Exhaust Manifold replacement procedure - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums

bumperbozo · 10-10-2011, 04:23 PM

the haynes manual says on my engine i gotta pull the manifold and the cat out as a unit, but earlier in the text it says "on some engines" you have to remove the cross member and move the exhaust pipe out of the way. Haynes is about as useful as tits on a frog. so is my car one of the ones where you have to remove the cross member?

RobMilkshakes · 10-10-2011, 08:52 PM

If you plan to just replace the cat and/or the manifold, then you should be able to just remove it as a whole unit from the top. Just remove nuts on the exhaust manifold studs, then remove the fasteners on the flange between the cat and the downpipe. Finally lift it all out from the top in one piece. Just remember to use penetrating oil, penetrating oil and more penetrating oil.

Moving the crossmember may only be for jobs requiring access to the oilpan? or in the cars without the 5SFE, as the converter is not connected to the manifold as they are in this generation 5SFE.

Remember that these manuals cover well over a decade of Celicas, so its a little hard to give specifics for each model.

alltracman78 · 10-17-2011, 06:44 PM

The side to side crossmember may need to be removed. The front to back one shouldn't need to be removed.
It depends how much room you have to move the front pipe down.
The manifold has to come up [or the front pipe down] to pull the studs out of the flange holes. The head to manifold studs don't let the manifold come up very far, so unless you can get the front pipe down far enough [or the studs break, but then you may have a problem getting the new one in] you won't be able to remove the manifold.

Heat works better than oil for exhaust bolts/nuts. Your less apt to break the bolt/stud.
And if you can find some canning wax [or crayons], heat up the nut [not the stud/bolt] and press the wax against it. Works like a champ.

bumperbozo · 10-17-2011, 07:56 PM

so are you saying, based on my engine and body, that i definitely WON'T be able to get the man/cat assembly out without either breaking the manifold studs or removing the side to side crossmember?

you don't worry about warping mating surfaces by using heat?

alltracman78 · 10-18-2011, 07:27 PM

Exhaust flanges deal with high heat every time you run your engine.
Regardless, you're supposed to be heating the nut, not the flange [unless you're trying to get a stud out, and I've never warped one of those either].

Quote:

Originally Posted by alltracman78

The side to side crossmember may need to be removed. The front to back one shouldn't need to be removed.