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I had to do it on my 1998 Corolla. Basically, you have to take-off most of the trim in the front of the car. So the lower trim panels on both the driver and passenger sides have to be taken off, as they hold the centre trim panel ( the panel with the shifter, between the driver and passenger seat ). To take-off the lower passenger trim panel, you'll ofcourse have to take the glove compartment out, and also some small trim pieces on the sides. There also some small trim pieces that you'll have to take out for the driver's side.
Now the centre trim panel is not held up on the sides, but all the stuff in the centre trim panel has to be taken out ( i.e. stereo, ashtray & lighter, little storage box, and ofcourse the heater/cooler knobs ). And don't forget to take off the little trim plate that's around the shifter.
You're almost there, the centre trim panel is also latched and screwed along with the centre arm-rest, so you'll have to remove the arm-rest as well. Un-latching these two pieces was not that easy.
Now you're ready to take out the centre panel. Once the panel is off, you can see the bulb from the driver's side, below the shifter. Make sure to save the screws and bolts, and note down the exact order for taking them off.
I would'nt open it all just for the bulb, but because I was souping up my stereo wiring and installing an alarm starter, I had to remove the trim pieces anyway.
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