Ah, it's the l33t sp34k which is throwing me. You will have to type it out the long way so that fossils like me know what you are talking about.
So I will assume that you have swapped engines before, know plenty about engines in general, know nothing about the 18R and 22R engine in particular, have little cash, want a simple swap and want performance not too far off the All-trac.
The last one is a very big ask given the simple/cheap assumptions.
The 18R-C is a lump.
You can make it go well but only by spending a large amount of money and making it unstreetable.
The 2000cc 18R-G and 18R-GU (anti smog version with cat) is a drop in with a Pacesetter exhaust.
120HP stock.
Add cams and Webers and it gets to 160HP without much drama but gets unstreetable above that (mine is at 160HP and has no power below 3000rpm).
Need to import parts (gasket kits, etc) from Asia/Australia
The 18R-GEU is the same as the 18R-GU but has EFI, larger valves and milder cams.
22R has plenty of torque and is close to a drop in.
Really should have a '75 engine crossmember but people have modded the '71 crossmember and/or mounts to make it fit under the bonnet (hood). It's a taller engine than the 18R but otherwise compatible.
Engine mounts positions are the same up to 1985.
Add a 20R head to raise the compression ration, new cam, new exhaust and you have a stump pulling engine up to 140/160HP beofre it gets unstreetable.
Plenty of parts in the US.
See
www.lcengineering.com for go-fast bits.
See my web page for 20R head stuff
http://members.iinet.net.au/~stepho/eng20r.htm
22R-TE is the turbo version but it is optimised for low down torque.
New cams, new turbo, aftermarket computer and can be made to perform.
I'm not sure if the bottom end will survive at high revs/HP.
Better to ask the truck guys (came in the '87 truck from memory).
20R engine is the same as the 22R but only 2200cc.
For the same work, better to go for a 22R.
All 18R-C/G/GU/GEU, 20R and 22R/22R-TE engines up to 1985 have the same engine mounts and the same gearbox bolt pattern.
You can use either the W50 steel case 5 speed or the newer alloy W55 5 speed.
The alloy box will need a modified gearbox crossmember but takes the same drive shaft.
The A30 (3 speed), A40 (3 speed), A40D (4 speed) auto also fit all those engines and has the same drive shaft.
Gear sticks come up in different places depending on the donor vehicle but there are further options to choose from.
The 1600cc 4A-GZE supercharged engine from the AE86 Sprinter has been done in Malaysia. 5 speed gearbox is hard to find and a bit marginal if you increase the HP but the AE86 auto (compatible with the '71 Celia auto) holds the power well.
The 1600cc 4A-GE 16 valve has less power and isn't worth considering.
The 1600 4A-GE 20 valve has about the same as the supercharged version but the distributor will hit your firewall.
Replace with a crank angle sensor and aftermarket ECU.
Same gearbox sourcing problems as the 4A-GZE.
The early 3S-GE gives modest power but for much the same work you can have the 3S-GTE turbo engine from the all-trac.
From memory, it also has a distributor that hits the firewall but I will have to check that.
If you are lucky then you can find a late model Caldina 3S-GE with 6 speed sequential RWD gearbox at a Japanese importer.
A friend did this but it was rather involved.
Need to convert to rack and pinion from a AE70/86 Corolla.
Straight 6 engines are to be avoided.
They can be done but they are complex and usually put too much weight in front of the front wheels - which kills handling.
V6 and V8 engines have trouble clearing the exhaust and steering box.
Need to convert to rack and pinion from a AE70/86 Corolla.
V8 engine will need the firewall recessed.
Source engines from the Tacoma/Truck to get a RWD gearbox.
The Lexus V8 comes in auto only but Dellow in Australia have an (expensive) adapter for a manual gearbox.
See the link for Mick's V8 to get the general idea.
The RZ 4 cylinder engines from the Tacoma/Truck will probably work but I am not familiar with them.
The 18R/22R engines will all clear the sump and gearbox.
I will have to check if the other engines will clear your RA21 engine crossmember.
You may need to get a TA22 crossmember from Australia, which are getting quite rare now.
the TA22 crossmember is a direct fit but bends differently to clear the 2T engine's sump.
Many swaps use the AE70 or AE86 crossmember with rack and pinion steering but that requires further mods.
And of course you should be considering brake and suspension upgrades to go with all of this.
Whiteline make front and rear good anti-roll bars.
Noltec make good strut top camber adjusters.
Kings Springs and make good lowered springs.
The stock diff will handle to about 160HP (mine is stock) but above that you will need to upgrade to something bigger from a Supra or Hilux/Truck (F series or the stronger/heavier G series diff).
LSD is hard to find for the stock T series diff but easy to find from 4WD shops for the F and G series diffs.
- Stepho
Forum for all Toyota Celica discussion! Including the ST16x/18x/20x, and ZZT230/231.
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