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After further searching, I found my answer(s), posted below for anyone else who runs into same issue:
As tracy said above, when insalling the new timing belt, you should leave the crank pulley at around the "10" mark instead of the "0" mark. then when you release the tensioner pulley and turn the crank, it will pull it forward by about one timing-belt tooth. Make sure you re-check both the crank and CAM's marks again after turning the crank two full revolutions using a socket and a ratchet. The crank's mark should be dead on the "0" mark.
and
I also found it was a bit difficult to keep the timing belt in the right position on the cam AND apply enough tightness to pull it into the right position on the crank. I ended up backing the crank up one tooth with a large screwdriver through the starter hole on the flywheel, then putting the timing belt easily into the right position on both cam and crank, then advancing the crank forward that one tooth into just right position for both. As someone else mentioned, there is a hexed section of the camshaft that you can hold with a large wrench
CRANK - The crank gear has a small (and I mean very small and having to be deliberately looking for it) depression between two of the teeth - on the engine/inner side of it - and this should line up with a small protrusion behind it on the oil pump body. If you are uncertain about whether you see the right markings for the crank (as they are a bit harder to both find) temporarily put the lower timing belt cover back on (just held in place is fine) and temporarily put the crank pulley back on. If you have lined up the small markings I mentioned correctly - the crank pulley notch should be lined up with "0" TDC on the markings of the timing belt cover.
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