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Old 06-25-2009, 04:18 PM   #1 (permalink)
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How do I eliminate rear brakes?

I have to get an 89 fixed enough to get it out of my driveway and want to spend as little as possible. Anyone know of a way to bypass the rear brakes? The lines are rusted to crap and I just want to fix it enough for test rides.
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Old 06-25-2009, 05:27 PM   #2 (permalink)
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It will be totally illegal. Unless you don't plan on getting a plate for it. Just think about how much it gonna cost you if you get into an accident.
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Old 06-25-2009, 05:52 PM   #3 (permalink)
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I don't really care, I am selling the car for its motor and this saves someone a tow charge.
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Old 06-25-2009, 06:29 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rojo412 View Post
I don't really care
Same here. Good thing I'm not the buyer.

You should be able to figure it out since you're smart enough to come up with the idea
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Old 06-25-2009, 09:29 PM   #5 (permalink)
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are they locked up or what?
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Old 06-26-2009, 01:06 AM   #6 (permalink)
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All the lines are rusted completely. I'm not sinking any money into this car and I'm selling it for the motor. This is an effort to make this possible without a tow truck needed. I'm amazed no one is willing or able to provide any sort of help.
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Old 06-26-2009, 07:18 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rojo412 View Post
All the lines are rusted completely. I'm not sinking any money into this car and I'm selling it for the motor. This is an effort to make this possible without a tow truck needed. I'm amazed no one is willing or able to provide any sort of help.
plenty of cars have rusted brake lines and the rear brakes work, do the rear brakes work or not? rusted or rusted through with holes? rusted where? are the rear brakes locked up?


we can't help if you don't tell us wtf is wrong.
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Old 06-26-2009, 08:13 AM   #8 (permalink)
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They have rusted away completely, the brake line are no more, THEY HAVE CEASED TO BE! They fell apart, the brake fluid gets shot out of them. It doesn't leak, it pisses! The rust goes from the rear brakes ALLLLLLLLL the way to the firewall and it so bad that NONE of that line can be spliced, patched, rigged, or pieced together. The rear brakes are nonexistent. The fuel lines have rusted away as well, but those can be (and were) fixed with rubber hose.
I'm not trying to make this very difficult. I have a piece of crap car that has a wonderful engine and interior. I am selling said car because I don't need it, can't afford to fix it properly. The job to fix it myself requires a lift and the patience of a saint due to the amount of rusted nuts, neither of which I have. I don't think the car has a catalytic converter either, something I didn't know when I bought it, so passing any inspection is a slim chance anyway. If I can make it roll and stop, the buyer could get it to their location without paying an exorbitant amount to get it towed. This is my goal.
The only lines that aren't completely and utterly useless are inside the engine bay.
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Old 06-26-2009, 08:40 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Find the brake master cylinder.
Find the brake lines leading out of it.
Unbolt them.
Find a bolt the same size and plug the holes.

If it is only the back brakes that are causing trouble, then only plug the brake line closer to the front of the car (the brake line closer to the firewall goes to the front).
Caveat - I'm not familiar with the '89 but this works for the older model Toyotas.

Highly illegal, unsafe, etc but who cares if it is behind a tow truck.
NOT recommended if it is only being towed behind another car with a tow rope (front car stops at stop light, yours doesn't).
But if using a tow truck then you don't need to do anything unless the wheels have seized up.

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Old 06-26-2009, 08:49 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Thank you, I will try that.

For the record, I was in a car that only had fronts just last night. It was safe enough to get around with. It stopped very well, though the front end dived a bit.

This only has to be driven to the place where a) the engine gets removed or b) the brake lines get fixed.
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Old 06-26-2009, 11:08 AM   #11 (permalink)
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pinch the brake lines up before the rusted parts.
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Old 06-26-2009, 12:56 PM   #12 (permalink)
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That didn't work...

Looping a short brake line in place of the rear setup did work and worked well. The car drives and stops. Whoever buys it will be made aware that this is an issue. If they chose to fix it, that's on them. If they are buying it for the low mileage motor, it's a handy-dandy cart to get them home with it.

If they use it as a daily, well, Darwin said it best...
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Old 06-27-2009, 12:36 AM   #13 (permalink)
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If you want scary, I did a one hour endurance race in a Datto 1200 with failed back brakes and front brakes that progressively locked up.
The rain didn't help much.
Did three laps, came in to the pits to release the brake fluid pressure via the MC nipple, topped up the fluid and out again for another 3 laps.
Spent a lot of time sideways.
Came dead set last but still beat all those who dropped out
Turned out to be a bad adjustment on the rear drums not letting the fluid back into the MC on release.

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