Rough idle, gas smell, erratic drive

[blackaneseazn]

Alright everybody, here's some problems I've had recently some that sound more serious than others on my 90 Celica GT-S.
The idle was previously higher (around 1000-1400 rpm)than usually is now, but before the idle would be relatively consistent. Now the idle consistently shifts up and down between 500-1000 rpm on its own and sounds like [/CENTER] its revving on its own from the sounds of my exhaust. When this happens it sounds like car is about to die out and shakes considerable more than before. Not only that, I can noticeably smell more gasoline more than usual. And I'm not sure if this goes in hand with the recent way its been acting. Also, when shifting gears, I notice a signicant drop in power from gear to gear. The drive has been very shaky as it seems like if I were pressing the brake pedal causing a back and forth motion. The shaking also happens when crusing on a flat roads and I would speed up just a bit. It would be much appreciated if anyone could help me solve these problems.

[turbo_GT]

check your fuel pump...under the rear seat..the fuel line is usually rusted since the car is 15 years old...your leak is probably coming from there.....maybe it's time to change the whole fuel line..but if it's a minor leak like mine..then you can just always patch it up..depending on where it is...

[Insanity-74]

Also check your spark plugs/ ignition leads & distributer cap, the fuel smell might be because the fuel isnt being detonated in one of the cylinders, this would also acount for the lack of power and rough idle and shakey ride.
Tickover should be around 1100 rpm when cold, 800 rpm when the engine has warmed up

[fredk]

pull your codes and do a fuel pressure test

[blackaneseazn]

had the map sensor changed out as recommended by my mechanic, did the job. but as for the rough starting, i still don't know what the problem is.

[turbo_GT]

rough starting..usually caused by bad ignitions...alternator...or battery..get those checked out...

[blackaneseazn]

forgot to mention that the rough starting only occurs when the weather is relatively cold but i'll check the battery and alternator for signs of problems.

[trebor_9513]

Originally Posted by blackaneseazn

forgot to mention that the rough starting only occurs when the weather is relatively cold but i'll check the battery and alternator for signs of problems.

Cold weather wreck havoc on a weak battery!

[GTSR5Corolla]

I was going to say check your injectors.. might have bad seal.. causing vac leak = idle issues and drive issues also the gas smell.

[Fabius]

Originally Posted by Insanity-74

Also check your spark plugs/ ignition leads & distributer cap, the fuel smell might be because the fuel isnt being detonated in one of the cylinders, this would also acount for the lack of power and rough idle and shakey ride.
Tickover should be around 1100 rpm when cold, 800 rpm when the engine has warmed up

my friend had the same problem on his 93gts and he changed his wires, plugs, cap, fuel filter only to find out he has to change his dizzy car fixed but -$550 in his wallet

[rellik]

Like to know how many miles are on the car...fuel system.
Worn out throttle bodies can cause surging in many cars.
Intake leaks are also a known problem (throttle body or intake gasket) when it comes to eradic idling.
I would trouble shoot from the intake at the head back. Start with a can of WD40 and spray seams...careful! Its flamable! And see of there is a change in idle.
Had a prob with my 89 Corolla GTS. At idle..if it did ..no power. But when I reved it up...life was grand. The flexable rubber intake from the AFM to the TB was cracked. So when I reved it up the vacume would close the crack in the rubber intake.
Start looking for stuff like that b4 you spend any money on fuel pumps etc.

Drive sane,

Rellik

[blackaneseazn]

my gts has 104,000 miles; i'm probably going to change the battery out and see what differences are noticeable. i've read other threads mentioning that there's no point in getting high end batteries brands like optima. since most batteries have a lifespan around 5 years, would the difference just be performance, lifespan, etc.?

[trebor_9513]

Originally Posted by blackaneseazn

my gts has 104,000 miles; i'm probably going to change the battery out and see what differences are noticeable. i've read other threads mentioning that there's no point in getting high end batteries brands like optima. since most batteries have a lifespan around 5 years, would the difference just be performance, lifespan, etc.?

Well, you also pay for higher cranking amps and cold cranking amps. If you get a higher amp battery, you have to also think about how much more work you alternator is going to do.

[rellik]

Lead acid batteries are a very old concept and are simple and unreliable.
They fail ( internaly) for several reasons. Sedement builds up in the bottom creating a short, the plates wear to thin to be serviceable, the acid becomes to dense or thin (add distilled water, or acid), the battery falls apart inside or cells merge...that is, a lead acid battery is really several lead acid batteries linked in series.
The only thing I would suggest is get one with the max cranking amps, and get it from a place that will prorate it when it goes bad....a reasonable prorate like 5 years.
They only last for 3 or so years in harsh weather.
And use a battery terminal protection spray.
Use it on the terms and at the grounds on the frame/body and engine...if applicable.
As far as the gold plated terms...waste of money...nuttin but bling bling.
A little gold between two pieces of lead aint gonna do nothin.
Optima batteries...waste of money.....bling bling.
Its like me asking you if you want coolaid or jello. Yer gonna piss um both out, and at the end its just a flush and there gone.
Just make sure you wash your hands

Rellik