I've got a 92 Celica 5SFE with the Burien aftermarket turbo kit. I want to cool the intake air without using water/methonal injection (heard it was dangerous). The engine is rebuilt with forged pistons and rings, bearings, modified oil pump, bored engine 40 thou, deck head 20 thou, stronger head bolts, and stronger metal head gasket. My goal is to go faster without detonating. Appropriate spark plug suggestions would be great too. Thanks!
From the sounds of it you might have a little too much compression with the shaved head. I wonder if theres a thicked head gasket you could use for it. Also, you could put a big FMIC on it, that could help.
The guy that rebuilt the engine for me said he put the compression at 8:1, and I did have a different type of head gasket sent to him to put it in. Not sure if it really is at 8:1 though. Do You know any simple way to check compression ratio? What's FMIC by the way?
Compression ratio is determined with the engine apart. Do not know any accurate way to determine the CR with the engine together. Maybe someone else does.
Not to eager to take the engine apart to find out. Since I know that the head was shaved 20 thou, I can get the measurements of the head gasket and find out from that, maybe? I'll just research on how to best fit the piping for an intercooler and what size intercooler will fit my car. That site will help whenever I figure that stuff out, thanks.
You can roughly determine the compression ratio by a simple compression check. You can pull the EFI fuse and hold the throttle fully open. With an E type head like the 5S-FE has with no cams and a compression ratio of low 8's should give you about 140-155psi when the engine is fully warmed up. at roughly 8.7 CR you should see about 160+ psi with that head. At a CR of 9+ you will be looking for numbers close to 170 if not a touch more. These are all guestimates bassed on engines I have built.
__________________ MR2 V6 with an inordinate ammount of boost www.V6MR2.com
OK, I'll give that a try. I did a compression check before but without pulling any fuses and I was only cranking the motor, I wasn't stepping on the gas. At that time it was at 180, but that was also when it was missfiring (fixed now). So - pull the EFI fuse and do the compression check with the gas on the floor?
Yes, it helps to get an accurate mesurement with the throttle fully open. 180psi on an E head is a bit high. I have seen compression ratios as high as 9.8:1 only pull like 170psi on a fresh motor.
I cant give you an exact compression ratio but I can tell you that, on an FE head 180 is a much higher number than you should see if your CR is supposed to be 8.1! With forged pistons you are probably ok as long as are cairfull when you tune the engine. Get a pyrometer just to be safe.
__________________ MR2 V6 with an inordinate ammount of boost www.V6MR2.com
Ok. Just checked out that site you've got posted. Whats an estimated total cost of an MR2-v6 swap project like that by the way? Also, how did you route that intercooler piping and what would I need to be able to do that?
Well, ill be happy to talk with you about the possibility of installing an engine like that into a celica or MR2.
The costs depend directly on how much power you want. If you just want the the V6, I have seen people do it for around 1200 for an NA 3VZ-FE with all stock parts(celica or MR2). Thats about 200hp when its tweaked up a bit. I have also had clients spend over 6K just on parts for some builds. My newest project goal is a 550 whp DD. And I want to get somewhere around 28mpg hwy. It seems quite possible with sequential staged injection.
__________________ MR2 V6 with an inordinate ammount of boost www.V6MR2.com
I used an angle grinder but, a hack saw or other cutting tool should work well since its just alloy for the pipes. Routing intercooler pipes is the least difficult part of a swap.
__________________ MR2 V6 with an inordinate ammount of boost www.V6MR2.com
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