Hey, i probably have a vacuum leak (intake manifold, carburator gaskets, werever) but after i changed the EGR valve its running worse...or better but tuned to old egr = bad, we wouldnt know.
Here are some pics of the Carb's sides, i pointed out the idle needle (i know how to use) but i dont know where is the mix (A/F needle). I need someone to walk me thru the tunning, i've done it before but on R/C cars so i have an ideal or how it goes, sounds and feels.
that hose with the shipe stripe under "driver side" is a vacuum line which is always vacuumed by the cover with air filter over. If you want more pics let me know, i you want a sound or video clip of how the engine runs i can make it happen, lemmi know.
Hey, i probably have a vacuum leak (intake manifold, carburator gaskets, werever) but after i changed the EGR valve its running worse...or better but tuned to old egr = bad, we wouldnt know.
if you have a vacuum leak, you wont be able to tune the car.
Tuning RC cars is a whole lot different that tuning cars, you're running with methanol on them.
Theres two screw on the back side of the carb. one with a sort of a "flower" on the end, thats the idle speed screw, then theres a screw thats recessed and can only be adjusted by a "special tool" (which is BS), thats the idle mixture screw. I wouldnt fiddle with the idle mixture screw without having the car connected on a CO2 analyzer / wideband O2 and EGT.
then again I dont like the aisan carb, its a very shitty carb to get any performance out, its possible to try and get some out, but its not the best carb to start trying to get any major gains. I swapped mine for two DCOE webers
EDIT: None of your pics have pictured either the idle speed nor the mixture screws.
heh i'm probably not spending money to mod this engine...plus i dont think this engine car live with dcoe webbers
about my crappy engine: i must've been messin with the wront stuff then.
Still, i looked and there's nothing on the back side of the carb. That Needle i denoted in Pic 1 as the "idle needle" has to be it, it accelerates and decelerates the car (or mix?). But, i noticed yesterday a tinny screw right next to thisone (screw's head is as wide as the body ~ similar as idle in RC car).
Also, would you recommend i take the carb and intake manifold off and replace those gaskets, because any air leaks has to here because the lines are OK. Lastly, for some reason the engine takes forever to rev down, what do you think might be happening? (in fact, sometimes it revs up between shifts w/ out throttle)
*i took the car out yestedar to go "dirt" drifting its really addicting!
EDIT: oh, i forgot to mention...like the RC car, that little screw i described, also has a spring around it. could it be the idle?
i was right...the small screw i found was indeed the idle and the bigger one in Pic1 denoted as "idle" is the mix.
With the help of my father (Warton master in Economy ) we did a slight, RC nitrous oriented tunning, and dropped the idle to 2000...it still dies under 1500... Concluding that there's probably no vacuum leak, or maybe a small one and that the problems is probably that my EXHAUST is clogged.
i mentioned this before in a thread a while back, Starting exactly @ the catalic, once the engine is warmed up, this, along with the rest of the exhaust, turns BRIGHT ORANGE in heat. So in an hour or two, i'm taking that **** off and unclog it Venezuelan style!
Now i know why i got this car for $100!
Please give me your opinion on wether the cat is shot/bad, or if its possible the exhaust is clogged...this way i'll just weld on a straight pipe.
Your first picture looks to be the IDLE Speed screw.
Right above the idle speed screw is your primary cut solenoid.
Second picture looks to be of the Dashpot adjustment if you have and automatic.
If you have a catalytic converter equipped toyota. The idle mixture screw is hidden under a cap. So you can not see it. To the right of your idle speed screw , sort of the middle of the carb then turn 90 degrees down, near the base maybe a round cap flush with the housing.
Note that when the engine is cold, or the electric choke is not functioning properly. the Idle speed screw does not control/affect the idle speed. When the engine is cold the Fast idle screw and stepped cam control the idle speed.
Very cool info...and YES, the little screw about 90* under that idle mix screw is the idle.
After i gave the car a slight tunning, i brought the idle down to about 2000, but now, after the engine's been running a while, rpms drop like crazy and kills the engine, so i gotta hit the gas constantly.
I unproffesionally adjusted the mix and idles (with RC tunning knowlege) and it worked fine....the car still backfires like crazy, runs very poorly and seems to still have a vacuum/air leak somehwere (hand over car=accelleration)
At this point, any tips on things to check, move around or replaced would be appreciated. do you think i should replace the head, intake and carburator gaskets? (vacuum lines are OK)
The screw by the throttle (first picture) is not the idle mix screw it is the idle SPEED adjustment screw . This is the one off to the left side by the throttle shaft.
The one 90* down by the carb base is the idle MIX screw. It screws right into the carb, some what in the middle of the carb, lower base. It might be covered by a round cap. Meaning Toyota does not want you adjusting it and changing the emmissions output. But it can be carefully drilled out. Drill too deep and you damage the screw.
If you look a little left of the idle speed screw and a little down there will be another small screw, it is for the fast idle adjustment. A flashlight would come in handy here. It might be covered in gunk.
So if you got the srews mixed up you have the idle speed screw, screwed out thinking it is the idle mix screw (richer mix) . which results in no idle speed.
Then you got the idle mix screw screwed in thinking it is the idle speed screw (faster idle). Which results in little or no idle fuel.
Also do not forget with a cold engine, the idle speed screw does not control the idle speed until the electric choke has warmed up.
ok cool, i found all those screws and learned their locations...but now i gotta move em around and haven't got the slightest idea on what does each screw does. Once i know this, my common sense and mech "skills" will let me in on the rest.
I supose you'll be kind enough as lend me a bit of your knowlege??
p-p-p-pleeeeeaaaaaaaaassse
But your still better off taking it to a mechanic especially one that will let you watch and learn. You do not live long enough to make all the mistakes yourself.
yeah i guess... thanks for the intent anyways, lots of usefull info, but i'm sure i can't solve the problem
i just also realized i have a leaking clutch master cylinder....o men, if takumi didnt drive something similar to this i'd consider my car a dangerous peace of tetanus!
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its really addicting!
Update!!
Linear Mode
