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Originally Posted by cobrajet25
I'd check the wiring first. Normally, a code will only set if there is an open circuit on the sensor itself (like if it is completely burned out). If you are still getting tempurature-variable resistance out of it, then chances are it is alright.
Make DOUBLE SURE that you have good connections at the connector for the sensor. If the connection is bad, then the ECM will think that the sensor is burned out and set the code. You might even try bypassing the connector just to see if that is where your problem is. Disconnect the sensor. Stick pins (like plain straight pins) through the wires on the ECM (harness) side of the connector. Make sure that the pins go through the metal part (middle) of the wires. Then take alligator clips and attach them to the pins. Take the other ends of the clips and touch them to the pins inside the sensor. Turn the car on, and see if your CEL goes out. If it does, then the problem is the connections inside the connector. If not, then it is either the sensor itself or the harness. You might try unplugging your ECM and plugging it back in again to see if the bad connection is at the ECM end of the equation. Good luck. Regards, Aaron
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Thanks for the reply.
I figured my sensor would be okay since I was getting readings from it. And I think my wiring is good also because I put the voltmeter on the plug (going to the ECU) and came back with a reading (a constant 4.94 volts...approx.). So if my wiring is good from the ECU to the plug...then it must be a connection????
I will try your method to make sure the connection is there. I posted about my problem before because my Idle Air Control Valve was acting up. Turns out the IACV is controlled by the readings taken from the Intake Air temp sensor. So I checked for codes (even though the engine light was not on) and came back with the code telling me this circuit was bad.
Could my Intake air temp sensor be bad, but still give me readings? (but just give the wrong ohm readings?)
Thanks for the help