megasquirt IS a standalone..... it's a system you BUILD by hand.... i have my 87 mr2 with an ae101 4agze running on it
megasquirt mainly is a fuel controller for fuel injection..... it is MAP based.... it has a volumetric efficiency input table on it which you set values for, and then it will also change fuel output percentages based on:
acceleration
deceleration
coolant temp
air temp
o2 reading
map reading
rpm
ignition side.... there are many different choices you can make. The easiest and cheapest is to use an early 90's ford EDIS4 ignition setup. It uses a toothed wheel (which you have welded & balanced to your crank pulley) and a hollifax sensor (which you need to make a mounting for on the engine). This setup is also completely controllable.... you can change settings for advance and retard timing via any computer. Software is free.
to buy (in my opinion the best place to get it):
www.glensgarage.com
info:
http://www.bgsoflex.com/megasquirt.html
support board:
http://www.msefi.com/
i opted for the entire kit with casing and the relay board with case... with shipping it came to $216... i then had to buy a laptop (for tuning), which i got on ebay for ~$200 (but i can use for more than just this)... and then needed to buy some bulk wire, a serial to usb adapter and a 15 foot usb cable ($50 together).... ignition stuff i got at a junkyard for around $20, and it cost me $30 to have the trigger wheel mounted and balanced on my pulley...
INCLUDING the laptop, the entire setup was about $516..... mind you, in an ae92 you wouldn't need that long of a USB cable, and if you already have a laptop (and if it has a 9 pin serial input) then you wouldn't need to buy those either..... it could be as little as $300 or less depending on what ignition stuff you use.....
i'll post some more detail pics (as many of them i have lost since my other computer crapped out on me, but i was able to salvage some, but they are on my laptop in the mr2.... and i'm too lazy to go out there & get it).
For ignition you would need (if you go EDIS): the trigger wheel, hollifax sensor & connector, coilpacks from one of the following: JDM 4agze, 7mgte, DSM (that uses DLI), the escort (they're ugly).... not sure what else would work, but those are all proven to work. Wiring for this ignition setup is the following: 2 shielded wires running from hollifax sensor to MS ecu, 2 shielded wires running from MS ecu to edis4 controller, postive/negative/igniton positive run to edis4 controller, the 2 negative outputs to the coilpacks, and an ignition positive to the coilpacks (yes, that's IT). All advance/retarding is done on a laptop/computer
For wiring in the injectors, for a 4 cylinder, you run 2 negatives (1 negative goes to injectors on 1 & 3 cylinders, then 2nd negative goes to injectors on 2 & 4 cylinders). Wire in your TPS (directions online how to find which are which wires), send wiring from coolant and air temp sensors to the relay board, positive wires to the injectors from relay board, single wire from the o2 sensor to the relay board. Then postive, negative, and ignition positive wires to the relay board. Off the top of my head that's all i can think of.... there literally are like 13 wires that control the entire setup... it IS that simple.
You keep the wiring for other sensors (you can use your stock harness) that give readouts to the dash (like coolant temp, oil pressure, voltage, speedometer), the only one that gets affected is a tachometer.... you can either use an MSD unit that takes the 2 negative coil wires and converts it to a single negative wire (like most tachs work on), you can build your own for about $10, or we are researching if one of the unused wires on the EDIS4 is a single tach output.
Also, since the 20V has vvt, there are people who have figured out how to control the vvt via an rpm switch output you can setup in MS.... i'll see how that goes on my friends mr2. Right now we just need to concentrate on getting it built, getting all the toyota crap out of the engine bay, and getting it to start.
Toyota stuff you WILL NOT NEED, be it from the 20V or whatever:
afm
ignitor
distributor (you can just fill the hole with a freeze plug)
map sensor (if that engine uses one, in your case no)
ecu
coil
injector resistor pack