I have tried everything but the rear main. New oil pan gasket, valve cover gasket, new distributor, and still the oil drips.....but only when the motor is running. It's definetly not the distributor. I removed the new and there was no sign of oil anywhere near or on it. Oil pressure is at 12 oclock, lower than what it used to be. Its got to be on the rear of the engine since the front is nice and clean. What am I missing? Is there some fitting on the rear or some external part where oil ciruclates? I know someone out there has the answer. I mean how many possibilities are there? I think I've covered them all. The drip point is in one spot, the center of the support beam under the engine. It used to leak from 6-8 points before i changed the oil pan gasket and the distributor. Now we are down to just one.
Yeah its me guy, I was at toyota back when your car was built and we had a little trouble with the head gasket seeping on the back corner right before it goes around the corner and up under the distributor on the s block motors, both my 88 and 89 camry are leaking there but mine are not leaking enough to worry about it, try this, get a couple cans of brake clean and get underneath and clean the backside of the motor all the way up to the valve cover and around both ends of the head, and if your motor has alot of miles on it a new rear main seal might not completely seal around the crank because the bearings are worn to the point that the crank is wandering around too much. Get the motor cleaned up and get it running and grab a bright flashlight and look over the headgasket closely from underneath
wouldnt there be a water leak if it was leaking from the head. In any case, its dripping on the leading eday of the bell housing where it meets the motor mount, and sliding down on to the main support.
Not always, Ive seen 60psi of oil pressure blow out a section of the gasket and empty the motor in seconds. Those sorry dodge 2.0 motors are famous for pouring oil out the back of the motor from the same place that the toyota s blocks do. get the motor cleaned up and go hunting, what year-motor?
thats the same thing that happened to mine. Oil was leaking from between the head and the block, lots of it. it was also leaking in about 10 other places too, but thats a different story.
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Ok, this is really getting stranger and stranger by the moment.
I sprayed gunk or whatever its called all over the motor from below the valve cover and down and then hosed it down. Since the hose that connects the valve cover to the throttle body was brittle and broken, I decided to plug up the nipple on the valve cover. I proceeded to drive to the laundrymat to do my laundry. When I came out, half of my oil was on the ground and coming out in a steady stream. I freaked out and decided to get my rear main seal replaced. I drove home and filled her up with oil, and removed the plugged nipple on the valve cover. That was Sunday. Two days later my oil is still full, pressure is normal and I'm down to a few drops when I park the car! WTF?
In plugging that opening, crankcase pressure bilt up because you plugged up the outlet and it came out through the rear main seal along with all your oil
Oil pressure sensor measure oil presure not crank case AIR pressure. You'll be blowing seals way before it change anything in oil pressure. Then the crank case is not 100% sealed so you won't get any pressure at all. Oil tight doesn't mean its air tight.
OK, heres the deal, your motor has oil piping all through it and theres a pump at one end and bearings on the other, when the pump picks the oil up out of the pan, it crams it into the filter and piping under pressure, now if your bearings are good and tight, you wont have very big leaks and youll have lots of pressure, now as the motor ages and the bearings wear, youll get bigger leaks and lower pressure, and after the oil comes out at one of the bearings, it hits the side and gravity makes it go back to the pan. Your gage is simply tapped into this piping somewhere, now as for this crancase pressure thingie this is simply the gases that get past the piston rings every time the cylinder goes BOOM if your rings are pretty new, you wont have much gas getting by, this is called blowby, but as your rings wear there is more, now in the old days motors simply had a line going from one of the valve covers and it hun down under the car, they were called draft tubes and they made messes everywhere, then some guy thought that the vaccum inside the intake could suck these gasses out of the block and the crancase breather system was born, the pcv valve regulated it to a point, but it was not a perfect idea because if there were too little gases being made, the intake would suck the oil pan flat and too much would blow it off. So now he had to fix his idea with a chimney, or a way for air to get into the block or go out and he simply made a vent in the oil cap. Fixed, until the motor wore out and way too much blowby was being made and the oil steam would pour out the filler cap and all over the motor, this was fixed by another line going usually from the valve cover to a place before the throttle plate, this is the chimney that you plugged up and the pressure built up in the crancase until something had to give
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