Quick assessment rrrrrrreeeaaallllllllllllly needed

[Blane]

My front braking crap is seriously sh!t I am replacing it all.
rotors are warped.
brakes have motor oil on them.

Then I discovered something I ain't never seen before.

If you look at the picture on the left lug bolt you can clearly see a space where the rotor can wiggle half an inch. Import warehouse and autozone say that's bad. but when I bought new rotors they are the same. I am wondering if some put one wierd POS hub assembly on my car and the bolts are thinner. Like if the assembly thingy is from a 91' celica. Another think that I noticed is that the bolts in the front do not match the ones in the back. But they are the same thickness.


Any help or suggestions will help.
Thanks in advance.

If you were wondering how much my rotors cost. They cost me $120usd for two. (TRW's)

[Deep]

Why not replace the studs? Its an easy job.

[silverstreakin]

fyi the disks do float. they arent tight in the hole by any means at all. with proper wheel lug torque it doesnt move

[Blane]

How sure are you?
In a emergency skid isn't it possible that the rotor will shear of the lugs? (As my dad says)

[Deep]

Silver's right, the rotor is sandwiched between the hub and the wheel, its not that bad. But for piece of mind, replace the studs with new ones, they're cheap. If you look at the back of the dust sheild, you'll find a hole. Line up the stud with the hole and pound it out with a hammer (5lb sledge is my weapon of choice.) Push the new one in as far as you can and then tighten down your wheels to pull them all the way in.

[silverstreakin]

blane. im very sure. every rotor ive ever seen, from any company, has play. if you dont belive me, check it on every car you have. i can assure you that every one will have some play on the rotor. they are made that way. deep is right too. new lugs are some cheap peace of mind

:edit:
while we are here on the brake subject, when you turn rotors or drums, this even applies to clutches; or, you replace with brand new items, let us not forget that you must remove the "glaze" from them with small, circular strokes with sandpaper. i prefer 180 grit.

it greatly improves the life of the item, and keeps away unwanted clutch chatter

[Blane]

Its better if you have the machine shop resurface the stuff themselves. And new rotors they already are surfaced. When you buy new rotors be sure to remove all the wax crap that is used to keep the rotor from rusting.

[silverstreakin]

when you have them turned, resurfaced, or just buy new ones, you must sand them to scuff the surface. it helps to properly wear in the pad. dont make me get on my soapbox on this one. #1 leading cause of clutch chatter is just installing a new pressure plate with a newly resurfaced flywheel and not breaking the glaze on it.

same principle as breaking the glaze on a newly resurfaced cyl wall.

[Blane]

clutches are different.
On new rotors they come "scruffed" or surfaced.
You clean the wax off and stick them on.
And if you replace the rotors you replace the brake pads.
That will insure your correct wear.
I'm right.