"totaled" AE-92 - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums

Lord_Anarchy · 09-02-2005, 10:51 AM

What's up guys? I just had a quick question and need some opinions. My old '89 4A-F 'Rolla got hit in the front left corner which pushed it towards a curb. The other guy was at fault so insurance took it from there. The damage was estimated at 1400 bucks because of a bent lower control arm, plastic apron, and bent engine mount. My question is: How feaible is it to fix this car myself? They offer a 1g and they keep the car or 840 if I want cash and car. I choose the car 'cuz I can't part with that thing. So, what's the total cost of the mount and control arm and is anything hard to fix? I'm mechanically inclined but I will be making this a wrench monkey weekend with some buddies so it's going to be fixed one way or another. Is there other damage that can be present? CV Joint?

Thanks for your help

Gotta go get the 'rolla now... so.. laterz.

P.S. How hard is an engine swap to a 4AGE block? Any other things that need to be changed since this thing is a carb going to EFI?

Flashmn · 09-02-2005, 11:48 AM

Depends on how its bent, you might need to use an autorobot on it.

Lord_Anarchy · 09-02-2005, 12:17 PM

I just ran by the shop to see it myself. The lower control arm on the passenger front tire is bent upwards (the accident had the tire hit the curb) but the CV, Tie, and shock mount are all fine so it's really just the lower control arm. The apron was damaged on the front left side but nothin' severe. I'm assuming the rim is bent so that'll be purchased. All n all, I guess I'll be needing a new control arm. What's the retail for one of those?

Tommy · 09-02-2005, 12:36 PM

screw retail, hit a junk yard and get one. if thats really all the damage, thats what id do and pocket the change.

karugs · 09-02-2005, 12:40 PM

Make sure the frame is not bent. An engine mount bending is a red flag.

***REN69*** · 09-02-2005, 07:28 PM

yeah... I wouldn't keep it if I was you.. maybe to sell for parts but not to drive it.

Damemorder · 09-02-2005, 08:37 PM

I'd keep it... Get a factory manual, Most of them have measurements for the body. Within 10mm is good enough.

I actually bought my Bonneville wrecked too, I put a hood, headlight, fender, and about 20 hours into fixing it. I'm 1mm too low, 2mm too far in and 1mm too far back from what the car left the factory at. I say it's close enough. I only used a chain, a cheap arc welder, and a magnolia tree. You can fix it.

Flashmn · 09-03-2005, 02:57 AM

Quote:

Get a factory manual, Most of them have measurements for the body. Within 10mm is good enough

I was taught that tolerance is 3mm in autobody repairs, not 10mm, 10mm is still a banana.

***REN69*** · 09-03-2005, 07:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lord_Anarchy

P.S. How hard is an engine swap to a 4AGE block? Any other things that need to be changed since this thing is a carb going to EFI?

You're better off swapping the whole motor, you'll need motor and harness, ecu, transmission (C52 as opposed to C50 on your SR5) probably an upgrade of your fuel system (fuel pump, fuel lines), and upgrade to GTS front suspension

ZXT · 09-05-2005, 04:33 AM

Yeah If I were you I'll put in a whole engine, maybe a 4AGZE.

dirt666 · 09-05-2005, 03:01 PM

Guarranteed if your control arm is toast, then the frame is fucked also. If you fix it, do me favor and keep it off the roads I drive on

....this is why we need to have safety checks. To prevent some no mind from driving his shitbox down the road veering into oncoming traffic after it's been glued back together..........

nofuturefilmer · 09-05-2005, 10:27 PM

ok changeing the control arm is no problem its a matter of taking off the wheel strut tower tie rod strut bar raidial bar i believe its called and the control arm bolt