Only if you want to do it by the "book", assuming this is for a Matrix XRS? There was no mention of what model, trim, and mileage we are talking about - but since you mentioned removing the engine mount and shims - that would indicate the 2ZZ-GE engine. The 1ZZ-FE doesn't use shims - it has lifter "buckets" instead.
Don't "have" to take the engine mount off. That is more for making more room for you - as the engine is "tighter" in the bay compared to the 1ZZ-FE. Taking the mount off, and supporting with a jack from below will allow you room to wiggle that one bolt off the serpentine tensioner.
More curious on why you need to replace shims on the engine? Did you already do a valve clearance check first and they were really off?
If something has ruined the shim or if there is that much wear on it, then I would look into doing some more engine work (take the head off, cut the valve seats, cheack the valves, replace valve guides, clean up combustion - intake and exhaust bowls, new timing chain, new water pump, new chain tensioner, chain guide, etc.
Only if you want to do it by the "book", assuming this is for a Matrix XRS? There was no mention of what model, trim, and mileage we are talking about - but since you mentioned removing the engine mount and shims - that would indicate the 2ZZ-GE engine. The 1ZZ-FE doesn't use shims - it has lifter "buckets" instead.
Don't "have" to take the engine mount off. That is more for making more room for you - as the engine is "tighter" in the bay compared to the 1ZZ-FE. Taking the mount off, and supporting with a jack from below will allow you room to wiggle that one bolt off the serpentine tensioner.
More curious on why you need to replace shims on the engine? Did you already do a valve clearance check first and they were really off?
This is for a 1zz-fe Matrix base model. I have yet to check the valve clearance, but was just reading all of the directions before taking that on.
That said, with a 1zz-fe is it necessary to support the engine?
Quote:
Originally Posted by fishexpo101
If something has ruined the shim or if there is that much wear on it, then I would look into doing some more engine work (take the head off, cut the valve seats, cheack the valves, replace valve guides, clean up combustion - intake and exhaust bowls, new timing chain, new water pump, new chain tensioner, chain guide, etc.
The engine has 150k miles on it. I have yet to diagnose that I need new lifter "buckets", but I have somewhat of a rough idle (it's not shaking the car uncontrollably, but I can feel it), but no CEL for anything (misfires, etc). There's no chatter from the valves ( at least one which would turn your head ) and I can't tell if it's too quiet (if the valves were receding into the head).
I cleaned off the MAF and IACV and while my idle is lower, I still feel slight rough idling. I figure that checking the valve clearance is the next step. What would be the next check for rough idling if the valves are within spec?
Also, maybe a noob question, but the engine turns clock wise right? ( I ask because my Honda turns counter clockwise). And would it be easier to remove the wheel and the plastic engine cover behind it to get access to the crankshaft ( My Honda has a hole in that cover in which you get to insert a socket with extender to turn the engine).
Nope - do not have to remove any mounts at all. Just pop the valvecover off to check the clearances. If they are out of spec, you need to note the timing marks on the chain, pull the timing chain tensioner, remove the cams, and lift the buckets out to mic.
I would run some injector cleaner (the type you run through the injectors instead of adding to the tank) - you can DIY, but you'll need a SST or special service tool to disconnect the fuel line running to the injector rail. For a $100 or so - might be easier to have a shop do this.
Also check around the throttle body and intake manifold for vacuum leaks. Some of the 2003-2004 composite intake manifolds had a tendancy to warp slightly and leak. The fix was to install a redesigned intake manifold gasket - there is a TSB on this as well, but I don't remember off the top of my head. Was linked to the weird idle hunting and uneven idle, near stalling for some cars.
As for accessing the crank pulley, yes, would be easier to get at the pulley from the wheel area. The crank should be turned clock-wise (CW).
Nope - do not have to remove any mounts at all. Just pop the valvecover off to check the clearances. If they are out of spec, you need to note the timing marks on the chain, pull the timing chain tensioner, remove the cams, and lift the buckets out to mic.
I would run some injector cleaner (the type you run through the injectors instead of adding to the tank) - you can DIY, but you'll need a SST or special service tool to disconnect the fuel line running to the injector rail. For a $100 or so - might be easier to have a shop do this.
Also check around the throttle body and intake manifold for vacuum leaks. Some of the 2003-2004 composite intake manifolds had a tendancy to warp slightly and leak. The fix was to install a redesigned intake manifold gasket - there is a TSB on this as well, but I don't remember off the top of my head. Was linked to the weird idle hunting and uneven idle, near stalling for some cars.
As for accessing the crank pulley, yes, would be easier to get at the pulley from the wheel area. The crank should be turned clock-wise (CW).
I started my engine and it was really cold (1F), and was noticing uneven idling from the muffler/exhaust. I squirted some brake cleaner onto the intake manifold and heard the engine rev up a little bit. I guess my intake manifold gasket is leaking. Thanks for the info!
I started my engine and it was really cold (1F), and was noticing uneven idling from the muffler/exhaust. I squirted some brake cleaner onto the intake manifold and heard the engine rev up a little bit. I guess my intake manifold gasket is leaking. Thanks for the info!
OK, so when the engine was warm I again checked for leaks around the gasket but it didn't rev up anymore. I imagine that the rubber expanded with a hot engine that completely sealed it.
The TSB is EG045-07 . I didn't get such rough idling/huge leaks to cause misfires and CEL, and the rough idle and leak seemed to have gone away when the engine warmed up. Should I still replace the gasket?
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