ALRIGHT. IM GOING TO TRY AND MAKE THIS QUICK. MY CAR DOES NOT START. IM NOT JUST SOME STUPID 16 YR OLD WHO IS COMPLETELY OBLIVOUS AND HASNT TRIED ANYTHING. HERES THE STORY. QUICK AND SIMPLY
-BOUGHT CAR ABOUT A YEAR AGO RIGHT BEFORE I TURNED 16
-TURBOED IT MYSELF FOR ABOUT $800
-PROPERLY INSTALLLED BUT HAD A VACCUUM LINE TO MY ENGINE MANAGEMENT KINK AND BLEW A 2 RINGLANDS.
-DISSASSEMBLED ENGINE AND REPLACED ROD BEARINGS, PISTONS, AND RINGS.
-PUT BACK TOGETHER DIDNT START
-DISSASSEMBLED AGAIN THINKING IT WAS AN INSTALLATION ERROR, NOTHING WAS WRONG.
-CAR IS BACK TOGETHER AGAIN.
VALVE TIMING IS RIGHT, THERE IS COMPRESSION. VALVES ARE FINE, FUEL IS TRANSFERRING AS IT SHOULD. SPARK IS THERE FOR SURE. BUT THIS IS WHAT HAPPENS NOW.
WHEN I TURN OVER THE IGNITION THE STARTER MOVES FASTER THAN NORMAL. THIS IS SOMETIMES DO TO NO COMPRESSION, OR OFF VALVE TIMING ETC. THESE ARE COMPONANTS THAT ARE FINE AND HAVE BEEN CHECKED. I CANT THINK OF ANY OTHER REASONS THE STARTER WOULD MOVE SO FAST. ANYWAYS I NEED HELP. I'VE SPENT WEEKS ON MY CAR TRYING TO TROUBLESHOOT MY WAY OUT OF THIS SITUATION. ANY FEEDBACK WOULD BE GREAT. ASK ME ANYTHING. BUT I'VE PROBABLY ALREADY THOUGHT OF IT . THANK YOU. THIS IS MY LAST RESORT...
^First please turn off caplock, no need to shout and its hard to read.
Check timing belt and make sure you install both cams correctly. Make sure the engine is turning over. Maybe starter just spin and not turning engine over at all. Make sure you got fuel and spark. Make sure all ground wires are connected. Especially the one on intake manifold. Without it ECU will get no power.
Well if you have compression, fuel, air and spark, the car would run, even with improper timing. First thing you should do is remove the boost system, can't go running a freshly rebuilt engine under boost, it won't seat properly. Put that back in after 500miles or so.
As for the starter moving faster, it sounds to me that there is no other load on the battery, ie. there is no spark or accessories running. Check the ignitor for spark during cranking.
My final question to you, and don't offecne, it would make sense. After doing the compression testing, DID YOU REPLACE THE SPARK PLUGS ? I know you'd have to be a complete idiot to leave them out, but hell, you're still only human !!
you say your timing is right but it sounds like your 180 degrees out which would cause a no start as well as an abnormal crank speed. i'd start there. i would also check that your injectors are plugged into the right cylinder like you swapped number 1&2 and 3&4 or something like that, just a thought. all of this because you say you have fuel and spark but do you have them at the right time??
alright.. sorry to be so dumb, but there is no compression. i felt some out the top of the spark plug holes when i turned the engine over, but it is like 10psi. I assumed that the air i was feeling was the compression ( this is my first engine rebuild) . so i wrote it in this forum, But i just went through everything again and actually used a compression tester because i couldnt think of anything else to do. and i find out i have like 10 psi of compression in every piston. i am 99% sure it is not a head gasket or piston rings (which are staggered btw), so im guessing its got to be in the valve timing, but the crank pulley was set at TDC (O), while i put the cam pully on the right mark. then put the timing belt on and released the tensioner.. after a few cranks it was still aligned. so the marks are correct. And the cam pully only fits on the intake cam one way because there is a groove for it to fit on.. and im 100% sure the cams are aligned properly. i check them like 10 times. So is there anyway even with the right timing marks aligned the timing can still be off? Or you guys have any other ideas what it could be?
Agree with Pineapple, also did you run it through at least 7 compression strokes? Take the valve cover off and make sure you lined up the correct timing marks on the cams, and make sure you have a service bolt in that sub gear so it doesnt sound like an old volvo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tony the Tiger
I mod my Camry because I am too cheap to go out and buy a real sports car
1992 Camry XLE v6: p&p + 3angle, CAI, y pipe, K-Sport coilovers, 5-speed swap
1996 Eagle Talon TSI AWD: IPT 3700 restall, DSMlink v3, HKS exhaust, ETS street fmic kit
and im 100% sure the cams are aligned properly. i check them like 10 times.
whats a service bolt? is it just to keep the subgear perfectly aligned with its other half? because i didnt do that.
but yea the cams are aligned, and the cam gear only fits on the intake cam one way because there's a notch for the cam to fit on, and the cam pully is aligned with the timing mark every other time the crank hits TDC. so im totally out of ideas.. any tests or anything i can do. Thanks.
Remove the valve cover... bring the #1 to TDC and make sure you don't have a valve open and then see if all marks line up. I had a timing belt split down the center and skip just 1 notch and it would not start period. Chances are if you are off just one notch either way it isn't going to hit. I know you checked 10 times but sometimes you just have to do it again. I am not sure seeing I haven't been under the 2.2's timing cover yet but isn't there a mark on the crankcase to line up the crank pulley too? If you haven't already fixed it, best of luck.
HEY!! SO I GOT THE BITCH RUNNING, BUT I THINK ITS ONLY RUNNING ON ONE CYLINDER, BECAUSE IT WAS IDLING AND RUNNING POOR. THE ENGINE ALSO IS KIND OF SHAKING (WHICH WOULD MAKE SENSE THAT ITS ONLY RUNNING ON ONE CYLINDER.) ALSO I PULLED THE PLUGS AFTER RUNNING IT ABIT, AND 1 3 AND 4 CYL SPARK PLUGS WERE BLACK WITH SOOT, BUT CYL 2 WAS PERFECT. iM THINKIN ITS A FUEL PROBLEM, BUT ANY HELP WOULD BE GREAT.. tHANKS!
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