Quote:
Originally Posted by Pineapple
I know all the reasons not to use crossdrill. They don't crack just by using them. They crack due to sudden temp change. Like hot brake and cold water. Talk to people who autocross all the time. A few had posted on the argument before. They'll take solid rotor not because of less warp or crack but for higher heat capacity. They've also said there were no more cracking crossdrill rotor then other.
I don't think you need UV dye to see the cracks. Brake dust will stuck in the crack to make them look black.
Properly break in new pad and rotor will prevent cracking due to heat stress.
Also rotor "warp" is a myth. Its either improper installation or overheated pad putting melted materail on the rotor causing different thickness.
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I do autocross my car..... in STX class. General consensus there, and on Grassroots Motorsports Magazine forums (official SCCA magazine) is that the drilled rotors are fine for autocross, but for longer runs, a big no no. Autocross guys run them for the weight advantage, as silly as that sounds. For a dual purpose car like mine, i'm not going to take the chance. It sees streets, and it sees track days, and it sees the Tail of the Dragon at least once a year.
The Tail of the Dragon has proven to me that rotor warp DOES exist and is not a myth, as well. But for 95% of rotor "warp" you are correct, it's uneven pad distribution on the rotor.
Humor me and put some UV dye on a brand new drilled rotor sometime, you might be interested as to what you see. Cracked doesn't always mean something big enough to hold brake dust.
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