1990 celica GT,spark wires/plugs/tube issues, help please

[concealer404]

Grab a good longblock out of your local junkyard. 5sfe came in like.... EVERYTHING toyota made in the 90s. Should be able to walk out with one for $300 or under. Just re-use all your sensors and wiring.

Don't both with the 3sfe. It's trash.

[Pineapple]

Don't worry about damaging the tube. Its just a cover to separate spark plug from oil in head. As long as you don't damage the threads. My tubes got mark up pretty good by the pipe wrench.

As for melted wire, it could be from jumping sparks due to water in the tube. Age would do that too. Get new wire and start the engine before you look for replacement. Do compression and leak down test to make sure headgasket is not leaking.

5S-FE is one tough engine. Mine was seating outside under a tree for 6 months through the winter. Fire right up when I put it back in the car.

[new echo owner]

Originally Posted by Freshnicity

Well heres another update.

I havent ran any of the following tests:

Compression: engine needs to be at normal operating temp. for this, and the car wont start.hasnt started in about 6-7 months that im aware of.

Leak Down Test: not sure what this will even accomplish, but im going to try it anyway.

Im going to assume the worst case scenario, an that it needs a new engine. My local attarco has the same 5S-FE that is in it now, for $725 plus tax. It also has a 3S-FE for $399 plus tax.

....

All those test are meant to give you some general idea about the health of the engine without actually getting it running.

Warming up the engine for the compression test would be good, but not really necessary in this case, since you just want to get a rough idea where you are at. If you think the engine might have over heated at one point and was hot enough to melt the wires, then it might also have done some damage internally to the rings and pistons, which might show up in a compression test if the rings a re stuck to the piston due to overheated.

A leak down test is where you put a metered amount of air into the cylinder with the piston at TDC and hopefully all the valves are closed. If there is any leakage, you might be able to hear the air escaping from whatever is leaking. Of course, even with a perfectly running engine there would be some leakage, what you are interested in is how much.

If it comes down to having to replace the engine, I would suggest sticking with the 5S-FE. I am not much into modes, so I really can't give you any suggestion there. However, if you are going to supercharge it later, you don't really want an engine with too high compression, unless you plan on having some type of setup to control the pre-ignition problem that you may encounter.

N.E.O.

[Freshnicity]

Originally Posted by new echo owner

All those test are meant to give you some general idea about the health of the engine without actually getting it running.

Warming up the engine for the compression test would be good, but not really necessary in this case, since you just want to get a rough idea where you are at. If you think the engine might have over heated at one point and was hot enough to melt the wires, then it might also have done some damage internally to the rings and pistons, which might show up in a compression test if the rings a re stuck to the piston due to overheated.

A leak down test is where you put a metered amount of air into the cylinder with the piston at TDC and hopefully all the valves are closed. If there is any leakage, you might be able to hear the air escaping from whatever is leaking. Of course, even with a perfectly running engine there would be some leakage, what you are interested in is how much.

If it comes down to having to replace the engine, I would suggest sticking with the 5S-FE. I am not much into modes, so I really can't give you any suggestion there. However, if you are going to supercharge it later, you don't really want an engine with too high compression, unless you plan on having some type of setup to control the pre-ignition problem that you may encounter.

N.E.O.

Word.

Anyone know about putting a head from a 3S-GTE on my 5S-FE, my 5s is a 90, so if i got a 2nd-3rd Gen 3sgte could i simply swap the head from the 3s onto my 5s??? Would i need a 3s ECU or no??

If not, then what can i do to this 5s-fe to tune it to a top level performance engine, before a turbo is placed in.

[PittsburghCeli]

http://www.celicatech.com/93rmsour/1...celica_bgb.php

http://www.onlinefreeebooks.net/auto...anual-pdf.html

Plus AutoZone.com

There are links to three 5th gen manuals above. That info might be in there, as far as the bolt patterns and shape of things.

I am still wondering about the top level peformance parts that would need upgraded so the engine can take a turbo. Probably all of the engine seals/gaskets, valves, bearings, cams, basically a complete rebuild with the best parts that have higher tolerances, then turbo. I am guessing that a turbo is just an exhaust gas sucker? Anyone?