This has a month in a lil unused "shop" filled with lots of shit. Me, 2 friends and my beloved mechanic do the work. Mech does the hard stuff 'cuase we're all 18 and younger.
The car will run in a week or two...still need mad underdash wiring work and who knows what else will come up. Waterlines are already finished but dont show in pics..i'm using an ae82 radiator so one of the hoses run ontop of the headers (not there yet) and the otherone from under close to the strut tower!! fuel lines/walbro pump = ok, tranny/20v = OK...wateva look at the pics!
1Pic = 1000words...this first two are worth 3000 a peace!!
This is the solution to ALL POWER STEERING PROBLEMS...by me btw...THANKS!!
the secret is removing the 20v A/C and putting a nut under the tensioner pulley screw so you change the direction of the tension
Original ae101 fusebox already connected/wired to harness!!
For all those interested i sell full 20v engine sets for a Co in cali...are his engines:
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"Charles Xavier, from X-MAN tried reading Jack Bauer's mind once and now he's on a wheelchair"
99 A 3.2TL Nav | 88 332is [rip] | 88 332is ; ]
86 Ae86 20v, trd susp&lsd [sold]
under "belt magic" your belt is run incorrectly.... it should just run between the 2 pulleys and have the tensioner pushing against the belt, not run around it..... there's a high risk of it slipping off of the tensioner
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1) 2004 IS300 Manual/LSD/Sportdesign 2) 2010 Corolla S 5 speed 3) 1986 MR2 "MK1.22" 5sfe/s54 swap 3) 1995 Ford Explorer 4x4, TT/AAL/custom shackle lift, 31"s
the tensioner IS pushing against it...pretty damm hard too. i reversed the direction of the tensioner pulley by putting a nut (actually 2 for security) on the screw...i couln't find a belt short enough to run a belt directly from the crank pulley to the p/s pulley
maybe i didnt understand you right...tell me
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"Charles Xavier, from X-MAN tried reading Jack Bauer's mind once and now he's on a wheelchair"
99 A 3.2TL Nav | 88 332is [rip] | 88 332is ; ]
86 Ae86 20v, trd susp&lsd [sold]
Aww man.. that looks like crap! that engine doesn't look good on a RWD car... I suggest you take it off and give it to me so I can put it where it really belongs... a FWD AE car.
Looks pretty good so far.. hope you get it going soon so we can see it in action.
yeah yeah, you got my thread closed for fighting with micro_ about the firewall solution...sure as hell beats spending 500+ on a moving kit...plus i can actually take the dizzy cap off from the inside no prob
wont affect the integrity of the car a because of my strut bar (not shown) also have a rear strut that i'll be welding by the rear strut s and an underbody strut by where the rear seats are.
looking for tips (material) on blocking/closing the firewall hole.
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"Charles Xavier, from X-MAN tried reading Jack Bauer's mind once and now he's on a wheelchair"
99 A 3.2TL Nav | 88 332is [rip] | 88 332is ; ]
86 Ae86 20v, trd susp&lsd [sold]
or with the engine out you could have cut the hole, then used some bent aluminum, riveted that in, then painted over it.... that woulda been clean looking
the tensioner is supposed to push against the non ribbed side of the belt...... there are no guides on the tensioner to hold that belt in place
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1) 2004 IS300 Manual/LSD/Sportdesign 2) 2010 Corolla S 5 speed 3) 1986 MR2 "MK1.22" 5sfe/s54 swap 3) 1995 Ford Explorer 4x4, TT/AAL/custom shackle lift, 31"s
yeah yeah, you got my thread closed for fighting with micro_ about the firewall solution...sure as hell beats spending 500+ on a moving kit...plus i can actually take the dizzy cap off from the inside no prob
wont affect the integrity of the car a because of my strut bar (not shown) also have a rear strut that i'll be welding by the rear strut s and an underbody strut by where the rear seats are.
Yeah thats what they claim. I'd just rather not hack up my car if I was doing that kind of swap, but I guess thats everyones choice. I'd fabricate the distributor to the other side or I'd fabricate a part for the firewall, weld it in, paint it and rustproof it. Sure as heck you'd get shit over here if you attempted inspection with a hole in the firewall.
good stuff, but i agree with flashmn, i try to cut or weld to my chassis the least possible:
1) that is an inivitation to rust.
2) i believe you should try to do what u can without modifying the chassis, i have custom mounts and stuff like that.
I myself am so against cutting the chassis, i have really been thinking of how to fit the oem strut bar to my EE90 (i have the punch on the firewall, but the holes) i am more concerned about welding the nuts then drilling the holes - at the end i got a solution regarding how not to weld the bolts and not compramise drastically strenght.
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You shouldn’t drive for the thrill, but for the pleasure of tasting the control…
etxxz... looking good man. about the firewall cover, just make a box the covers the hole then put 4 screws and make a gasket for it so it won't leak in case something happens.
btw, don't listen to the critics.. most of them are just jealous of you coz you have a good motor in your car and they're still stuck with the preformance-wannabe-economy motor. and one more thing, don't you realize that everyone that makes a lot of comments about "hack jobs" are driving FF? what do they know about how hard it is to drop a FF motor on an FR anyways.
__________________ 1982 Toyota Starlet (SP61) boosted since 2007
everyone that makes a lot of comments about "hack jobs" are driving FF? what do they know about how hard it is to drop a FF motor on an FR anyways.
I dont see how that correlates with the fact that we're critisizing over hacking firewalls. I'd buy or make my own part to relocate the distributor, or use distributorless ignition. Its not hard, its just means some spenditures, but its up to you what you think is better, relocate the distributor or hack your firewall and degrade the value of your car.
oh and btw, I'm not jealous that I have an "economy motor"
btw, don't listen to the critics.. most of them are just jealous of you coz you have a good motor in your car and they're still stuck with the preformance-wannabe-economy motor. and one more thing, don't you realize that everyone that makes a lot of comments about "hack jobs" are driving FF? what do they know about how hard it is to drop a FF motor on an FR anyways.
Dude, i agree with flashmn, i am an FR fan myself, but it doesnt mean it is ok to cut up a firewall. Besides, i (and so did the others) just shared our own personal views and opinions or suggestions to how we would have done it ourself. In engineering you have to always accept a different idea and see why did someone else think about doing it differently so that you might improve your own design....
but we'll just stick to your idea dude.... 'ignore the critics' :P
etxxz: Anyway - keep us informed with the project, would like to know how a RWD car with the 20v performes
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You shouldn’t drive for the thrill, but for the pleasure of tasting the control…
thanks for the support...i'm going to the shop (more like a tool dump) and do some work later today and *i'll be taking pic requests*. Flashmn what you say makes a lot of sense, but understand i lack $$...sort off...
it should be up and running in less than two weeks...this is what i said a month ago! in any case, the firewall is cut and i'll be covering it up like Micro_ said, good idea btw!
I'm wondering what the outcome would be if you put Flashman and Micro_ in the same room.
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"Charles Xavier, from X-MAN tried reading Jack Bauer's mind once and now he's on a wheelchair"
99 A 3.2TL Nav | 88 332is [rip] | 88 332is ; ]
86 Ae86 20v, trd susp&lsd [sold]
btw, don't listen to the critics.. most of them are just jealous of you coz you have a good motor in your car and they're still stuck with the preformance-wannabe-economy motor.
i would rather have a nice n/a smallport and a 4agze.... oh wait, i DO
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1) 2004 IS300 Manual/LSD/Sportdesign 2) 2010 Corolla S 5 speed 3) 1986 MR2 "MK1.22" 5sfe/s54 swap 3) 1995 Ford Explorer 4x4, TT/AAL/custom shackle lift, 31"s
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