Adjust Timing w/out Removing Timing Belt

[christine_lives!]

For the 5sFE:
I remember reading about adjusting your timing (not just advancing or retarding timing) to TDC without having to remove the belt and all the belt housings. Basically it said you could remove the valve cover and reset the camshaft timing to TDC and tighten it to correspond to the crank TDC. Anyone know what I am talking about. I really don't have the place or space to do a full timing belt job. And besides, i need to redo the valve cover seal anyways and check out the valves and whatnot.

[toyomoho]

Reset to TDC?

The cams and crank physical timing are set when the belt is installed, there should be no reason to adjust this. There is only one way to setup this relationship and not benefit from changing it.

If you want to change the belt you will need to remove the crank pulley and timing cover.

If your talking about setting the ign timing thought the 5S-FE had a 10 degree BTC setting.

[christine_lives!]

I guess thats my point. I don't want to remove the lower cover, the pulley or the belt. I just wish I could remember where I read about resetting the timing by taking off the valve cover.

[concealer404]

Yeah.... jump your T1 and E1, and put a timing light on that thing. Set to 10btdc using the distributor.

[christine_lives!]

That would only change the ignition timing. Wouldn't my compression still be off?

[concealer404]

Originally Posted by christine_lives!

That would only change the ignition timing. Wouldn't my compression still be off?

Probably.

I didn't understand your question.

Tell us exactly what you're trying to do, what your problem is, and we'll go from there.

[christine_lives!]

I did some minor maintenance when I was home in a garage a few weeks ago:
Timing Belt
Water Pump
Oil Pump
Oil + Tranny Pans

Due to a personal matter, I had to throw it together and book it back to Cincinnati. Picture landlord throwing out your apartment. It ran fine initially, and then the throttle became bogged down. My distributor had a crack in it, thanks in part to my nosey father. The harder it rained, the less response I got. Replaced that, and its really dry outside now. Still no response, running rich, feels like lack of compression when its driven, idles alright until it gets put into a gear. Drops low RPM then normalizes, hasnt stalled.

I'm guessing I am off a tooth or two on the belt. And I remember reading once about adjusting to TDC with the belt on by opening the valve cover. I really dont have the proper place to remove everything to get at the belt. So I'm trying to find a better solution for the time being.

I have to go home this weekend (I have other means of transportation). I suppose I could just tweak the distributor timing a bit with a gun and drive it back. Unless of course someone knows what I am talking about when I suggest cam timing can be adjusted with the belt on. Thanks.

[Pineapple]

If it was fine when you first put the belt on, the belt could jumped a teeth or two.
Remove top belt cover, turn the crank to 0 deg (match timing mark). Check cam pulley to be at top (small hole on pulley at top of engine, remember engine seat at an angle). If its way off, turn crank another full rev to 0, check again. If you're off, pull belt off cam pulley or pull the pulley out. Use the pulley to turn cam to 0, reinstall pulley and belt. Turn crank a few rev and check again.
The problem is, you might have tensioner too lose so it'll happen again.

[camryvibe]

If "it ran fine initially" then it's hard to see how the timing belt could have been off by a tooth or two. And it seems unlikely that the belt later slipped unless there's something seriously wrong with its tension. Seems more likely that there's an issue with the ignition timing or possibly something else in the ignition system.

[concealer404]

Originally Posted by camryvibe

If "it ran fine initially" then it's hard to see how the timing belt could have been off by a tooth or two. And it seems unlikely that the belt later slipped unless there's something seriously wrong with its tension. Seems more likely that there's an issue with the ignition timing or possibly something else in the ignition system.

Classic case of one of 3 things:

1) ignition problem
2) timing belt slipped via loose tensioner
3) vaccuum leak.

Timing belts slip all the time. But on the other hand... i would think it would KEEP slipping, so i don't think it's that.

I'm sure it's probably ignition timing, because you did mention that you replaced your whole distributor.

[christine_lives!]

The gas mileage is completely deplorable, as it is getting roughly 15-18 mpg. Instead of the usual 28-30mpg.
Started cold, the exhaust blows a wonderfully rich mixture of gas fumes indicating the poor burn. I'll have some time, finally, to look at it again tomorrow afternoon. Architecture school + love of cars + street parking, is not a good equation. I hope it doesn't snow!

[concealer404]

Replaced your O2 sensor yet?

[christine_lives!]

The O2 sensor was replaced in December with a Bosch unit. I did clean and replace the sensors (2 to the left of the BVSV and the BVSV) on the cooling out from the block. They were off my old 92' motor, when I had the 93' 5SFE put in. From my understanding the cooling sensors were the exact same on both motors.

[toyomoho]

If you have a timing gun check timing using the method above.

If the timing is set at 10 degress or you need only more the distributor slightly to adjust the belt location should be OK.

Have you checked the ign coil, these often crack.

A bad coolant sensor can cause problems as the ECU never knows the coolant has warmed up.

[christine_lives!]

Would a bad coolant sensor cause that much poor performance? The temp gauge warms up like normal.