Toyota ECMs cannot be "user flashed" like some other manufacturers. There are some adjustable parameters that can be accessed with a Toyota handheld scanner - but other than that, no other plug and play chip or module.
Most of those "modules" that you see online for this generation of Matrix are bogus. Many just change / bias the the voltage coming off the MAF - so they trick the car into thinking the air coming in is much cooler than it actually is. This will cause the ECM to bump up ignition timing and add more fuel, which can increase power. Problem is, the ECM doesn't just rely on one sensor input for this calculation. Worse, this can cause the engine to detonate, which in turn will cause the ECM to pull timing and reduce power. In extreme cases, engine damage may result from the constant detonation.
Best way to start playing with engine parameters - maximizing the usefulness of your bolt on parts, is to invest in a good piggyback EMS or stand-alone EMS. Prices vary depending on the EMS, who makes it, and what it can control. All will require some tuning to maximize results. Even with all stock components, you can adjust the factory air/fuel/timing maps to maximize power across the powerband.
Thanks for that infomation. The way it was explained to me by a friend was he could get one of those scanners to tweak the settings. I wasn't referring to anything that could be purchased. I don't have many bolt on addons, just an sri and cat-back. What should I have adjusted? I know that toyota engines have some uptapped or restricted power, so I want to try to maximize performance gains on a tight budget.
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'03 XR - Lunar Mist, AEM Short Ram Intake, Borla Catback Exhaust, Vibrant Strut Tower Brace, Tein S-Tech Springs, De-badged Hatch, TYC Black Tail Lights, LED Front Signals, LED Rear Lighting, I-Series Stubby Antenna, DRL Disable, 17" Gloss Black Falken Torque 5 wrapped in Falken Ziex Ze 912
The Toyota handheld scanner will be able to tweak some settings, but not in way to increase power. The air/fuel/timing maps are still locked in the ECM. Someday - someone might crack the Toyota ECM, but at this time, only piggyback and standalone options are available to the Toyota crowd.
With those two mods - probably not enough to be gained, for the amount of time, money and effort, to tune a piggyback EMS setup. If you want to do it as a learning experience - basically you are tailoring the air/fuel and timing maps to the mods you have. This means some time on a dynometer and hooked to at least a wideband O2 sensor, to monitor those changes, and if possible a EGT sensor to monitor exhaust temps.
As mentioned before, each car is a little different - some might gain a handful of HP, others a bit more. The most I've heard gained was a little over 10HP with zero modifications to the engine, only with tuning with a standalone EMS. If coupled with a decent intake/header/exhaust - that figure will be more likely to be obtained.
The 1ZZ-FE is pretty optimized from the start - unless you start dumping money into custom ground cams, induction upgrades, header, ect. coupled with a piggyback EMS - not much to be gained.
The 2ZZ-GE engine on the other hand, like previous GE-head Toyota engines, is known to have quite a bit of untapped potential. The FE-head in the 8th gen Corolla is known to take well to forced induction projects - turbocharged, supercharged, and nitrous.
I appreciate all that. I didn't realize the 1ZZ-FE was basically at its performance max. Too bad there's not more to be had for that engine. Anything else I can bolt on that wont kill my bankaccount?
Thanks for all that again. Looks like I gotta get an xrs. I had an opportunity to get an 03xrs as my first new car, but didn't wanna have to use 93 octane cause I couldn't afford that fuel at the time. Now gas is 3 times more expensive and I only use midgrade anyway. :-/
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'03 XR - Lunar Mist, AEM Short Ram Intake, Borla Catback Exhaust, Vibrant Strut Tower Brace, Tein S-Tech Springs, De-badged Hatch, TYC Black Tail Lights, LED Front Signals, LED Rear Lighting, I-Series Stubby Antenna, DRL Disable, 17" Gloss Black Falken Torque 5 wrapped in Falken Ziex Ze 912
Not a whole lot you can do without investing a decent chunk of money. Of course, it depends on your definition of "lot of money". For me, if I have to spend more than $1000, that is too much of a mod.
From your sig, looks like you hit most of the popular mods. Maybe look into adjustable struts and upgraded brakes could be next. Most of the engine bolt-ons will help with throttle response and make the engine sound better, but not too much in the actual, tangible HP gains (20%+ gains).
If you have a burning need for extra power - the fastest, least expensive way to get there is with nitrous. The 1ZZ-FE have been shown to take a 50HP shot with no problem, some have been pushing a 75HP shot and still are running well. Most of the comprehensive kits are running in the $550-$750 price range. For a true 50HP-75HP gain, you can even come close with other solutions.
Drawbacks are filling the tank (depending on how often you use it - some can make it last a week, some will bleed it dry in under an hour - 10lbs bottle will give you between 100-120 seconds of continuous juice, depending on jet size). Cost vary wildly as well - anywhere from $3/lb to $8/lb to fill up the nitrous bottle (850-1200PSI). Another thing to think about is legality. It is legal to purchase and use nitrous, the problem comes in when you cross state lines. Some areas require you to have a special license, as you are technically transporting material across state lines. Usually not a big deal, just burn if off or purge it completely before you travel, just something to keep in mind.
Not a whole lot you can do without investing a decent chunk of money. Of course, it depends on your definition of "lot of money". For me, if I have to spend more than $1000, that is too much of a mod.
From your sig, looks like you hit most of the popular mods. Maybe look into adjustable struts and upgraded brakes could be next. Most of the engine bolt-ons will help with throttle response and make the engine sound better, but not too much in the actual, tangible HP gains (20%+ gains).
If you have a burning need for extra power - the fastest, least expensive way to get there is with nitrous. The 1ZZ-FE have been shown to take a 50HP shot with no problem, some have been pushing a 75HP shot and still are running well. Most of the comprehensive kits are running in the $550-$750 price range. For a true 50HP-75HP gain, you can even come close with other solutions.
Drawbacks are filling the tank (depending on how often you use it - some can make it last a week, some will bleed it dry in under an hour - 10lbs bottle will give you between 100-120 seconds of continuous juice, depending on jet size). Cost vary wildly as well - anywhere from $3/lb to $8/lb to fill up the nitrous bottle (850-1200PSI). Another thing to think about is legality. It is legal to purchase and use nitrous, the problem comes in when you cross state lines. Some areas require you to have a special license, as you are technically transporting material across state lines. Usually not a big deal, just burn if off or purge it completely before you travel, just something to keep in mind.
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Flashing the ECU
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