if you do it...make sure you do it right and everything is secure and no slop. how ever much you drop the motor, you should drop the tranny the same. and yes, the drive shaft is 2-piece, but i don't know if it'll stand that much of angle. you might have to buy a kit and "re-level" your whole rear end.
if you do it...make sure you do it right and everything is secure and no slop. how ever much you drop the motor, you should drop the tranny the same. and yes, the drive shaft is 2-piece, but i don't know if it'll stand that much of angle. you might have to buy a kit and "re-level" your whole rear end.
My plan is to get a custom aluminum one-piece shaft once the motor/trany is lowered
Muscle car guys get one-pice aluminum shafts for their cars, because you lose power with a 2-piece and a lighter rotating mass will send more power to the wheels .... there is a guy here that already has one in his corolla .... i want to hear what he has to say / add about his experience with it.
i know i bunch of older mucsle car guys and most of them have two piece alluminum...why would the second piece make it lose power if it was allumimum aswell
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I would love to get some Cusco lowering mounts, lower engine=lower CG guys, think boxer engines.
1-piece driveshafts eliminate that rotational "lag" caused by the U-joint between the two half shafts. However I'm not sure if it will yield significant amount of power, but it'll do wonders for direct response and pick-up.
I personally would stick with a 2-piece driveshaft for its adaptibility to movement, its more forgiving when the drivetrain geometry is slightly out of shape. With a 1-piece, having setup the shaft to be in the same center axis as the transmission and diff. may cause problems if suddenly your car has to endure over pavement with uneven elevation. (For a strictly off-road race car this is not a problem.)
Whatever your decision may be, adjust the mounts until you have the transmission center axis parallel to the diff. center axis, even if they are not on the same plane.
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