91 celica no start issue

[mattliston]

Hi guys.

1991 celica GTS sport, 2.2 liter, external coil

This is my brothers car.

previously, the car was refusing to drive spirited. no fast revviong, couldnt handle accelerating faster then grandma in a geo metor 3 cylinder.

it didnt die with that, it simply didnt rev up at all. it had too take forever to accelerate, and barely made it up a slight hill. I say slight as in a small person could probably still push their car up it if necessary.

it finally died on teh way home from work. slowly died, it didnt just shut off. felt kinda like teh fuel slowly stopped flowing.

anyways, due to teh temps outside, I thought it was an iced up fuel system

seafoam is a damn good de icer. off came the top banjo on teh fuel filter, in went seafoam. I watched it stay level, tehn slowly lower than all teh sudden disappear, falling through teh fitler. I then put some in teh gastank, and let it sit overnight. next day, 3 1/2 gallons of gas to dilute the seafoam. previously only about 2 gallons sitting in tank, if thats what makes it 1/4 full


car startedm, idled 200-300rpms, then slowly died. attempts after that showed no effort or want to start. My brother said he attempted to start it multiple times, even enough to require a jumpstart attempt. the celicas come with a nice sized battery and this one looks to be less then a year old, so I can imagine the shit the plgus went through

so I installed brand new Denso platinum twin tips, upon recommendation form a local supra owner (1st ior 2nd gen, hideaways, hatchback??)

car seemed to wanna fire up now, with teh new plugs, but again, didnt.


I cant hear a relay click or the pump whine, so I cant confirm those. that stupid tone from teh key MY GOD i wanna kill it.




so here is what Im asking


For those of you experiencing similar situations, or more so experienced, what was the result that saved the car?

I think its the fuel pump, and possibly a damaged fuel filter. Im going to pop a hole in the filter, jsut to see what happens. my brotehr is already planning on changing it when he has psare money and since he works intown, its no big deal to let the car sit until its fixed



thanks in advance guys

-Matt

[mattliston]

well fuel pump is bad, and is removed

Im trying to save some money by using a honda style walbro 255 I have laying around. its brand new never used, so I said why not

it seems to be a slightly smaller version of the toyota pump, and with a different connector attachment (prongs over toyota's screw on terminals)

I see a single wired sensor, a cylinder with a needle point
on the toyota setup it just about touches teh pump's filter pouch

what is the purpose of this, and is it something I need to keep in mind while fitting the honda pump?
is it a vibration or leveling assist perhaps?

the goal is to get the car running and t5hats it. the leveling is a seeperate mechanism, but Im stil curious about this single wire thing.

Ill try to get a picture, but I almost never remember to bring a camera to where im doing the work on teh car lol

[mattliston]

car is still not starting guys

NEW Denso platinum twin tips, gapped at 40 as told by autozone computer

NEW honda walbro 255 fuel pump. wired in, works great. loud, and I ONLY did ti because I had it laying around with only 150 miles or something on it


NEW acdelco fuel filter

NO fuel leaks

FRESH gas, 1/2 tank

we have spark, we have fuel


I removed teh O2 sensor and while cranking I feel warm air and get a fuel smell


tomorrow i am checking timing.


Any ideas? any agreement with timing as a potential cause?

Thanks in advance

-Matt

[93celicaconv]

Timing certainly can be a cause. Best way to check it is to take the top timing belt cover off, get the crankshaft to top dead center, and make sure the camshaft sproket is aligned with it's timing mark.

If that checks OK, check your cylinder compression.

If your timing is good, you have good compression, you have fuel & ignition, the engine should fire up.

[mattliston]

yeah it needs a whole enw timing setup

belt looks liek crap

belt has zero tension. I pusyhed on it and it simply gave to my touch. I think its broken


plans are for belt, tensioner, idler, and waterpump

[RobMilkshakes]

try to take care of the cam and crank seal while you're at it. I had a major leak in my cam seal which severly shortened the length of my previous timing belt. At only about $10 for both, its not a bad investment.

[mattliston]

yeah in my other thread I posted a link to an ebay auction. it says it incldues WP agsket and cam seal

Ill keep teh main in mind. makes an all in one mechanical attack lol

[mattliston]

anyone know of a good toyota diagram site? I usually find dealership sites to be good choices.

[RobMilkshakes]

for the longest time toyodiy was great. they had all the diagrams that the dealer would pull up in their parts department. but sadly they took them down

[mattliston]

I ask because my brother was a dumbass and bought the durabrand kit. for the inexperienced, durabrand is the WORST brand to buy anything for an import.

the WP gasket is a hair too big and of course is a pain in the ass to try and hold in place while trying to thread a bolt into place.

then the WP slipped from my fingers and now I need a diagram that tells me which bolt holes get the longer bolts, and which ones use the shorter ones

[mattliston]

I have no more patiences left to try and fiddle and spend more time figuring which hole accepts teh longer bolts. I relly wanna smash the car, its one problem after another. when its fixed, im gonna make sure its not gonna need anything else for a long time. fuel pump, filter, spark plugs, timing assembly, and water pump should do that pretty damn well

[93celicaconv]

I'm assuming you are replacing the water pump without removing the water pump cover (the part that has the water inlet, thermostat, and is bolted to the water pump by-pass pipe)?

I have a shop manual that goes through this procedure, and it includes the steps to take the water pump out along with it's cover, then remove the cover away from the engine. As such, it doesn't refer to lengths of bolts.

However, if I were to "guess" from the shop manual process, I would say the longer bolts are the 3 that would be at the 9 o'clock through the 11 o'clock positions, when looking at the water pump pulley, as those 3 mount the water pump through the cover and into the engine block. The other 3 shorter bolts, I would assume, would be those that run from about 1 o'clock to 6 o'clock, because those bolts only hold the water pump to the water pump cover, and don't go into the engine block. Of course, you also have a bolt that attaches your alternator belt adjusting bar to the water pump at about the 5 o'clock position. Hopefully that bolt is unique in length.

Probably to late to be of any help though. Let us know how you did.

[mattliston]

well, teh car is kinda done


it ran perfect with no accessories bolted to it.

it ran pperfect all back together


it sputtered and threatened to die after 5 minutes or so of running


how many more fuel problems is this car gonna have?


I was forced due to VERY rusty reasons, to use a compression fitting on the fuel hardline under the hood. only way to remove the line from the old clogegd filter without replacing the entire hardline assembly.

I have a new filter, but I think my compression fitting took a crap. big pool of gas instantly on teh ground.




GUYS, she has a new walbro 255 fuel pump I took form my del sol before I scrapped her, a new fuel filter, new spark plugs, new timing kit, new WP
after this compression fitting, Im so excited to beat on hear a little bit jsut to enjoy all my hard work. when she was running smooth before it blew the compression fitting, my GOD she wanted to rip throught eh gears. I didnt drive at all yet, just uidled and revved. you could tell she sounded so much more aggressive.

lol


there was a gen3 camry or corolla tioming/wp write up on here i used, congrats to the maker for sure!!

thnaks guys