I'm replacing my front crank seal, and I don't like the looks of the oil pump o-ring and oil seal. The gasket seems okay, however.
My question is this: would it be stupid to try removing the oil pump sprocket and replacing the o-ring under the cover as well as the oil seal on the outer cover without removing the oil pump body? I can't tell how easy it would be to re-install the drive/driven rotors while the pump housing is still attached to the block.
I'm doing the front crank seal, and I have the oil pan supported by the jack, so dropping the oil pan would be a pain...I'm hoping to avoid that if possible.
Many thanks for any suggestions.
--Tim
__________________ 1990 5spd V6 Camry (Still kicking at 393,000km) 1991 Celica GTS -- Pappa needs a 3SGTE...and AWD for all this friggin' snow
Honda my A$$, you just can't kill a Yota...
You can't get the rotor out without taking the pump out. Go to dealer for oil pump gasket and make sure they give you a metal one. You can order a new pump if you want. I believe 98 Camry oil pump is the best choice.
Photo of oil pump:
You only need to remove the top part to change oil pump seal and gasket. The big hole below is the crank seal.
Hey Pineapple, thanks for the reply...however, I think you may have misunderstood my question. I re-read my post and I don't think I worded it clearly enough. Here goes:
I have the crank seal out already. No biggie. I thought that was my only leak, but now when I look behind the oil pump sprocket (the one driven by the timing belt, of course), it looks like that outer oil seal is leaking as well.
To replace this oil pump seal and the o-ring sealing the pump outer body cover (NOT the inner gasket between the pump housing and the block--which is fine), I have to remove the pump sprocket and unbolt the body cover on the pump. I believe I can do this while the pump is bolted to the block, but I want to be sure. I don't want to wreck the drive/driven rotors by removing the sprocket...
In any case, I'll probably just have to give it a try and hope...
__________________ 1990 5spd V6 Camry (Still kicking at 393,000km) 1991 Celica GTS -- Pappa needs a 3SGTE...and AWD for all this friggin' snow
Honda my A$$, you just can't kill a Yota...
Yes you can open the pump without removing the whole assembly. The "cover" was removed in the photo. Use RTV with the o-ring/gasket to get better seal.
Awesome...thanks for the info. It is much appreciated.
When I looked at your pic, I did notice that the cover was off...but it looked like the pump was off the block. My bad...
__________________ 1990 5spd V6 Camry (Still kicking at 393,000km) 1991 Celica GTS -- Pappa needs a 3SGTE...and AWD for all this friggin' snow
Honda my A$$, you just can't kill a Yota...
Last edited by TBayToyotaBoy; 04-14-2009 at 12:36 PM.
Its off the block because its a new 3S-GTE oil pump for my 5S-FE
Higher flow then stock pump. Early 5S-FE pump has just enough flow to keep engine alive.
Interesting, very interesting...just when I'd learned everything there was to know about my 2VZ Camry, I have to start learning about this 5SFE! Back to square one...
__________________ 1990 5spd V6 Camry (Still kicking at 393,000km) 1991 Celica GTS -- Pappa needs a 3SGTE...and AWD for all this friggin' snow
Honda my A$$, you just can't kill a Yota...
My guess would be that the last generation of 5SFE's got a beefier oil pump. Am I right?
__________________ 1990 5spd V6 Camry (Still kicking at 393,000km) 1991 Celica GTS -- Pappa needs a 3SGTE...and AWD for all this friggin' snow
Honda my A$$, you just can't kill a Yota...
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