hey guys, im new to the celica forum im usually on the camry side :P
But my gf has a 00 celica GT (auto)and its been running pretty bad lately and decided to stop by here to see if any of you guys could help.
A while back it was a little rough but not so bad, I ran some seafoam and cleaned the MAF, it made it smoother and the CEL went away, but came back shortly. Im unsure of the code but I will check soon.
anyways the code is still there I will try to get it checked soon though, but the car runs like CRAP when the Heat or AC is on.
If at a light, and the ac is on, the idle will drop from 7-800 to below 500 and jump back up to 7-800 and back down to 500, but it will save it self right before it wants to stall. I turn the heater off and bam its fine. While driving if I turn the heater on you can FEEL the strain it puts on the engine and the rpms drop about 500. So eg your going at 2500 rpm, with the heater on it will dorp to 2000. ALSO the ac sometimes randomly turns on and when it does it has a flashing green light, does anyone know that what that means?
I think it may be the MAF, or a loose vacuum, but im not sure how the heater is affecting it ?
I'd say start by checking all of the vacuum lines. Sounds like it could be a serious vac leak. Most of the time when the car is running (driving) you don't notice the difference with a vac leak because the computer adjusts the fuel air ratio... but when it's idling, it's harder for it to adjust and you notice it a lot more. If there is something added to the strain on the engine with a vac leak while you're driving, it will make a noticeable difference too. If it's reacting this noticeably, I'd say check the intake manifold gasket.
You'll notice a difference in fuel consumption too. One way to determine where the leak is, is to put carb cleaner on the spots you suspect may have a leak. If the engine sucks it in, it will stall and you know where the leak is coming from. I did that with a break booster on an old car I had to determine a vac leak once before.
Keep in mind though, carb cleaner is what they call a "hot" chemical. It will eat away at plastics and what not, so if anything, use it sparingly. Water may also do the same trick if you use a spritz bottle.
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Super White 1994 Celica GT 5SFE 5-Speed - 150,000 Miles - Still Driving
Vintage Red Pearl 1999 Camry 5SFE - 216k Miles - Totaled R.I.P.
^ very neat trick, I also assume its a vac problem. I just got to drive it today after the movies, and it was dark and cold so I didnt get to pop the hood.
Unless a hose is disconnected, how else would there be a leak? old cracked line?
I think her plugs are due for a change, but I doubt that it could cause that HUGE of a problem.
Also it idles fine WITHOUT the heater or ac on, how does the heater affect the idle? I know the AC compressor does but im unsure how the heater does? At lights we need to turn the heater off or else the idle goes all over the place.
It may just be the extra electrical load of the blower motor for the heater causing it. See if its caused by any other electrical loads (high beams, radio, cabin lights) without the heater. If thats the case the voltage regulator on the alternator could be going out. It'd be worth checking it out.
It may just be the extra electrical load of the blower motor for the heater causing it. See if its caused by any other electrical loads (high beams, radio, cabin lights) without the heater. If thats the case the voltage regulator on the alternator could be going out. It'd be worth checking it out.
edit: did not see the bit about the CEL.
yeah Ill try that out, I was actually thinking of pulling the A/C fuse and seeing if that made a difference, I was reading up that hte A/C sometimes turns on and off with your heat. Also read that it could be the ALT but im unsure of how to check that.
AC comes on in defrost or when you press the AC button, its off the rest of the time. Change the spark plugs if they are due to be changed, what part of the MAF did you clean? you need to clean the fine wires up the tube not just the brown 'bulb' to the side of the tube.
AC comes on in defrost or when you press the AC button, its off the rest of the time. Change the spark plugs if they are due to be changed, what part of the MAF did you clean? you need to clean the fine wires up the tube not just the brown 'bulb' to the side of the tube.
yeah I did that carefully with a Q-tip.
Anyways the code is the P0172 System Too Rich (Bank 1),
I reset the CEL, pulled the batt for 10 mins. Also pulled the heater fuse to see what would happen. From idle right as I pulled it, the idle went up about 500, and then fluctuated up and down. I put the fuse back and turned the heater on and it went so low the car stalled...
But I think it may be the faulty magnetic clutch relay for the A/c , which seems to be a common problem for the toyota's. Ill try to swap that with the one in my camry and see how things go. And go from tehre!
Hey man I've been having the SAME exact problems with my 2003 celica GT. It idles extremely rough, and the rpms always go up and down between 1000 and 2000 rpms. When i turn the AC( which a while back had a bliniking orange light) the engine sounds like its under heavy duress. I took the car to several mechanics including the toyota dealership and told me it was an idle motor. Got it replaced for a hefty 600 and it didn't help the problem at all. Now the oil check light has been on, and apparently it has been sucking up massive amounts of oil, i suspect a leak but i got a leakdown test and everything cleared. Got a compression test and the numbers were all good also. I took it to a mechanic last week and he pulled the engine and said it was my valve seals and replaced em, as well as put in new rings. Two weeks later, the problem STILL persists. Im afraid my engine is going to blow up any news?
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