they would work if you can get someone to make you the manifold or make it yourself, after that you're gonna have tuning hell, nobody that knows car carbs can help you with those, and bike mechanics dont like to help you because you're with a car. Been there done that
I saw on one of the other forums where some people put them on 4af, 4ag and 2e engines so I thought maybe it would'nt be too much of a stretch for the 3tc, wishful thinking on my part but I hope not. I have a bike mechanic who knows these carbs in and out, he's also a car fanatic so we'll see, I'm trying to find out what options I have. I have a machinist background but I don't have access to any machines at the moment. Thanks
in all honesty, i still don't get why you have to use the bike carbs when there's tons of auto carb combination you can use that's been proven to work. why go through the hassle of fabricating adaptors and other stuff you need to run those when the time you're spending can be used on the dyno tuning your ride. maybe it's just me, ah well to each is own. goodluck on the project!
__________________ 1982 Toyota Starlet (SP61) boosted since 2007
I tried to get a set of slide-valve carbs to work on a car once, and they were even from another car.
Tuning doesn't even begin to describe it.
The dual Webers were tuning hell, but possible, these just didn't respond to changes.
How about just using a Weber DGV(Pinto carb) with a simple adaptor on the stock manifold?
I saw a set of sidedrafts on ebay once for a starting bid of $900 , I was hoping if it wasn't to much of a problem that I could save a few $ using what I have now. But with what I've been told on here it does'nt look I'd be savin' anything. I guess I'll just get webers or mikunis, a holley 4bbl I'm told may be a cheaper way to go. I see intakes for $280 to 500, I hope I can get a good deal on one soon, the 4ac engine is anemic and I'm ready to get at em.
With side draft carbs do you think the vacuum charateristics will be the same as the
2 barrel downdraft? If you do not have the same vacuum, the vacuum advance on the distributor will be different. Downdrafts work on the venturi principle. Sidedrafts work on a sliding something or other thing?.
For downdrafts, maximum vacuum occurs when the idle mixture and idle speed are at the optimum settings. Increasing the idle richness at that peak point doesn not increase the idle RPM anymore.
I hear Holleys the way to go for cheap power gains.
But check your vacuum advance too. Maybe its leaking. Big difference in power between having one that works and one that doesn't. They are hard to find now and
new aftermarket parts dealers that still have them gouge you good.
If you do not have the same vacuum, the vacuum advance on the distributor will be different. Downdrafts work on the venturi principle. Sidedrafts work on a sliding something or other thing?.
Thats just talking out of the ass, all carburetors work on venturi effect.
On a near stock engine, for the street, Webers are really pretty easy to setup with a simple choice of maybe three different types of emulsion tubes, but on a real race engine with over 310 degrees of cam duration, things tend to be different, speaking from real experience anyways.
Webers are a waste on an engine without a huge cam, might as well just have a single carb.
The real advantage of any individual throttle plate-per cylinder setup is to eliminate the cross-pulsing between the cylinders within a plenum type manifold when using large cams.
Why anyone would waste their time putting sidedraft carbs on a wheezer 4AF is truly beyond me.
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