Hi, I am new to this forum. I drive 2000 Celica GTS, manual transmission. Lately, I have been noticing that when I push the accelarator a little too hard, the RPM shoots up non-linearly before coming down. Then the RPM goes up linearly with increased accelaration, as expected. What could be the cause for that non-linear uptick in RPM? I have noticed this when driving on freeways because that's when I am trying to gain speed and may inadvertently press the pedal a tad too hard. Thanks.
So you press a little too hard and RPMs increase without you gaining speed?
I'm guessing it also happens if you're in too high of a gear and try to accelerate, say like from 25mph in 4th gear?
Sounds like your clutch is slipping if this is the case.
Yes, the RPM goes up without gaining speed for a few seconds. I have noticed this at the higher gears, mostly 5th and 5th but sometimes also at 3rd and 4th. The clutch presses fine and the gear shifts are smooth. The problem with RPM happens after I have shifted the gear.
So you press a little too hard and RPMs increase without you gaining speed?
I'm guessing it also happens if you're in too high of a gear and try to accelerate, say like from 25mph in 4th gear?
Sounds like your clutch is slipping if this is the case.
Yes, either clutch slip or emissions control.
Possibly burying the pedal in the floor causes the computer to read the extra fuel intake and as such dose a little "burn off" to keep emissions in check.... But I'm betting clutch slip since it doesn't do it all the time.
Yes, the RPM goes up without gaining speed for a few seconds. I have noticed this at the higher gears, mostly 5th and 5th but sometimes also at 3rd and 4th. The clutch presses fine and the gear shifts are smooth. The problem with RPM happens after I have shifted the gear.
Yes, sounds like classic clutch slip. The problem isn't in whether or not the clutch is engaging/dissengaging, its to do with the clutch disk actually "grabbing" the flywheel on the engine and transferring the power to the transmission. Now rather than the clutch disk and flywheel rotating together when under stress (like accerating in a high gear), the clutch disk actually slips and does not trafer the roation since either the friction material is worn on the face of the clutch disk, or the springs in the pressure plate are not applying the force they should.
edit: dont worry about trying to figure out which one it is, when you buy a clutch kit you'll get both as well as a new throwout bearing, all which should be replaced if replacing any of the other components.
Yes, sounds like classic clutch slip. The problem isn't in whether or not the clutch is engaging/dissengaging, its to do with the clutch disk actually "grabbing" the flywheel on the engine and transferring the power to the transmission. Now rather than the clutch disk and flywheel rotating together when under stress (like accerating in a high gear), the clutch disk actually slips and does not trafer the roation since either the friction material is worn on the face of the clutch disk, or the springs in the pressure plate are not applying the force they should.
edit: dont worry about trying to figure out which one it is, when you buy a clutch kit you'll get both as well as a new throwout bearing, all which should be replaced if replacing any of the other components.
Thanks. Is this a serious problem, meaning do I have to take care of it immediately otherwise it might damage other parts? Do I have to get this done at the dealership? And how much would I be looking at approximately?
its something that should be taken care of as soon as possible. I limped mine around gently with a slipping clutch (bought it with one) and after a few months it was getting worse. eventually if it goes long enough, you wont be able to get the car moving.
It wont really damage parts but could leave you stranded.
You dont have to get it done at a dealership, usually thats ideal, but can really be done at any reputable shop. I was going to do mine by myself but was sick of lying on the ground working on mine and let my friend in a shop take care of it.
As for price, it depends on where you go/ where you buy the clutch. I honestly do not know the going price for a clutch for a 2zz so I cant give any starting point there, just try your local autoparts places (autozone, napa, advance etc) to just get a ball park price. As for going rates for shops usually its between 80-100 dollars an hour for bigger shops. for my 92 it listed labor time being around 5-6 hours. Probably time to just try to get prices and call around some.
its something that should be taken care of as soon as possible. I limped mine around gently with a slipping clutch (bought it with one) and after a few months it was getting worse. eventually if it goes long enough, you wont be able to get the car moving.
It wont really damage parts but could leave you stranded.
You dont have to get it done at a dealership, usually thats ideal, but can really be done at any reputable shop. I was going to do mine by myself but was sick of lying on the ground working on mine and let my friend in a shop take care of it.
As for price, it depends on where you go/ where you buy the clutch. I honestly do not know the going price for a clutch for a 2zz so I cant give any starting point there, just try your local autoparts places (autozone, napa, advance etc) to just get a ball park price. As for going rates for shops usually its between 80-100 dollars an hour for bigger shops. for my 92 it listed labor time being around 5-6 hours. Probably time to just try to get prices and call around some.
So I finally got a new clutch in my 2000 Celica GTS today. The problem is, I am experiencing a burning smell from the engine. It's the same smell that I got when the old clutch finally broke down a few days ago. I called the shop and the owner/mechanic told me to give it about 50 miles for the clutch plate to start wearing out evenly. This doesn't sound right to me. I am afraid that the clutch might not be installed properly and is rubbing against something (maybe the clutch plate and pressure plate in a way that it is not supposed to) that is causing the smell. Is the owner/mechanic correct? Is the smell normal for a new clutch, even if it is properly installed? If so, how long before the smell finally goes away?
Secondly, this may or may not be related but I am also noticing that the clutch pedal is behaving differently from before. I mean, before I would never stall getting out of the 1st gear because I knew precisely when to press down on the gas pedal and when to release the clutch pedal. But with the new clutch this clutch-gas pedal timing has somehow changed. It's not as smooth as before. I actually stalled getting out of the shop today! Here also the shop owner's response was to wait a few days. Is this normal too with a new clutch?
It's common for you to have to break in the new clutch, and it's not uncommon for the coating from manufacturing to put off an odor as it wears away... basically the same thing as with brake pads. Give it a few days and if it still does it go back and complain.
The pedal will behave differently because you've got a lot more friction material than you did previously, but the clutch can be a little grabby while breaking in, this should go away with time.
Thanks. A new issue just popped up. The check engine light is on now. I am not sure if it is related to the clutch or something else but this is the first time it has come on. And the timing is very curious: just after the car comes back from the shop! I am taking it back to the mechanic. I hope it is nothing serious and that they don't try to skim me for more money!
But after a clutch job it takes a little while for the new clutch to break it, and the new pressure plate accounts for the different clutch pedal feel. The difference between my original and my new clutch was ridiculous.
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