Replacing the front wheel bearings. I broke and bent every thing trying to turn the hub nut off. Half inch impact at 140psi not even close. Finally ground the nut off with a Dremel tool. That actually didn't take long at all. So the question. Why on God's green earth does that nut need to be so tight? It has a locking nut and cotter pin too. I'm tempted to torque it at around 100 lbs and call it good so if I need to get it off another day I can without breaking all my bars. Am I going to watch my wheels run off into the ditch by doing this?
That nut does need to be tight, but it was probably some corrosion and wear from years of heat cycling causing that nut to seem even more so. Retighten to correct torque specs to be safe. It wont be as difficult the next time around, and on the off chance it is, try using a torch. That has helped me many times and is a vital tool to own, especially with older cars.
the PSI at the gun doesn't mean squat. I've got a gun that at 100psi makes 150lb/ft and another that at the same pressure makes 700lb/ft. You've also got to account for the cfm your compressor can flow and what the gun needs to run.
Also, I know this may be redundent but why so tight? What physics is going on that the hub nut needs to be torqued to 150 lbs. . It can't be about the nut coming off because there is a locking retainer nut. It can't be about heat like a head nut. The regular hub nut on old rear wheel drive cars where the nut held the race, bearing , seal , and cover washer on , you turned the nut till the bearing wouldn't turn and then backed off a quarter turn or so. The locking nut and cotter pin holds everything together.
I see the locking nut and cotter pin as being essentially redundancy in the design to keep that nut on there, as a mere precaution. There is significant heat from the brakes, and even worse, heat cycles.
Also, I know this may be redundent but why so tight? What physics is going on that the hub nut needs to be torqued to 150 lbs. . It can't be about the nut coming off because there is a locking retainer nut. It can't be about heat like a head nut. The regular hub nut on old rear wheel drive cars where the nut held the race, bearing , seal , and cover washer on , you turned the nut till the bearing wouldn't turn and then backed off a quarter turn or so. The locking nut and cotter pin holds everything together.
Bearing Pre-load against axial loads. It has ball bearings, not roller bearings. Trust me, you need that nut back at the factory spec or you risk destroying the wheel bearings very prematurely.
Bearing Pre-load against axial loads. It has ball bearings, not roller bearings. Trust me, you need that nut back at the factory spec or you risk destroying the wheel bearings very prematurely.
What he said. Also, the inner race is in two halves and can't be treated like a traditional rwd front wheel (tapered roller) brg. Ask me how I know that. I think 137 lbs-ft torque should do it. What year celica is it?
Im sorry but OP you are about the dumbest person Ive seen...
You cant untorque something so you cut it off.
Then you dont want to put it to MANUFACTURE spec cuz "if I need to get it off another day"
And to add on for why so tight, your axle is moving in the opp. direction from the nut meaning if your car has 130ftlb then you need 130+ftlb's to keep the nut there.
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Finally ground the nut off with a Dremel tool. That actually didn't take long at all. So the question. Why on God's green earth does that nut need to be so tight? It has a locking nut and cotter pin too. I'm tempted to torque it at around 100 lbs and call it good so if I need to get it off another day I can without breaking all my bars. Am I going to watch my wheels run off into the ditch by doing this?
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