Help: RPM increase w/ no power - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums

kris04gts · 02-23-2010, 01:59 PM

Hello Community,
I drive an 04 GTS TRD and have run into some problem as of late. When switching gears the rpm's go up but no power is being distributed to the wheels, it seems to only last a few seconds but i have to give it less gas. The car doesn't feel like its about to stall, it just seems to be taking only a little power when I press the gas. It just started to happen and it does it 3 out of every 5 times I switch to a gear. I thought it might be the plugs (the plugs were shot) so I replaced them with some denso plugs and still no dice. I checked and saw that I was low on Anti-Freeze but even when I topped that off still no change. I am out of ideas now. Any suggestions?
Thank You.

RobMilkshakes · 02-23-2010, 06:15 PM

Standard transmission?

Does it also happen when trying to accelerate in too high of a gear? say from 30mph in 6th?

If so sounds like the clutch.

kris04gts · 02-23-2010, 06:28 PM

The transmission is manual. The problem seems to only occur when entering a gear. I replaced the plugs on Sunday and took it out for a drive to see if any change, the response was way better but once or twice it just didn't get any power when i pressed on the gas. I hope its not the clutch $$$. I will go out tonight to test the 30mph at 6th and such. Usually when I drive i mostly start in second but at times have at third, could this have caused the problem. Thank You, I will give an update after the test. Appreciate the support.

RobMilkshakes · 02-23-2010, 06:37 PM

Oh you skip first completely?

That can definitely lead to a worn clutch since you have to slip it a lot more in second or even third.

Also how many miles do you have on the car?

kris04gts · 02-23-2010, 06:42 PM

The car has 70,000 miles on it. I have driven stick my whole life (4 years in an eclipse turbo & 2 years in a Honda) I don't race the thing or ride it hard. Hmmm... after i read your comment i went searching Google and found this:
http://www.complaints.com/directory/2004/june/11/32.htm

I will run through the test in a few hours but from what I have been reading it does seem like it could be the clutch.

RobMilkshakes · 02-23-2010, 07:27 PM

yeah thats the only thing that would really make sense at least from that evidence.

Its weird, I've seen this question posted in this forum at least 3 times in the past few months. All for 7th-gen gts's. Something about that clutch they mated after the 2zz.... I'm thinking that they may have used too light of a pressure plate? I dont know but thats ridiculous. I just had to replace the clutch on my celica, but that was when I first bought it, previously owned by three 16-20 year old girls, judging by the rest of the car it was driven pretty hard and had almost 160,000 miles on it.

***MR2Jedi*** · 02-23-2010, 07:49 PM

Yep, sounds like a slipping clutch to me too.

kris04gts · 02-24-2010, 03:16 PM

Thank You RobMilkshakes, I did a little test last night and it looks like it is the clutch. Just wondering, I am thinking of getting a stage 2 clutch just incase I ever beef up the HP. Does that sound like a good thing? I have been looking around for clutches for a 2ZZ-GE engine but still no luck yet on any comparisons between the different brands. Are there any brands in particular that seem to go well with the celica?
Thank You again for your help.

***MR2Jedi*** · 02-24-2010, 05:26 PM

Spec and ACT are excellent clutches. Don't get more clutch than you need. If you think you may increase your HP later, stage 2 wouldn't be too over board. A stege 2 is usually good to around 300-350HP. Most Toyota OEM clutches are good to about 270-280hp.
If this is a DD, I would stick with a sprung clutch. The OEM clutch is a very good clutch.

kris04gts · 02-24-2010, 05:32 PM

Thank You MR2Jedi for the response, I'm glad you replied because I was going to get a stage 3 SPEC clutch but now I am not to sure. I want a clutch that I don't have to worry about to much wear with occasional racing. I plan on upgrading my celica but not sure how much so I thought I could play it safe. I was wondering if a (Hybrid Kevlar and Carbon-Graphite Friction material) or (Pure Kevlar friction material) for the clutch is better? I am somewhat of a noob to more detailed engine repair. Suggestions?

The price difference between a stage 3 and stage 1 is only about 30 bucks.

sf695@hotmail.com · 02-24-2010, 05:37 PM

Pretty sure that is the clunch. It may not be too bad though, if it's only just been recently. Sometimes it's enough to adjust it.

***MR2Jedi*** · 02-24-2010, 05:58 PM

Too much clutch lessens streetability.

The Kevlar Carbon-Graphite is a softer stickier, material.. Good for grip, but not for longevity. They tend to " glaze", which can lead to slippage and reduces their life.

For street, I would go with the organic compounds for durability, drivability and a smoother engagement.

RobMilkshakes · 02-24-2010, 06:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MR2Jedi

Too much clutch lessens streetability.

The Kevlar Carbon-Graphite is a softer stickier, material.. Good for grip, but not for longevity. They tend to " glaze", which can lead to slippage and reduces their life.

For street, I would go with the organic compounds for durability, drivability and a smoother engagement.

+1

For a DD I would just say go OEM clutch or maybe stage 1. Anthing past that, it'll become a pain to drive on the street.

***MR2Jedi*** · 02-24-2010, 06:08 PM

This may help you decide: But unless you plan on going over 350HP, I would go with a stage 2 clutch.

organic
CHARACTERISTICS- Metal-fiber woven into "organic" (actually CF aramid with other materials), original-equipment style. Known for smooth engagement, long life, broad operating temperature, minimal-to-no break in period. Will take hard use, somewhat intolerant of repeated abuse (will overheat). Will return to almost full operational condition if overheated. Material is dark brown or black with visible metal fibers.

kevlar
CHARACTERISTICS -A high-durability material more resistant to hard use. Engagement is similar to organic, but may glaze slightly in stop-and-go traffic, resulting in slippage until worn clean when used hard again. Higher temp range in general, but can be ruined from overheating - will not return to original characteristics if "cooked". Has a break-in period of 500-1000 miles during which slippage may occur. Care must be taken during this period not to overheat from excessive slipping. Material is uniform yellow/green and may look slightly fuzzy when new.

Street-driven track cars up to 500hp, auto-x and heavy track use. Will take hard use, intolerant of abuse (will overheat and not recover completely). Due to the unforgiving nature of Kevlar, it is not recommended for street cars, especially those that see frequent stop-and-go traffic which will cause surface glazing of the clutch.

segmented kevlar
CHARACTERISTICS- Same material and characteristics as solid kevlar above, but segmented (blocks or sections missing) for better heat dissipation. New generation of kevlar offered by UUC is resistant to glazing and is an excellent choice for smooth operation in high-powered cars or those equipped with SMG transmissions.

hybrid carbon/ceramic/organic
CHARACTERISTICS -Organic material on one side and a segmented carbon or ceramic material on the other. The idea is that the organic side will help smooth the engagement, reducing the shuddering from the segmented side. Engagement is same as organic, but still with shuddering. Temperature and hp range is identical to organic. Carbon/ceramic side will wear flywheel or pressure plate surface faster and will wear out faster in traffic situations. Material is organic on one side (described above) and segmented or completely separate pucks (described below) on the other.
Can be used in same situations as standard organic. The "hybrid" design appears to be more of a marketing gimmick rather than an actual performance advantage. Some brands are poorly designed and wear unevenly due to flexation of the clutch disk. For examples of hybrid failure, click here.

carbon/ceramic
CHARACTERISTICS -Very high temperature materials, usually only found on multi-puck disks. Will accommodate 500hp+ Engagement is more abrupt. Will wear flywheel surface faster, especially in traffic situations. Carbon is slightly more durable and flywheel-friendly, ceramic has a higher temp range. Multi-puck design may result in slight shuddering or "stepped" engagement when used in traffic situations, although many users report completely acceptable operation. Material is any of several light hues - gray, pink, brown.

sintered iron
CHARACTERISTICS- Extremely high temperature material. Will accommodate 700hp+ Engagement is on or off. Requires special flywheel surface. Material is metallic gray.
Strictly for high-horsepower endurance racing. With correct pressure plate, capable of extremely high clamping force. Engagement is like a switch, either on or off. Does not work well when cold. High-durability flywheel surface required, standard flywheels will be destroyed quickly.

kris04gts · 02-24-2010, 06:25 PM

I appreciate all of the responses. I will probably go with the stage 1 organic then so street driving isn't a pain. I am grateful for the information posted about the composites, seems like organic tends to last longer & do less damage. I hope I can repay you guys with questions in the future.
Will post update nest week after install.