Quote:
|
Originally Posted by toyomoho
The knock sensor can be tested with an ohmmeter. It should not have electrical continuity.
|
what he said...
but to get them out, unfortunately, you have to go further than removing the intake plenum. you in fact have to remove the intake manifold and then you'll see one sensor on the rear of each bank of the engine
first check the wiring to see if there are any frays, cuts, etc. and also check the knock sensor continuity.
if one of them is in fact blown, then you can always splice and rewire both signal wires to one sensor on one bank to keep the ecu happy
and this is something that you will most likely want to have fixed before going for emissions testing because it DOES effect the way your car drives. when the knock sensors are either sensing knock and retarding timing, or doing the same thing when the CEL is on, your car is running extremely rich and (from my own experience and dyno results) the car is in fact losing almost 20whp. the retard may not be as great with the 3vz's obdI computer, but there is no doubt that something is being done when the CEL is on due to knock sensors to prevent possible detonation.
