Ok whats the deal...since i have been back, i have replaced: Spark plugs, Air Filer, Oil change (mobil 1 5W20), PCV Valve, and i have cleaned the Throttle Body with TB Cleaner...and i still cant get more than 200 miles on a tank of gas. Its an 05 Matrix XR 4WD auto. I have the tire pressure correct on all tires, and the mileage fluctuates so much...like today i filled up the tank, i got less than 17 mpg...i put 11.2 gallons in...and i only went 168 miles....
Seriously...if i wanted the gas mileage of a tundra...i would have gotten a tundra...
The car only has 33,000 miles, i have had it since it had 900 miles on it...what am i missing? or do these cars just get generally poor gas mileage? i only get gas 1 place, and thats on Fort Drum from AAFES (PX)...their distributor is BP. im really frustrated...the O2 sensor cant be bad without a CEL right? its already been to the toyota dealer...and their solution was "someone must be stealing your gas"...WTF...the gas tank has a latch...they would have to break into the car. are you stupid? LOL
SO any suggestions? neither my wife or I drive hard...and gas is $3.52 a gallon here....im not liking the mileage on this car, in fact, its so bad, im tempted to trade it in, but i hate to do that because its a damn good car and i cant get the Prius in AWD...any suggestions?
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2006 Honda Civic EX in Galaxy Gray Metallic Pearl-WR Blue Brake Calipers, Ipod Integration, Debadged, K&N Drop-In, Mobil 1 Synthetic oil, Bridgestone Turanza 215-55-R16 Shoes, RedStuff Ceramic Brake Pads, Tint w/3m SolarGaurd film: 5% rear, 15% front, 30% moonroof
do you do all city driving? i mean to get mileage that bad, even with some dirty components, you must be going from stop to 30 mph then stop, then back to 30 every driving trip.
if i were you, i would be going back to the dealer and getting them to replace the motor or tranny or do something because the car is not performing as it should. even if it is auto and awd, it should still be able to hit 26 mpg regularly. just remember that the dealer is there to make money, and if they can push a car that is less than ideal, they are likely to try it. if you go in there complaining about it and tell them to fix it until it is right, and start getting "mad" about it, they will likely do something. they cant sell cars to unhappy customers, and they are more likely to sell a car for more money to a repeat customer than a new customer.
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2003 Matrix XRS-6MT-Black Sand Pearl-Castrol Syntec 0W30 European Formula
Mods - 18" Incubus Paranormal wrapped in Toyo Proxes4 - T-Max Style front body kit - Escort Passport 9500i...what a friend to have in the car - Part Time Mod Thule Roof Rack
do you do all city driving? i mean to get mileage that bad, even with some dirty components, you must be going from stop to 30 mph then stop, then back to 30 every driving trip.
if i were you, i would be going back to the dealer and getting them to replace the motor or tranny or do something because the car is not performing as it should. even if it is auto and awd, it should still be able to hit 26 mpg regularly. just remember that the dealer is there to make money, and if they can push a car that is less than ideal, they are likely to try it. if you go in there complaining about it and tell them to fix it until it is right, and start getting "mad" about it, they will likely do something. they cant sell cars to unhappy customers, and they are more likely to sell a car for more money to a repeat customer than a new customer.
I didnt buy the car from the toyota dealer...and i wont deal with the toyota dealer in my area, they are assholes...i have had 3 bad experiences with them, they treated my wife like shit while i was deployed. I have already written toyota corporate about them. the local honda delaer (where we bought the car) has looked at it and cant figure it out....im at a loss...im not gonna pay for it either...
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2006 Honda Civic EX in Galaxy Gray Metallic Pearl-WR Blue Brake Calipers, Ipod Integration, Debadged, K&N Drop-In, Mobil 1 Synthetic oil, Bridgestone Turanza 215-55-R16 Shoes, RedStuff Ceramic Brake Pads, Tint w/3m SolarGaurd film: 5% rear, 15% front, 30% moonroof
would that cause it? though i dont think it is the cause because its been doing it for over a year now (since around 15,000 miles...) i plan to do it next week.
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2006 Honda Civic EX in Galaxy Gray Metallic Pearl-WR Blue Brake Calipers, Ipod Integration, Debadged, K&N Drop-In, Mobil 1 Synthetic oil, Bridgestone Turanza 215-55-R16 Shoes, RedStuff Ceramic Brake Pads, Tint w/3m SolarGaurd film: 5% rear, 15% front, 30% moonroof
Does the car reach normal operating temperature quickly? The dealer can plug in the scantool and tell if the car is running in open loop (which it sounds like it's doing). If you don't like the dealer in your area, is there another nearby? I think they're your best bet in diagnosing the problem. Without the vehicle specific scantool, a mechanic will be unable to check all the emissions components.
Does the car reach normal operating temperature quickly? The dealer can plug in the scantool and tell if the car is running in open loop (which it sounds like it's doing). If you don't like the dealer in your area, is there another nearby? I think they're your best bet in diagnosing the problem. Without the vehicle specific scantool, a mechanic will be unable to check all the emissions components.
please elaborate...im an old carbuerator guy, i know little about todays modern fuel injection systems.
it does reach op temp within 5 mins at idle...is that normal?
also, i took it on a trip this weekend...on the highway i went 310 miles on 1 tank of gas...thats about 28 mpg...so what gives? great hwy but bad city? i mean its nowhere near what my ZX2 got (FWD/5sp) on the hwy, there were times i tapped 40mpg in that thing...but with the awd and auto and being heavier i wouldnt expect it, but i would be happy with 25 mpg in town...
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2006 Honda Civic EX in Galaxy Gray Metallic Pearl-WR Blue Brake Calipers, Ipod Integration, Debadged, K&N Drop-In, Mobil 1 Synthetic oil, Bridgestone Turanza 215-55-R16 Shoes, RedStuff Ceramic Brake Pads, Tint w/3m SolarGaurd film: 5% rear, 15% front, 30% moonroof
Open loop means that the O2 sensor is not up to operating temperature, and thus the air/fuel mixture control loop is literally "open". Usually in this mode, the computer delivers a slightly rich mixture to warm the engine, O2 sensors, and catalytic converter as quickly as possible. Once the engine water temperature reaches a predetermined set point, the computer begins to use the O2 sensor to control fuel mixture more accurately. It's all a balancing act of calculating how much fuel to deliver per volume of air.
If you make lots of short trips where your engine spends most of its time warming up in open loop, your fuel mileage will suffer. If your thermostat is stuck open and the car takes forever to warm up, then your engine is again stuck in warm-up mode.
5 minutes to reach operating temperature sounds right. Are you making lots of short trips? This would explain why your highway mileage is acceptable.
Open loop means that the O2 sensor is not up to operating temperature, and thus the air/fuel mixture control loop is literally "open". Usually in this mode, the computer delivers a slightly rich mixture to warm the engine, O2 sensors, and catalytic converter as quickly as possible. Once the engine water temperature reaches a predetermined set point, the computer begins to use the O2 sensor to control fuel mixture more accurately. It's all a balancing act of calculating how much fuel to deliver per volume of air.
If you make lots of short trips where your engine spends most of its time warming up in open loop, your fuel mileage will suffer. If your thermostat is stuck open and the car takes forever to warm up, then your engine is again stuck in warm-up mode.
5 minutes to reach operating temperature sounds right. Are you making lots of short trips? This would explain why your highway mileage is acceptable.
yes...work is less than 1.5 miles each way.
but this last tank, i went 110 miles and was on E...
i noticed yesterday that the assholes that did the oil change while i was deployed overfilled it by a quart and a half...could that do it?
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2006 Honda Civic EX in Galaxy Gray Metallic Pearl-WR Blue Brake Calipers, Ipod Integration, Debadged, K&N Drop-In, Mobil 1 Synthetic oil, Bridgestone Turanza 215-55-R16 Shoes, RedStuff Ceramic Brake Pads, Tint w/3m SolarGaurd film: 5% rear, 15% front, 30% moonroof
Too much oil in the pan will cause the crank shaft to have to cut through the oil, (increased drag) it can cause foaming and cavatiation in the oil too.
I see snow in your picture, where is the matix? Does it get the same mileage in the summer?
I am in Canada
Winter driving already affects fuel economy negatively, and winter gas is has a lot less heating (energy ) value. Cold tires (check inflation) cold fluids also gives you lower fuel mileage.
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2004 RX330 Sport
2003 Cam I4 XLE
2000 Cam XLE Gold Edition V6
1998 CamCE I4 Super Commuter!
Hey there, I am an owner of Mazda3s Hatch 2006 Auto and mys twin sister own's Toyota Matrix XR 2006 auto as well. To help you out here, I would do this
1. Try using different gas trations, same fuel grade, anything but not BP, if no improvements than go with a higher fuel grade 89. I personally filled up a couple of times with BP gas and it was during summer "it's summer all year long here in florida" my mileage dropped by almost 4mpg, since than i fill up with SHELL ONLY and never needed to use anything higher than 87, but because it doesnt get that cold in Florida I cannot conclude it is the cause.
2. Someone mentioned that during winter all the fluids effect mileage which is true, most of the fluids get densier during the winter and for that reason your engine will require to work harder to perform to it's best. How are your brakes? do you know what is the coldest temperature of your brake fluid in which it can perform? or maybe something slightly drags you rotors? just a suggestion...
3. It is wierd that you used 5W-20 on Toyota, it is thinner oil specifically used to increase your mileage but in long life run not so good for your engine, my sister's Matrix uses 5W-30 which i have used on our 3 previously owned Toyota's, Celica and 2 Corollas.
4. The are you live in, do you have lot's of hills? stop and go? mostly city than highway? I used to get 24-25 on Average on my Mazda3s changed my driving habbits and now dont get anything lower than 26.5 but if you drive 100% city than you are looking at 1-4 mpg decrease already from what on averege everyone gets.
5. It seems like you maintain your car very well, but personally if nothing fixes your problem and your car is in great condition but you still get horrible gas mileage than there is a problem with your car, do you still have a warranty on your car? If not, than trade it in and go get another brand if all Toyota Dealerships give you such a headache.
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