ok here is the thing i have figured out everything i need to know about making a cusome turbo for my car except one thing....can i use a stock intake manifold by just adding some work to it, cause doest it only take air in, nothing really changes in a turbo one except the connectiong right? if anyone can asnwer me that thanks
another question whats the most psi i will be able to run with a stock 7a-fe i know i should change the compression ratio and the stock one is 9.5:1 i was thinking about putting on a 4a-ge head on it, which i know will give me a bigger compression ratio, and arent those engines made to be supercharger anyway, so i turbo shouldnt hurt it either.
tell me what u guys think... thanks
(dont go off calling me stupid its just something crazy i wanna try doesnt mean i dont know anything about car, as some have assumed)
changing the head will only change the compression ratio because the combustion chambers are different shapes...... if anything, i would assume a 4ag head would cause your compression to go UP not down (you want lower ratio's for forced induction)
4age was never meant for a supercharger.... the 4agze was..... the early model 4age had completely different internals (only parts that were the same were the head parts, except the cams).... the later 4age (88+) shared cranks and i *think* connecting rods with the gze, however the 4agze had lower compression (US and JDM versions used forged pistons) and had oil squirters.
a 7afe might hold about 12psi.... the 4afe has been known for that to be about it's limit in stock trim... the 7afe i would be a bit cautious since the stroke is longer (and i would assume the con rods are longer as well) making the possibility of throwing a rod easier.
you have some info right, you have a lot wrong though
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1) 2004 IS300 Manual/LSD/Sportdesign 2) 2010 Corolla S 5 speed 3) 1986 MR2 "MK1.22" 5sfe/s54 swap 3) 1995 Ford Explorer 4x4, TT/AAL/custom shackle lift, 31"s
yes toyotaspped90 is right if you put a 4age head on it. it was cause your compression up not down..in yse 7afe and 4afe is know to push up to 12pis......because my 4afe did with just a fuel pressure regulator and a high perforcmance furl pimp....i did 12psi 3 times until i blow up my motor.....and right now i jsut finsih swaping a 7afe...
oh... cause i heard it the other way around i heard it would lower my compression ratio, crap... i dont really wanna do my pistons..would the 4agze head fit on the 7afe?
and can someone answer my first question about the intake manifold
GE and GZE heads are identical, the lower compression is done with pistons. Just use the 7A-FE head and get some forged pistons from wiseco, lot easier. You should aim under 9:1 compression anyways.
ok i just did some research a stock 7a-fe has a 9.5:1 compression and i also found out that a golf gti 1.8 t also has a 9:5:1 compression ratio, only difference between the 2 engines is that the gti has forged pistons, which is what flashmn suggested, another thing i also found out that my car will be ran at only 6 psi which i dont think will blow the engine, i mean the engine is still in good condition, i have a couple gasket problems right now but my pistons and cylideners are in great condition car has been tested... i did a compression test and the results were about 210 average on all cyliders, which is really good cause i think the min u should have is like 180 some where in that range....so do u guys think i should keep the stuff i have in now an take the risk or not?
There are more differences between the 1.8T and the 7AFE...LOTS. Toyota has shitty head designs which makes them succeptible to detonation/pre-ignition a lot sooner than say a.....Honda head. I dare you to run 10psi on a 12:1CR Toyota motor. I don't know the details on the 1.8T motor, but I'm sure it's much more advanced than the econobox 7AFE.
And 210 psi is a bit high. I'm guessing you've got a bit of carbon buildup on the pistons. Just imagine what happens when that carbon starts glowing during boost.
Frankly, I don't know you, but I don't see a turbo happening. You're a long ways from knowing HOW to do it. Most people give up after a while. There's more to it than, "what's the most PSI I can run?" PSI is relative. With the right amount of fuel, you can push boost until mechanical failure; rods get tweaked, etc. Holes in pistons, cracked ring lands are the result of lean conditions...not fun.
dude no u got the whole thing wrong here my engine is clean on the inside it has been women drivin for about 7 years.... i check out the whole engine i some what no whats going on the inside... i take good care of it, but for the other part thrust me i know a lot more then u think about yea i can work on them yea i know what a good and bad engine i just dont know much about tuning them yet.... i dont know how much shit u need to keep a car running with out blowing ur self up, plus im cleaning it up sometime soon anyway, since i will be changin my gaskets cause they are pretty bad
Toyota has shitty head designs which makes them succeptible to detonation/pre-ignition a lot sooner than say a.....Honda head
WRRRONG... Brand has nothing to do with turboing, Valve angle, combustion chamber shape are leading issues that make them shitty. Honda heads are worse to turbocharge than a F head from toyota, which is alot better to turbo than the G head if we compare heads together.
Not to mention, neither G,F, or a honda head have cooling channels running close to the exhaust valves, which most turbocharged cars have (to keep valve/head temps at bay).
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I'm guessing you've got a bit of carbon buildup on the pistons. Just imagine what happens when that carbon starts glowing during boost.
Modern gasolines dont leave much deposits, unless you're using avgas, which is different in composition as its not meant for cars in the first place.
Okay first off, lilmadafaka, if you want some good help here you can get it, but stop acting like you already know everything. If you're asking super-basic questions like how much boost you can run then you obviously haven't "figured everything out". No offense.
Other than having the same displacement, the 1.8T and 7AFE are nothing alike. Isn't the 1.8T a 20V head?
Now, if you are serious about having a turbocharged Corolla, your #1 best option is to swap in a 4AGZE. The GZE is built all ready for boost and is already low compression.
A more powerful version, but more complicated, would be getting a 4AGE 20v (silvertop) and rebuilding it with the GZE pistons. The 20v head has been proven to work very well with a turbo.
If you are going to turbo your stock 7AFE, then just forget about running high boost. Keep the boost low (7 psi) and keep it tuned well and you'll be all set. When you want to get serious about boost, swap in a better engine.
If you're going to turbocharge a 7AFE, I suggest a couple things. First, go over to www.6gc.net and speak with Nik who has turboed at least one 7AFE with good success and is presently selling the setup he had on his car.
Now what you need is a good tuning device, like Greddy eManage, Turbo, Turbo manifold (you can probably have a flange welded right onto the end of your stock exhaust manifold, more or less), Intercooler, Intercooler piping and connectors, Intake and Exhaust, Oil Lines, Wastegate (internal), BOV, Wideband 02 with a/f guage, Boost guage.
Now when you get it all together and start working with it, start with the boost as low as possible and tune it, then work up from there. There are lots of good articles online about how to go about tuning air/fuel and timing for turbos, I would suggest that you spend a few hours on Google and do lots of reading.
That's my .03 (Hey, it's because of inflation! OKAY?)
WRRRONG... Brand has nothing to do with turboing, Valve angle, combustion chamber shape are leading issues that make them shitty. Honda heads are worse to turbocharge than a F head from toyota, which is alot better to turbo than the G head if we compare heads together.
Not to mention, neither G,F, or a honda head have cooling channels running close to the exhaust valves, which most turbocharged cars have (to keep valve/head temps at bay).
Modern gasolines dont leave much deposits, unless you're using avgas, which is different in composition as its not meant for cars in the first place.
Thats just lame.
Alright, care to explain how the Honda guys can take a stock D-series (~9:1 CR), or even a B16 (~10.5:1) turbo the hell out of it, throw down some impressive numbers and still drive home? Try that with a 4a/7afe. It'll shit a brick at >15psi. The little 4AFE throws a hissy fit if it didn't have EGR cooling the cylinder temps.
I'm a Toyota fan, but Honda has it over Toyota in the design of modern engines.
its not the head that blows, its the pistons. you're ignorant if you're telling me they do that with stock pistons
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The little 4AFE throws a hissy fit if it didn't have EGR cooling the cylinder temps.
Most turbo 4A-FE's I've seen dont have EGR's and most 4A-FE's over here in europe lack those as stock. So I dont exactly get where you're going with this. This is really pointless.
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