Celica 1991- Insane gas consumption/running rich

[Kanjo Racing]

Hello to everyone.. I have a prety much big problem and i was wondering if you could help me out here.... I have a Toyota Celica 1991 with a 4A-FE engine.. People say about this engines that they have a very great gas mileage but on mine is just very bad.. I will describe everything..
So for starts, the engine (internals,and other stuff) are in very good shape and condition..It is complete stock. Runs prety fine (has some power eaven tho people say that they are very slow),very calm on idle,no signs of any problem,no oil consumption (except it has a litlle oil pan gasket leak)..So when I bought the car , the lowest gas consumption I could get was about 9Liters per 100km. And that was with driving like granny, shifting on 2000rpm, bearly touching the gas pedal..Then I made an "service". Changed the oil, inside was castrol 10 w40 and i put Eneos 5w40 full synthetic,oil filter,changed the injector seals (the up ones and down ones),cleaned the throttle body (there was a lot of sludge),made some sort of a (CAI/ RAM air intake with cone filter),cleaned the EGR valve.The car was sitting down for about few day because I couldnˇt get the injector seals at any shop. After the work was done I started to use car. After one day of use I noticed a BRUTALY jump in gas consumption.. I was about 12Liters per 100km with granny style driving . I put back the original airbox with air filter.. No changes..I was not eaven satisfied with a 9L consumption,and not 12 , I mean dont get me wrong but i drive a 4AFE economy engine and not a 4AGE 20v blacktop -.- . So the story goes on, I changed this things:
-NEW o2 sensor
-NEW NGK spark plugs
-NEW CTS (coolant temperature sensor)

AND NO CHANGES -.-" .

P.S : I did restart the ECU correctly after any change I made.. The old spark plugs where not greasy , as a mather of fact, they where a slightly white (lean).But there are 2 things that are telling me that is running rich:
1st: Extreme gas consumption
2nd: From the exhaust is coming very strong smell of gas , and if the wheater gets colder the steam and condenzation along with the smell starts to come out ,but unlike in normal cars, the steam doesent stop NEVER, no mather how hot the car is..
Ou, and I do the diagnostic on the car alomst every day and there are no error codes..

Help please =) ?

[RobMilkshakes]

Originally Posted by Kanjo Racing

2nd: From the exhaust is coming very strong smell of gas , and if the wheater gets colder the steam and condenzation along with the smell starts to come out ,but unlike in normal cars, the steam doesent stop NEVER, no mather how hot the car is..
Ou, and I do the diagnostic on the car alomst every day and there are no error codes..

Help please =) ?

Does the car consume any coolant or get overly hot?

[Kanjo Racing]

No, you see thats my point.. The engine is realy in good condition. There is no a coolant consumption, not a single drop , and when it gets his working temperature the gauge is very stable it stays that way.. No overheating or strange cooling or something..The steam is normal when is cold outside (its about +2 to -4 C deegres (about 275-270 F) but in normal cars there goes much less steam and it usualy stops when the car gets its operating temperature.. I heard that IAT sensor (intake air temperature sensor) and MAP sensor can cause that kind of problems.. Is it posible that they cause this rich problem eaven if there are no error codes?? Tnx

[MR2Jedi]

Have you changed your spark plug wires, cap and rotor?
Also, 10w40 is kinda heavy for the 4A FE. I would be using 10w30.
Anyway,I would recommend a complete ignition tune up and check timing , then go from there.

[Kanjo Racing]

No, i write it on the first post , the oil is Eneos 5w40 full synth.. I dont think that its a cable/rotor problem snice the car is running normal and starting just by looking at the key.. Anyway, I tested the IAT sensor and its good, all grounds are good.. But now there is a strange thing.. I tested the MAP sensor also..He runs on 5volts and by vacum the volts should start droping.. The stronger the vacum the lower the volts.. And on my MAP , by the vacum the volts dont drop.. IIt always stays 5volts.. And I did test it on the right way so thats not an issue..

So my question is: Can the faulty MAP cause that problem without throwing any error codes? tnx!

[sircrashalot9090]

I wanted to suggest the map sensor but you beat me to it. My 92 st has a 94 prizm 4afe, but yes the map will make the motor run rich and not throw a code. Start diggin up the pick n pulls...

[Kanjo Racing]

-thank you for your answer! Im gonna borrow another map sensor tomorrow..

Start diggin up the pick n pulls... <-- This is what I dont understandm sry.. =D

[sircrashalot9090]

pick n pull is to junkyard as ethanol is to alcohol. One just gets a special name

[Kanjo Racing]

Oh I get it . Well, you would not believe how idiotic is the country I live in.. When I found out that MAP could be faulty,the first thing I do was calling the shops.. The 90% of the guys who works at the shops dont know what is map.. After few minutes of explanation the answer in every shop was = oh that (than he says some idiotic croatian name for the part) and all the shops says: No we dont have that. Now when it comes to junkyards its also a funny thing.There are not many junkyards and if you eaven find some, there are absolute no Japanese cars there..Luckly I found one wich has the map from the carina 4afe (its the same I guess) so i saked a guy how much for the part and he coldbloodedly said : 600 kn (about 125$) . I mean, come on , its the part from a junkyard, you cant be serious!

[sircrashalot9090]

$125!?!? auto parts stores here want over 300 bucks. I think i may have found you an easy way out. Go to ebay and just type in 4afe map. Only one will come up and its 25 bucks plus 11 shipping. labeled for the 88-92 prizm/corolla, but its the same.