I recently have found a 1973 Toyota Celica ST for sale near me, and am thinking about purchasing it.
The owner said he bought it from the original owner who had it garaged since 1981, so it only has 6,533 miles on it. Sounds good right? He said he replaced the carb, got rid of the rust and painted it over in yellow.
He said it starts up perfectly every time, and is willing to let is go for $2,000. Now, this sounds kind of fishy to me, as its really cheap if its in the condition he says. The only two things he said wrong with the vehicle are that the interior light and radio do not work, which I can fix with my friends.
I was wondering a couple things and I figured you all could help me out...
How much HP does the 2.0L I4 engine put out?
Is there anything I should know about the ST (weak tranny, clutch, etc)?
What would be the simplest and cheapest performance mods (exhaust, intake, etc)?
What are some good websites for '73 Celica performance parts?
I'm sure I'll think of a few more questions, but in the mean time here are some images of the car in question...
it looks really nice, but not nice enough for 6k miles. i would offer 1500 and see what happens.
Yes, well technically he said "06533" so it might have been a typo for "96533", which still ain't too shabby. $1,500 you say? I'll offer that after I test drive it on Saturday and see what he thinks of it.
that car can easily sell on fleabay for that amount. out here in cali, it could easily go for more since it's a 73, which automatically gives it a very desired smog excempt status.the sky is the limit for mods, choose any jdm motor and drop it in. a lot of work but well worth it. check out the last issue of import tuner i believe, or sport compact mag. they had a car like yours with a honda s2000 motor, it was superbly bad ass.
Since this car is on the East Coast, what kind of rust on the underbody and wheel wells can I expect? I was told that 70s Toyotas and Datsuns used a lot of aluminum and lightweight steel, which tended to rust easily. This is confirmed by my buddy's 78 280ZX he just picked up.
Since my two mechanically sound buddies are working on their cars (1978 Datsun 280ZX and a 1995 Nissan 200SX w/ a RB20DE-T), they wouldn't have much time to help me install a motor. Oh, and I'm a poor college student.
I was thinking about upgrading components that will give me the most HP for the least amount of money, such as an exhaust. However, I'm not too familiar with automobiles, so any custom fabrication would be WAY beyond me. Which is why I'd need, say an aftermarket exhaust specifically for the car, if they even make 'em that is.
Maybe sometime in the future I'd drop in a new motor, but if I do get the car, I'd just want some simple ways to give it a little more giddy-up.
However, at this point in time it's all speculation. I just don't want to be taken for a fool, so the more tips the better.
Thanks,
Bill
P.S. - Performance mods would come after the stereo (head unit, front speakers, two amps and a 12") anyways, so I'd theoretically have a WHILE.
I'd buy it if I was in your situation (but I'm a first gen Cwelica nut, so I'm biased).
Look at craigslist.com to compare prices.
The '73 has no vices except for those common to all cars of that era.
Rust forms at the bottom of the rear of the front guards (fenders), bottoms of the doors, in the boot (trunk) well and the rear of the boot (trunk) lid.
I live in Western Australia which has Californian type weather, so I won't comment on East coast rust issues.
There are no structural aluminium parts.
There are some aluminium parts on the engine (inlet manifold, starter, bell housing).
The 1968cc 18R-C puts out a miserable 88HP at the flywheel - and that's measured without the drag from the fan, no alternator and no water pump (which is the same way that Detroit cheated back then).
Closer to 50Hp at the wheels.
Upgrade to a Weber 32/26 carburettor by using an adapter plate (search Ebay or have it laser cut from plate steel).
Pacemaker in Australia make a nice exhaust manifold that you can mate to a custom made 2" exhaust pipe.
Every exhaust shop in Australia can custom make the pipe - I'm not sure if US exhaust shops do that.
Real upgrades are:
Get an imported 18R-G or 18R-GU engine.
Drops in with no hassle except modifying the accelerator rods (easy).
I get 160HP from mine but it's modified.
Easier is to find is a US spec 2400cc 22R from a Hilux/Pick-up/Tacoma.
There are some small hassles with bonnet (hood) clearance which can be solved by modifying the crossmember, engine mounts or air cleaner.
You have the option of carburettor or EFI.
Thanks for the info stepho. So basically, this car has little more power than a golf cart stock?
Seeing as how I'll be broke if I decide to purchase this, I won't be doing any mods for some time. But basically, what you're saying is I should swap in a 22R from a Tacoma and begin working from there?
Modifying the car hood sounds a little tricky, but I'll have to research that a little further. So, am I to understand I'd have to make my own custom exhaust, as they don't sell any specific exhausts for the car?
I have a 71' celica st that i'm putting a 22R from a Tacoma in. As for modifying the hood, all i'm probably doing is cutting a hole and putting a scoop over it. It shouldn't be too tricky if you have the tools and the know how.
Yep, about ball park with the golf cart.
But the beauty of owning a Celica (apart from being simply beautiful) is that its large engine bay accepts better engines.
When you eventually have money, it will be willing to oblige.
I know of a '73 Celica with a Lexus V8 with added twin turbos that can spin its tires at 160km/hr.
Yep, the 22R goes in easy as you and Jimi said.
Personally I'd rather lower stuff inside the engine bay instead cutting up the bonnet (hood) but that's entirely up to you.
Ask your local exhaust shop if they can order in a Pacemaker header. http://www.pacemaker.com.au/
The rest will probably have to be custom made but that shouldn't be too expensive.
I'd do the carburettor first and then worry about the exhaust later - get exhaust prices while you are waiting.
Besides, the stock exhaust is okay if the rest of the engine stays stock.
Might be better to upgrade the exhaust after you upgrade to another engine.
Upgrade to a Weber 32/26 carburettor by using an adapter plate (search Ebay or have it laser cut from plate steel).
Do you mean the Weber 32/36? I saw a bunch on eBay for a couple hundred bucks... But couldn't find the "adapter plate", do you know where I could find one online?
The owner said he installed a carb about a year ago, but would the 32/36 be the best upgrade as far as carbs go? How would HP increase could I expect?
Quote:
Originally Posted by JimiRain
As for modifying the hood, all i'm probably doing is cutting a hole and putting a scoop over it. It shouldn't be too tricky if you have the tools and the know how.
I'm one of those people who needs to see a step-by-step visual process of such things, haha.
Quote:
Originally Posted by stepho
Personally I'd rather lower stuff inside the engine bay instead cutting up the bonnet (hood) but that's entirely up to you.
What work would be needed to lower the engine? I'm really a NOVICE to cars, I only really know audio... and just a little at that.
Which brings me to another point. I see the the stock alternator is a mere 45 amps. Since I am an audiophile, I would be upgrading the whole audio system. Do you guys know of any more powerful alternators that would fit int the car?
Also, how do you go about installing a 1 DIN head unit int the car? They don't make any dash kits for it, as far as I am aware of.
Thats a nice car, I'd pick it up and it doesnt hurt to haggle on the price. Its a bit harder to find one of those in Chicago so that price doesnt look to bad IMO.
Thats a nice car, I'd pick it up and it doesnt hurt to haggle on the price. Its a bit harder to find one of those in Chicago so that price doesnt look to bad IMO.
Yeah, if the car is in good condition I'll probably pick it up. I mean, if I pool all my money together that I have now, I only have around $1,300 but maybe we could work something out. Hopefully I could haggle him down a couple hundred bucks... We'll see, haha.
Finding a decent car in the <$2,000 range in good condition is a hard task, so I'll take what I can. I just don't want to end up with another Dodge Neon, or something similar (Cavalier, Civic, etc). Yuck!
Hey guys, I'm just bored and going through hypothetical things right now.
Say I purchase the car... Since I am poor and couldn't put in a 22R right away, this is the order in which I should upgrade. Correct me if I'm wrong.
1) Weber down draft 32/36 DGEV carburetor, breather assembly with K & N washable (reusable) filter element and adapter plate with hardware. Price $490.00 (How much HP will this give me?)
2) Larger amperage alternator. (You guys know any that will fit?)
3) Head unit, speakers, two amps, subwoofer. (You guys know how to install a head unit in this car?)
4) 22R. Should I go EFI or carb'd? If I go I wouldn't even need the 32/36 in the first place, right?
5) Pacemaker exhaust manifold (header) and 2" custom w/ my choice of muffler. =D
Am I missing anything? Help me out with suggestions on what you'd do guys, I could use it. I am an audio nut though, so I need my music.
EDIT: I just noticed something. The 32/36 comes in DGV which works for the 18R but the DGEV works for the 20R. So, if I planned on putting in a 22R at some point I'd have to buy the 32/36 DGEV?
The 32/36 will only give a few HP more at the top end but it will bring the low end up much more.
so it will feel much more responsive.
$490 sounds a bit high, must be for brand new.
In Australia we normally get them second hand from 1985 Ford Falcon's.
I keep forgetting that students live on tiny budgets.
If the plan is to eventually put in a 22R then I would do nothing to the carb and exhaust.
Just make it pretty so that it will look cool even when the golf carts are dragging you off.
When you have enough money saved then put in a 22R.
EFI or carb doesn't matter, whatever comes up first for the right price.
Once you have the 22R then put a new 2" exhaust on.
The 22R headers will be easy to find in America.
The rest of the pipe will probably have to be custom made (like I said before, almost every exhaust shop here in Australia can do that for a reasonable price).
If money is real tight then keep the old exhaust but you will still have to pay for custom work to match the 22R stock header to the old exhaust pipe.
You will have to see an auto electrician about a stronger alternator.
I don't have a radio at all in mine.
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1973 Toyota Celica ST
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