1982 Corolla SR-5 1.8L 3TC TE72 carburetor - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums


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Old 09-22-2005, 09:36 PM   #1 (permalink)
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4th Generation 1982 Corolla SR-5 1.8L 3TC TE72 carburetor

So, I've got a pretty good little beast sitting in my drive way. The engine, when started, yells promises of much improved performance from the carburetor cleaning and refitting. There's just one problem.

The throttle seems to be stuck on, it "idles" at ~3000 RPM. If I push down on the throttle assy. manually, it returns to its normal idle speed. However, the least tap on the pedal returns it to 3k. Further depressing the accellerator pedal (or pulling on the cable) results in normal operation. Now, here's the really annoying (to me, anyway) bits:

The rebuild kit I bought does not contain a diagram of the carb I actually have. Some of the major features are similar, but in different positions or orientations on the carb itself. some are absent, and there are bits on it that are not in the diagram. (Forgive me, this is my first time ever doing my own work.)

Some information about the car:
1982 Corolla SR-5, two-door, 3T-C 1.8L engine (I read elsewhere here that this is actually a hemi engine and has lots of hidden potential) and a carb model number 21100-28200. According to the tag on it. Here's where things get weird:

The carb apperantly gave the previous owner fits. I doubt a licensed tech did the work on it that I've seen evidence of, but here's some of the stuff that was done wrong, or not done at all:

The accellerator pump arm is completely disconnected. (Things seem to run fine in spite of this. Why?) The assembly is present, however, before I reconnect it I will be disassembling the carb again to more fully replace parts in that pump chamber because.. Well, the spring looked like it had /rusted/. You get the idea. I could not get the check ball retainer or the steel ball itself out. I'm not willing to pump that cruft into my engine.

The power jet attatchment, while attatched with the rod, was /upside down/ and the upper "plate valve" (I am unable to find an exploded diagram which labels this part) was jammed open because of this.

Plus, the carb was identified as a model number 28150 by a toyota dealership technician. anyone with a catalogue can tell you there is no such carburator. The tag on the carburetor identifies it as a 28200. I have yet to find an exploded diagram which fully matches this carb; however I've not yet been able to obtain haynes andor/chiltons manuals and see what they contain.

Anyone have any information which may pertain to this kind of problem? I suspect that there may have been something knocked askew during my work on the carb; however; without a more definitive answer on the tolerances and factory settings for the various needles and such than the diagram I have now which may not even apply to this carb, I am reluctant to go futzing any more with things I do not understand.

Any wrong use of terminology may be blamed on the auto repair reference center, and/or library access of EBSCOhost database errors. I am, of course, mostly infallible. heh, right.

Last edited by shadowsun; 09-23-2005 at 01:33 AM.
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Old 09-23-2005, 06:47 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Does it stay at 3000 rpm all the time or only during warm up?
It might be the fast idle linkage. There is a weighted cam on the lhs where the throttle cable hooks up. Test with the engine off, the cam should be able to move freely with throttle cracked open, otherwise the fast idle kicks in. Without the throttle cracked open the cam engages the stepped ramp and locks in. Spray with carb cleaner to free it up.
So when you flip it up it should fall back down.


Also try at this more model specific site.

http://www.toyota3tc.com

Also never leave you ignition ON without the engine running. More than 5-10 minutes and
you fry your igniter. ACC OK , ON never if possible.


h3tc

Last edited by Hemi3TC; 09-23-2005 at 06:52 PM.
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Old 09-23-2005, 10:47 PM   #3 (permalink)
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It seems that on the other side of the carb is the screw that adjusts the throttle rest position. The throttle wasn't letting out enough for the carb to ever go into idle mode. I'm not sure it is even now; but as of now I know essentially jack about tuning a carburetor. Something I plan on remedying tonight; I need to get the carb working properly and see if any of my other problems go away.

If the front O ring in the master brake cylinder goes, is it possible for the brake system to basically bypass itself and feed back into the resovior without leaking anywhere? I've got a very strange intermittent problem.

Also the clutch sometimes fails to entirely disengage the transmission; other times it works fine. After I get the carb tuned decently I plan on bleeding out the brake lines to make sure there's no air in them... But I doubt that would explain why the brake pedal will sink down to basically the floor two or three times in a row slowly. but work fine other times. It worries me.

Suggestions/diagnostic expertise appreciated, I may be clueful, but I'm still an idiot nuub to this.
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