I just got new 15" rims and new tires for my 2001 corolla. I got them at sears auto center where they were mounted and balanced. I noticed the steering wheel started started shaking violently when I got up to about 30 mph. I took it back and they told me they would have to order some hubcentric rings for the wheels. I they called me 3 days later and had me come in to install the rings. They installed the rings but I still get a shake at around 60 mph. It's not as violent as before but it's pretty annoying. I'm taking it back today to see what they can do but I'd appreciate any ideas or similar experiences you guys might have. I don't trust sears at the moment. I'm getting a vibe from the sears auto employees that tells me they are not that excited to do thier job. To qoute one sears employee on the phone: (Who knows? I don't i'm not a mechanic, you'll have to bring it in) I'd appreciate any insight. Thanks.
Tell me about it. I couldn't believe it either. Like I said I don't trust them. I would go somewhere else but I don't wan't to pay for something that's covered under thier warranty if I don't have to. so I'll let them check it out first. I'm going to my local Mieneke to get an oil change today so i'll ask them what they think the problem is before I go to sears this afternoon.
well, for me, i had this tire shop balanced it 3 times last year until i had no vibrations at all...
then this year, i mounted it on after balancing, it had no vibrations also... then I told it into dealership did a major service and now, after balancing its still shakes, with hub rings, it still shakes, but less..... my car is a bit weird, but some times shakes, so times don't..... i don't know why.
at 100km/hr no shaking...
at 110km/hr shaking 70% of the time
at 120+km/hr, no more shaking...
at 140km/hr, it starts again, but thats normal for my car even on stock 14s...
i switched my rims from oem to 15's, i had 16's and now on 17's
never did an alignment once b/c it wasnt necessary
this did occur to me once or twice
i remedied the problem by just reinstalling my wheels again i.e taking them off, then putting them back on EVENLY equal amount of torque on the nuts
i need an alignment right now though b/c i lowered my car w/ eibach prokit
well... my prokit is coming soon... so alignment will be done again and hope that will solve the problem...
and yes, i have a torque wrench... and i reinstalled and reinstalled..........never used to have this problem until after the dealer touched it. they suck
I had a similar problem and what it turned out to be was they warped the rotors and drums by over tourque on the lugs. they lied and said they torqued the wheels to 70 but at another shop they discovered the wheels were actually torqued to 115-120 which would warp anything! so I had to get the rotors and drums machined for $75 but now I have no more vibration. I was having it around 60+mph right after the repair but never before then.
alignment doesnt help with vibration btw. all that does is keep your car centered in the lane and prevents it from leaning left or right. if your car doesnt do that with the old wheels it wont do it with the new wheels. usually vibration comes from bent rims, uneven tire tread, tire bubbles or warped rotors/drums. in your case it sounds like warped rotors/drums caused from over torque. if you hadnt removed the wheels already I'd said check the torque on your wheels to confirm they warped them and get them to machine your rotors/drums without cost.
what Im saying is its too late now to prove they overtorqued the lugs since youve taken them off already. you likely need to get your rotors/drums machined now. why I said you shouldve checked the torque beforehand is because if they were overtorqued them thats proof that they:
1.are responsible for warped rotors/drums that are causing vibration you didnt have before their repairs and
2: are responsible for paying those repair charges, not you.
now since youve taken the wheels off and cant prove at what specific torque they warped your rotors/drums, you will have to pay for machining them because they will do whatever they can to cover their A and likely claim "youre imagining the damages" to get out of paying it like many people have experienced including me.
discount tire machined my rotors/drums for $75 and did a great job.
you could find cheaper labor elsewhere but if you choose to do so then stay there and watch them work on it to make sure they dont tear your car up. if they wont use a torque bar with thin sockets to your specific wheel requirement then dont use them just leave and find someone that will or else your wheels will get scraped from their thick sockets and them being in too much of a hurry to get the lugs off scraping the wheels with the out of control impact wrench and then over tightening the lugs warping everything as happened to me.
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