writeout would be awesome! thanks, mark.
Well, assuming that you didn't bend valves and dent pistons when the timing belt flew off you need to get the correct specifications for the motor you have which does involve either a toyota service manual or a chiltons type book. If the motor isn't damaged I wouldn't risk setting the timing wrong off of something someone said on an internet forum. Replacing a timing belt isn't too difficult if you know what you are doing, but it may be worth taking it to someone to have done. If by your forum name of Stealth TT if you do have a twin turbo Dodge Stealth (Just a 3kGT VR4) you better check your timing belts too, that is an interference engine that loves to eat timing belts and destroy itself like your friends corolla might have done.
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btw, if it's a 4af.. which I'm assuming it is.. it's fairly simply.. rip all that plastic cover shit off the belt.. pull the reminents of the old belt off.. remove the crank pulley.. I believe the easiest way to do this will be to remove the valve cover, set cyl 1 valves to compression (both sets of valves closed) remove spark plug (remove them all while you are at it) drop a shitload of string into the spark plug hole.. then go and remove the bolt on the crank pulley.. the string will stop the piston from being able to complete revolution.. this is why it's important to make sure both intake and exhaust valves are fully closed.
The rest is simple.. use a jack with a wooden block on it to hold the engine up at the oil pan.. remove the passenger side engine mount.. slip new timing belt in.. remove the spring holding the belt tensioner.. make sure u don't lose it..
put new belt on.. put spring back in tensioner.. tension belt.. put the crank pulley back on yadda yadda super simple.
it is a 4af engine. how do we find tdc with the #1 cylinder and and where should we put the timing belt back on "i know it goes on the timing gear yada yada" to insure proper or close timing so were to avoid any piston to valve clearance problems. Thanks in adavance...
Last edited by stealthtt24; 12-23-2004 at 12:33 AM.
Crank the starter. If the engine spins, there is probably no valve damage. There shouldn't be as the 4A-F is not an interference motor, but who knows. The t-belt is not hard to change, but is time-consuming. Essentially, the entire front of the engine needs to be taken off. Fortunately, none of the belt-driven accessories (A/C, PS, etc.) need to be removed, only the belts that drive them.
The water pump pulley has to come off, and that is kind of tricky. There is not enough room for it to clear the fender well, so you will have to lower the engine after the right motor mount is removed (this mount actually goes through the timing belt, so it has to come off) to allow it to clear the fenderwell.
As far as resetting the timing, there is a timing mark on the head and a timing mark on the oil pump. Align the mark on the lower timing gear with the mark on the oil pump, and the mark on the camshaft pulley with the mark on the head. Since both shafts (crank and cam) only have 360 degrees of rotation, setting them at these positions and installing the belt should put the shafts in the proper positions relative to each other. And yes, it has to be EXACT! If you are off by so much as a tooth, the car will not run right. You should start the motor after putting the new belt on but BEFORE putting the car back together. If the motor starts up and runs fine (no noises, missing, etc.), then all is well. Any problems will present themselves right away. As soon as you know the car runs right, shut the motor off. Do not let it run for more that 30 seconds or so. There are lots of posts detailing this procedure, so use the search function at the top of the page to get more info. Good luck. Regards, Aaron
Last edited by cobrajet25; 12-23-2004 at 07:55 AM.
If I remember correctly you do not need to remove the water pump pulley.. ur talking about having to remove it to get a plastic T-belt guard off right? just grab that plastic shit and rip it right the hell off.
the 4af wont bend the valves, just align the notch in the crank pulley edge with the 0 mark on the timing cover, pull the crank pulley off, get the small bolts you can get to from underneath on the timing cover, let it down on a block of wood under the oil pan until the motor just moves, STOP or youll cave the oil pan in, get the mount off and get the timing cover off, get the tensioner bolt loose and pull on the old belt hard to get the tensioner all the way back, then tighten the tensioner bolt, let go of the belt and take it off, now grab the cam gear with a large channellock and get the dot or line at 12 oclock, there is a notch in the cover behind the cam gear I believe to get it just perfect, an oil filter wrench will turn it too. slip the timing cover onto the bottom part and see if the crank pully notch is still on the 0, put the belt on and make the slack side on the tensioner side ONLY, loosten the tensioner bolt and let it tighten the belt, then tighten the bolt again, check the marks again , tighten the crank pulley bolt up a little and start it up in PARK, DO NOT move the gear selector , see if it idles ok and seems ok, if not check the timing marks again, then clean everything up and put it back together, by the time you get good at these you can do them inside of an hour
i think on the 4afe there is a small hole in one of the webs on the cam gear that aligns with a hole just above the cam seal, and the crank, just align the pulley with 0 on the timing scale before you pull the crank pulley off
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, tighten the crank pulley bolt up a little and start it up in PARK, DO NOT move the gear selector 
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