Alternator or Igniter?

[VanBam]

My 90 Toyota Celica GT dies, simple. It then has too much trouble restarting, or it won't even start at all *[it cranks, starter's been replaced, but it wont run], unless i'm lucky after half an hr or more. Which is more likely to be the cause to this issue? The igniter or the alternator?

A helpful mechanic on the road* was certain that my alternator's weak. He charged my battery for a couple of minutes and it did the trick. It really does make sense because after driving it around for a good while yesterday, as soon as I was about to head to work at night, it wouldn't start [the car uses more electrical components at night for lighting and such, pretty obvious]..some nice neighbour boosted my car using her's, but it died as soon as I revved.

BUT would it make sense for the igniter to do the same if it's weak? I don't know if it is, I'm not even familiar with any ways to test the igniter..I know it does play a big role in keeping the car running. To test that, my buddy unplugged the igniter while my car was running, and it died instantly.

According to my fam mechanic, he tested my alternator sometime around October and said it was working good..I don't believe him after all this, so I'm hopefully getting a load test done on Monday in curtosy to my past auto teacher.

*If it passes the load test, should I convince myself that it could be the igniter?

[Ace2424]

Is it staying on after the jump or cutting out once you take the cables off? It sounds more like a fuel issue to me than "igniter" ( by which do you mean ignition coil? ) when is the last time you've had a good tune-up?

[Bitter]

easy test, whats your voltage when its running and your accessories are all on (headlights, defroster, blower on high)?

[VanBam]

The igniter is also known as the ICM [ignition control module]..

Yes it does stay on as soon as the cables are removed. It has to be an electrical issue. When that friendly mechanic boosted/charged my battery, it made it pretty obvious. I drove from Westney and Kingston all the way to Valley Farm and Kingston [about 6 kms, doesn't sound much, but believe me it should've died] and it didn't die on me once after that mini charge.

Overal Story: I was ripping it around for a while, no electrical components on what so ever, then decided to mission to Ajax from Pickering, not far at all, but it died on me right before the lights by Westney and Kingston..after half an hour of beating the shit out of it: cranking, cursing, tapping the igniter, unplugging/plugging the igniter, waiting..i got it working, raced over to the nearest turn and as soon as i got to the same lights but at the opposite direction, it died on me again LOL..

And from what I know, my fuel injection system is clean. I also have brand new fuel lines installed.

And to Bitter: I know how to test it, it has to be above 13V for it to be in a good condition, I just don't have the meter to test it myself..and i'm not willing to pay 50 bucks just to do it myself when I can get it tested for free. What I was wondering was if there's any way i can test my igniter to see if it's weak or strong.

[Ace2424]

Advance autoparts should be able to test it for you. Free.

[VanBam]

I'm in Canada..but I already have my past highschool's auto teacher to help me out on Monday.

[Bitter]

a basic multimeter does not cost $50, not even in the land of caribou and jim carrey. Heck, you can get one that plugs into the lighter socket.

[VanBam]

lol way to go Vana..eh, no point in buying one today, i'm already taking it to a shop tomorrow. We'll see how it goes.

I kind of hope it is the alternator as expensive as that part is, bc i'm so sick of having to figure out what the cause to my issue is..as much as i love cars, they're a paaaaaaaain in the ass. After going through this hassle with my first car, i doubt i'll ever have trouble dealing with any other bf and/or future husband lol