My 2006 Matrix with 70K mile 1.8 engine developed a ruff running engine and got a CHECK ENGINE lite.. The car is drivable under 3000 rpm then it misfire almost feels like a over rev protection circuit. I pulled the codes and got P0300 Random Misfire, P0301, 0302,0303,0304 Cyl #1 to #4 Misfire and P0353 Ign Coil C Primary Secondary Circuit. I did a resister check on the spark plug coils and they measured the same. It seems the plugs are misfiring due to a common cause. Does anyone know what sensor causes the P0353 code?
Where did you last get gas and did you ever change the plugs? Did the misfire occur right after a fill up? Swap coil packs to see if the code follows it. Also pull and swap around the plugs, and inspect them first. There could be many culprits like a bad MAF, clogged PCV, fuel regulator, alternator, and ECU. The car is in limp mode and that it is why it cannot go over 3K RPM. Also inspect the wiring to the coil packs.
I would bet my paycheck that it is the ECU is faulty, as this issue has occurred in the past, coupled with the fact that your car is a 2006 and likely made in CA, as you live in CA. Toyota has had many issues with the ECUs on their 06 1zz fe engines. There are TSBs for faulty ECUs, but none of your codes would fit them. Toyota is pondering on recalling all 06s for faulty ECUs, but it may never happen.
There is a silver lining of sorts, the Emissions warranty is 8 year or 80K miles and the ECU falls under this warranty. Take it to the dealer after you inspect/swap coil pack and plugs and tell them too look at the ECU as being faulty. They will wave the $90 hook up fee if in fact the ECU took a shit. However, if the ECU is not to blame, you pay the fee and their diagnostics, but I feel safe in saying the ECU is dying. Do not take it on long trips, I would make an appointment to have them look at it ASAP.
Where did you last get gas and did you ever change the plugs? Did the misfire occur right after a fill up? Swap coil packs to see if the code follows it. Also pull and swap around the plugs, and inspect them first. There could be many culprits like a bad MAF, clogged PCV, fuel regulator, alternator, and ECU. The car is in limp mode and that it is why it cannot go over 3K RPM. Also inspect the wiring to the coil packs.
I would bet my paycheck that it is the ECU is faulty, as this issue has occurred in the past, coupled with the fact that your car is a 2006 and likely made in CA, as you live in CA. Toyota has had many issues with the ECUs on their 06 1zz fe engines. There are TSBs for faulty ECUs, but none of your codes would fit them. Toyota is pondering on recalling all 06s for faulty ECUs, but it may never happen.
There is a silver lining of sorts, the Emissions warranty is 8 year or 80K miles and the ECU falls under this warranty. Take it to the dealer after you inspect/swap coil pack and plugs and tell them too look at the ECU as being faulty. They will wave the $90 hook up fee if in fact the ECU took a shit. However, if the ECU is not to blame, you pay the fee and their diagnostics, but I feel safe in saying the ECU is dying. Do not take it on long trips, I would make an appointment to have them look at it ASAP.
I swapped coils and the coils were good, (I get 12v at the connector, also I did a resistance check on the coils and they were identical). Checked spark plugs they were good (they all looked like a good burn with good spark jump) but when I removed the #3 coil connector there was no change in the idle as with the other cylinder there was a definite drop in idle. Next time I am going to check is the #3 injector to see the condition of the spray pattern. Another odd result - was #4 cylinder was low on the compression check 40 psi the others were 175 - 180 cranking cold???? I scheduled to bring the car into the dealer next week for their diagnostic (your right $90) The car has an extended warranty to 75K miles but they have ways of not honoring these warranties.
Thanks for your input, if you think of anything else please let me know. I prefer to go to the dealer with an understanding what the problem is to prevent a big bill with a Snowjob>
I appreciate your input thanks again
Quote:
Originally Posted by mikered30
Where did you last get gas and did you ever change the plugs? Did the misfire occur right after a fill up? Swap coil packs to see if the code follows it. Also pull and swap around the plugs, and inspect them first. There could be many culprits like a bad MAF, clogged PCV, fuel regulator, alternator, and ECU. The car is in limp mode and that it is why it cannot go over 3K RPM. Also inspect the wiring to the coil packs.
I would bet my paycheck that it is the ECU is faulty, as this issue has occurred in the past, coupled with the fact that your car is a 2006 and likely made in CA, as you live in CA. Toyota has had many issues with the ECUs on their 06 1zz fe engines. There are TSBs for faulty ECUs, but none of your codes would fit them. Toyota is pondering on recalling all 06s for faulty ECUs, but it may never happen.
There is a silver lining of sorts, the Emissions warranty is 8 year or 80K miles and the ECU falls under this warranty. Take it to the dealer after you inspect/swap coil pack and plugs and tell them too look at the ECU as being faulty. They will wave the $90 hook up fee if in fact the ECU took a shit. However, if the ECU is not to blame, you pay the fee and their diagnostics, but I feel safe in saying the ECU is dying. Do not take it on long trips, I would make an appointment to have them look at it ASAP.
Hi Mikered30, you were correct it was the ECU, there was a SB my mine. To my surprize there was no charge to replace the ECU. Regarding the compression check, I used the same gage on cylinders 1 thru 4 and went back to cylinder #1 then cylinder #4 and got the same value on my first pass on cylinder#1 and #4, so I do not think my gage is bad or my process. I asked if they did a compression per my request and they said it was not necessary. The car runs OK but it feels it has less power. I am going to do another comp chk (hot) and post the results.
I appreciate your time to HELP out.
Quote:
Originally Posted by mikered30
If you are still around, did you ever figure it out?
Hi Mikered30, you were correct it was the ECU, there was a SB my mine. To my surprize there was no charge to replace the ECU. Regarding the compression check, I used the same gage on cylinders 1 thru 4 and went back to cylinder #1 then cylinder #4 and got the same value on my first pass on cylinder#1 and #4, so I do not think my gage is bad or my process. I asked if they did a compression per my request and they said it was not necessary. The car runs OK but it feels it has less power. I am going to do another comp chk (hot) and post the results.
After the ECU was replaced as you expected was the problem, the car runs normal. I did another compression check HOT, all cylinders were between 160-167 psi. I am at about 3500 ft elevation and the car has 67,000 mi. The previous check showed cyl #4 as 40 psi with the other about 175 -180psi and this was rechecked after I went all the cylinders again. Is it possible the ECU confused the variable valve timing software???
Again THANKS for yor HELP there be a bonus in your check this week.
Joe
After the ECU was replaced as you expected was the problem, the car runs normal. I did another compression check HOT, all cylinders were between 160-167 psi. I am at about 3500 ft elevation and the car has 67,000 mi. The previous check showed cyl #4 as 40 psi with the other about 175 -180psi and this was rechecked after I went all the cylinders again. Is it possible the ECU confused the variable valve timing software???
Again THANKS for yor HELP there be a bonus in your check this week.
Joe
It is best to check the compression when the engine is hot. Normal psi is 145-215, sounds like everything is fine now. Did you squirt any oil down the cylinder during any of the tests? I don't think the ECU can mess up the numbers, more likely the the test was not done correctly, but those current numbers are fine now, so enjoy.
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