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Old 09-29-2008, 09:39 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Just picked up an '85 Celica GT-S (22RE question)

Hello all,

I just picked up a red 1985 Toyota Celica GT-S 5spd Convertible with 171k miles and I have some concerns regarding the 22R-E.

It has no power at all, not even enough to go up a slight incline at highway speeds. The car can't go over 65 on flatlands.

The engine seems to lobe. It idles like a carburated V8. The timing is set to 12 deg BTDC with the check connector jumpered. It has a new cap, rotor, wires, and spark plugs. The compression on all four cylinders is between 170 and 190 PSI. When I turn the heater on or any accessories at all the engine darn near dies. When I turn the heater on full blast the engine dies no matter how fast I'm going or even moving at all. The plugs have no residue on them at all to indicate anything other than healthy ignition. I cleaned the MAF with MAF sensor cleaner (Since the air filter in it was FILTHY!) and it didn't affect it at all. It doesnt make any noises like the valves are sticking or anything, and I filled it up with Chevron 89 just incase they were sticking. The check engine light is not on and there are no codes stored in the ECU. I put my timing light on all four wires just to make sure there wasn't some kind of misfire, and all four cylinders are firing consistently.

I got the car to drive daily in place of my supra since the supra is getting a built engine and gets the gas mileage of a tundra. And I know these 22re celicas get decent gas mileage in the neighborhood of 30+ MPG, so I would like to get this thing at least capable of making it up the hill in front of my house.

I'm going to be going through it completely tomorrow (too dark now out here in the country), but I want to fix this problem before I go and do all the maintenance that probably hasn't been done in forever.

If anyone has any ideas or a direction I should look in I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks in advance!

Shawn

Last edited by 1988Supradreams; 09-29-2008 at 09:42 PM.
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Old 09-29-2008, 09:59 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Have you check the fuel pressure? Maybe the filter is restricted?

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Old 09-30-2008, 11:18 AM   #3 (permalink)
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I have a fuel pressure tester, but where is the valve to connect the tester to on the 22R-E? Might as well make sure it's the fuel system before I go and start replacing parts.
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1985 Toyota Celica GT-S Convertible 22R-EC/W58 with a 3.9:1 '85 Supra LSD 182k miles
1988 Toyota Supra 7M-GTE/R154 Custom 3" Intake and Exhaust

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Old 09-30-2008, 11:31 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Also I know that there is a little screw that comes up on a valve on the end of the fuel rail (FPR?) The screw doesnt even clear the top of the valve.
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Old 09-30-2008, 05:26 PM   #5 (permalink)
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take the valve cover off and check the cam to crank timing and look down the drivers side of the chain and see if the guide is gone and the chain is eating the side of the timing cover out
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Old 09-30-2008, 06:33 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1988Supradreams View Post
I have a fuel pressure tester, but where is the valve to connect the tester to on the 22R-E? Might as well make sure it's the fuel system before I go and start replacing parts.
You will need adapters to test the fuel pressure, the car doesn't have a Schrader valve to screw onto.

The valve you are referring too is probably the fuel dampener, the screw on the end is the calibration screw set at the factory. Don't touch that.

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Old 09-30-2008, 10:55 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Today:
Replaced fuel filter. It had the original filter on it, and it was plugged.
Replaced whole exhaust system. The cat was 80% plugged, the muffler had holes in it, and the pipe between was cracked, so I just did a 2" cat and 2" cat back exhaust.
Double checked timing, set it to 5 deg with the check connector jumpered.
Replaced plugs, wires, cap, and rotor. The wires looked old and the plugs were autolite, which in my experience has not been good enough for my toyotas. (NGK only!)
Ordered a fuel pump for tomorrow if needed.

Still has the same issue, however with a bit more power. Still not enough to make it up a hill. And.. it still sounds like a lawn mower.

Tomorrow:
Getting the fuel pressure checked by a shop because I don't want to even try to fab up some kind of adaptor for it.
Taking valve cover off and inspecting the whole timing chain.
Backpressure test on the exhaust manifold and headers.

I hope that the fuel pressure test tells me what I wanna know, even though I really dont wanna drop a fuel tank on a car I just bought.

I'll keep you guys posted, and thanks for the tips and advice!
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1988 Toyota Supra 7M-GTE/R154 Custom 3" Intake and Exhaust
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Old 10-01-2008, 11:13 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Today:
Took the valve cover off and inspected the timing chain. It's on the right tooth and there is no wear or damage, the chain is brand new.

Decided to start pulling plug wires and see what happens. Pulled the third cyl, and it ran the same. Pulled the fourth cyl and it ran the same.
I was getting spark to both cyls, so I took a noid light to the 3rd and 4th injector clips. No signal to the third and fourth cyl injectors.

Now I get to chase down a severed wire. At least it's not a fuel pump.

Will keep you guys posted on any further progress.
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Old 10-01-2008, 12:27 PM   #9 (permalink)
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you need a wiring diagram?
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Old 10-01-2008, 01:47 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Yes, a wiring diagram would be awesome.

I am seeing these tees in all of the injector wires. The 1st and 2nd cylinders have a blue wire that tees together going to a two pin connector, and the 3rd and 4th cylinders have a yellow wire that tees together that goes to the other pin in the same connector. In the same pairs there are white wires that are teed together headed for the ECU. Are these tees factory? They have a blue wrap around where they tee.

I pulled the harness out of the car and other than the tees there is only one wire that has me scratching my head. It is a brown wire that is a single wire that has another wire that goes around the outiside of it. Like a wire inside of a wire, what's the deal with that?
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Old 10-01-2008, 04:04 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Just now:
I cleaned and ohmed the harness.
The injector connectors have no resistance all the way to the ECU connectors on all pins. None of the Injector wires are shorted to any others. Bad ECU?
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Old 10-01-2008, 08:05 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Just now:
Examined a wiring diagram provided to me by a very kind member of TN (Thanks a bunch!) and discovered that the person I bought it from had the resistor pack plugged into a VSV and the FI connector and the VSV connector looped into eachother because they had the same connector.

Drove the car up and down the road, and it drives STRONG (Twice the power one would say).

The check engine light is on and it flashed 12 times (Code 12?). The codes aren't the same as Toyotas with a Diag block so I don't know what it means. Can someone point me to a thread with codes and their meanings?

After dinner:
Changing out all fluids now that it's running right.

Tomorrow:
Pictures!
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Old 10-01-2008, 08:24 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Code 12, Knock sensor?

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Old 10-01-2008, 09:54 PM   #14 (permalink)
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That would explain the loose wire... where is it on the engine? I thought that the green 1 wire connector was the knock sensor?
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Old 10-01-2008, 10:00 PM   #15 (permalink)
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I think it is somewhere by the oil filter, but I can't be 100% on that. Don't know what the wiring color is on that. Is it a round connector?

N.E.O.

Last edited by new echo owner; 10-01-2008 at 10:27 PM.
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