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Old 07-22-2011, 03:57 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Gen5 turboing a 90 celica gt

I need a list of parts to make the turbo work. I know I'll need internals but don't list those please. just everything needed for a turbo. Im getting an ebay turbo kit to get most of the items but what else will I need?

heres my list so far:
*oil feed lines "need to know where to drill in the pan and where the feed line goes"

*intercooler, piping, bovs,

*turbo

*turbo headers/ exhaust

*engine fuel pressure regulator "no idea how to install or it works"

*boost controller

*adjusting the compression ratio "any idea how to do that?"


If I miss anything let me know ill be boosting on low psi so I wont need internals. is there a way when I put it on to make it smogable?

Also I understand I can instal an oil catch can that comes with the turbo kit instead of running lines into the turbo and oil catch pan.




****** these are the items that come with the kit****

1. T3/T4 Hybrid Floating Bearing Turbocharger .50 A/R .63 A/R (30+ PSI, 500+ HP Capability)

2. Universal 8 Piece Intercooler Piping Kit (Extended Length)

3. 8 Piece High Temperature Silicone Couplers (Triple Layer)

4. 16 Piece Stainless Steel T-bolt Clamps (Built In Rubber Stoppers)

5. 27"x5.5"x2.25" Aluminum Turbo Intercooler (Bar and Plate Design)

6. 38mm External V-band Turbocharger Wastegate Kit (5 PSI Spring Included)

7. Progressive Blow Off Valve Kit (Aluminum Flanges, Snap Ring, Vacuum Lines Included)

8. Blow Off Valve Quick Adapter Pipe (Direct Bolt On)

9. Stainless Steel Braided Turbo Oil Return Line Kit (Adapters Included)

10. Stainless Braided Turbo Oil Feed Line Kit (Adapters Included)

11. Engine Fuel Pressure Regulator Kit (Fuel Lines, Fittings, Clamps Included)

12. Engine Oil Catch Tank Kit (Brackets, Clamps, Line Included)

13. In-Cabin Manual Turbo Boost Controller Kit (Vacuum Lines and Clamps Included)

14. In-Cabin Engine Turbo Cool Down Timer (Slim Design)

15. Slim Mount Performance Radiator Fan (1500+ CFM Rating)

16. Radiator Fan Mounting Kit (Springs Included)

17. T3 Steel Turbo 4 Bolt Manifold Flange (Custom Manifold)

18. T3 Steel Turbo 5 Bolt Downpipe Flange (Custom Downpipe)

19. All Gaskets and Hardware Included (See Photo)
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Old 07-22-2011, 05:14 PM   #2 (permalink)
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You will NEVER achieve 500hp with a T3/T4 turbo. too small.
You will need fuel enhancements. And also some type of engine management.
Boost gauge is a must.
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Old 07-22-2011, 06:46 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Oh no sorry about that, that's from the kit that's what they say I only copy and pasted the parts it will come with. I know it's too small to achieve that I only want the turbo just to have for low boost, not going to race the hell out of it. what do you mean by fuel enhancing be specific lol that's why I made the thread in the first place I need detail items to make it work. Do you mean like injectors, fuel pump?
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Old 07-22-2011, 07:28 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Okay I found an amazing and extremely detailed guide to instal a turbo to 5th gen or all 5sfe engines. You might need some modifications to the guide but it's the only 1 I can find

link:
5sfeTurbo.pdf (application/pdf Object)


hope this helps people wanting to turbo their 5sfe instead of an engine swap or alltrac
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Old 07-22-2011, 07:45 PM   #5 (permalink)
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I assume this is for a 3sfe (like what is in your siggy) so it will be very similar to a rev1 5sfe. You will need engine management with both fuel and timing control. Depending on which engine management you use and how much power you are shooting for will determine what size injectors you will need. With a 50 trim t3/t4, I would go with 360-400cc injectors. Be aware that is a big turbo that will not spool until after 4000rpms on your engine.

Also add a larger fuel pump and better clutch to your list as well as a MAP sensor.

Quote:
Originally Posted by PEN View Post
*oil feed lines "need to know where to drill in the pan and where the feed line goes"
Oil can be sourced from a T at the oil pressure sender or a sandwich plate at the filter. Oil return can be done by using a 3sgte oil pan or drilling your pan in the same place and adding a fitting. It needs to be as high up on the pan and should be a large size hose. Hopeful the one that comes with the kit will be good. Also make sure the oil feed has a restricter in it so it doesn't overfeed the turbo.

Quote:
Originally Posted by PEN View Post
*engine fuel pressure regulator "no idea how to install or it works"
You don't actually need this unless you plan to use it to slightly raise or lower the effective size of your injectors. Even if you use one I wouldn't change base pressure by more then 10psi or so as it causes problems. If they include a rising rate FPR and assume that will be enough to get a good tune don't believe them.

Quote:
Originally Posted by PEN View Post
*boost controller
If you can get one that has an over boost protection feature to open the wastegate fully should you over boost past a set limit. Unfortunately they are kind of pricey. The one that comes with the kit is probably just a simple cheap mechanical one which will be fine if you are careful.

Quote:
Originally Posted by PEN View Post
*adjusting the compression ratio "any idea how to do that?"
You do this with custom forged pistons or a thicker head gasket (not the best way). With low boost you will not need to though as long as you have a decent tune.

Quote:
Originally Posted by PEN View Post
If I miss anything let me know ill be boosting on low psi so I wont need internals. is there a way when I put it on to make it smogable?
It will fail visual but with a good tune will still pass a sniffer test. In some states this is completely illegal.

Quote:
Originally Posted by PEN View Post
Also I understand I can instal an oil catch can that comes with the turbo kit instead of running lines into the turbo and oil catch pan.
A catch can just helps remove some of the oil that comes out the PCV vent on the valve cover. When you hook up the PCV hoses you are going to need to run them to a place before the turbo. The vacuum sources on the throttle body and intake manifold are going to see boost so any PCV hoses that go there will get blocked off to keep you from blowing oil past the turbo seals.

Lastly since I am assuming this is for a 3sfe it probably has similar limitations to the 5sfe. That means that you will not be able to safely go past about 250whp without changing the ring end gap. With a 50 trim t3/t4 that is somewhere around 12-14psi. Any higher and you risk binding the rings in the cylinder and breaking pistons.

Last edited by mrturrari; 07-22-2011 at 07:47 PM.
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Old 07-22-2011, 10:10 PM   #6 (permalink)
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yeah its a 5sfe 2.2 . and thanks for all the advice. When you say tune what do you mean, remapped ecu? would I beable to plug and play an alltracs ecu or does a shop have to do it, also how much price wise?
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Old 07-24-2011, 07:38 PM   #7 (permalink)
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On a 5sfe "tune" usually means you use either a piggyback or a stand alone EMS since there is no cheap way to reprogram the stock computer. A piggyback just sits in between the sensors and computer and modifies signals. It is limited but works for small modifications like a turbo at low boost. A stand alone or EMS (engine management system) completely replaces the computer. There are no plug and play EMSs for the 5sfe and no other stock ones will plug in and work.

To do the tuning you either take it to a tuner who knows the system and they will tune it on a dyno or if you have a wideband and some skill you can tune it yourself on the street.

Piggybacks run anywhere form $300-700 unless you can find one used. EMSs are a few hundred for an MS which you have to build yourself to thousands. The tuning will be about $100/hr. For that setup you posted I would get an Emanage (Blue or Ultimate) or Perfect Power SMT (6 or 8). Since you are keeping it low boost the lower end will work as long as they can still do timing and fuel.

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Old 07-24-2011, 10:10 PM   #8 (permalink)
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those are pretty affordable prices for tuning. do you know a site that is trust worthy for something like that? or what kinda shop I'd have to goto.
I live in murrieta, CA.
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Old 07-26-2011, 04:43 PM   #9 (permalink)
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You are going to have to check around or ask in some local forums for a good tuner and dyno shop near you. As for the piggybacks I haven't shopped for a Greddy Emanage and there is only one Perfect Power dealer in the US. Just have to look around on the internet for good deals.
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Old 07-27-2011, 10:26 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Not to sound like a broken record but you would be better off buying a 3sgte building it and then just hot swapping it in. You get more power from an engine that is made for serious power, and you save money in the long run. No tapping for oil lines, no need for diff sensors, you already have the basic parts for a turbo set up, exe.
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Old 07-28-2011, 04:19 AM   #11 (permalink)
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would I need to make any adjustments to my engine bay or ecu for that swap?
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Old 07-28-2011, 11:28 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Not if you got an ecu from a 3SGTE Celica. There were 2wd 1990-95 models sold in the US as the GT-S. I think they also had a Turbo badge on them. Should all bolt right up save for a bit of wiring.
Once you start building or raising the boost on the 3SGTE tho, I'd consider a piggyback. Something like the AEM F/IC should do the job and keep cost down.
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Old 07-28-2011, 05:49 PM   #13 (permalink)
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okay thanks.
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Old 07-29-2011, 11:07 AM   #14 (permalink)
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FWIW, IMO turbo 5sfe's never last long. They're just not meant for boost. You're better off swapping in a solid 3sgte and running it stock until you save up the cash to mod it. Even stock its a good step up from the 5s.

Consider what your ultimate goal is too. I've had street cars that have put down +/-575rwhp reliably and strip cars that have made closer to 1000rwhp but neither were fun to drive. ...not for long anyways. My Scion makes around 250 at the crank with the modded supercharger on the TRD tune. It runs great and its a blast to drive because its got a bit of kick and it handles superbly. I've considered adding a piggyback to squeak a bit more power out but its not necessary for my needs.
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Old 07-29-2011, 06:51 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Thanks for the tips, I'll start looking for a stronge low milage engine to swap
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