I was trying to explain VVTL-i to a friend and realized i dont understand it. I looked it up online, and i can't really decipher the lingo. As far as i know, its something to do with change in valve timings. If so, why can it only kick in at 6500 rpm or so?
My second question has to do with oil. I live in montreal, and just moved there and i wanted to know if good oil makes a difference. If so, what oil is recomended?
Thirdly, does anyone notice any difference with Shell V-Power? I buy it cause its the cheapest high grade fuel in my town, but seriosuly - i think its marketing fluff.
Fourth, how many watts is the 7speaker premium sound system?
Finally, in a bizarre question, i have an old Crock Pot, you know, to cook chilli in and soup. I go skiing a lot and i thought i could warm up chilli in the car for the drive home (with passenger help and such. Do you think the battery can handle a food warmer? What signs should i look for when i'm draining too much power, ie, over the 120w max.
throw the pot in there and find out. For the VVTL-i, it's a dual cam set up, w/ one cam at low rpm's(below 6500) then depeding on which year you have, mine is an '03 so after 6200 the 2nd cam kicks in and u can run it all the way to 8000rpm for redline shifting. use can also advance/retard the timing which is compatible but depending on what tools you have to do that, i mean electronic management systems.
I was trying to explain VVTL-i to a friend and realized i dont understand it. I looked it up online, and i can't really decipher the lingo. As far as i know, its something to do with change in valve timings. If so, why can it only kick in at 6500 rpm or so?
My second question has to do with oil. I live in montreal, and just moved there and i wanted to know if good oil makes a difference. If so, what oil is recomended?
Thirdly, does anyone notice any difference with Shell V-Power? I buy it cause its the cheapest high grade fuel in my town, but seriosuly - i think its marketing fluff.
Fourth, how many watts is the 7speaker premium sound system?
Finally, in a bizarre question, i have an old Crock Pot, you know, to cook chilli in and soup. I go skiing a lot and i thought i could warm up chilli in the car for the drive home (with passenger help and such. Do you think the battery can handle a food warmer? What signs should i look for when i'm draining too much power, ie, over the 120w max.
2. yes, oil does make a huge difference specially now ur in montreal, winters there are harsher, going synthetic is worth it
3. no idea bout shell but for the most part, like other brands, they probably add fuel additives to 'enhance' their gas' performance. as long as ur using 91 and up, ur good
4. speakers are 15 watts each, unsure on the sub
5. if its old and designed originally for the home, it wont work. new ones are out designed specifically for 12 volt usage (ie lower current draw) ur local camping stuff store should have em
As far as the crock pot goes, I would think the battery drain wouldn't be too bad. If you want to just warm up some food with it and then immidiatly hit the road, you should be good. While it will drain the battery, the drive to the ski place will charge the battery well (assuming it's a significant drive there) and then the drive back will do the same. I would guess that as long as the crock pot is under the power limit (I think it's actually 100 W on my car, I'm in the states with an 05 XR) you shouldn't be able to kill the battery too badly. After all, they do sell 700 Watt power inverters and stuff that you have to hook up directly to the battery, I doubt they'd sell those if there were going to kill your battery in an instant.
As for using an old crock pot vs a new fancy 12V camping crock pot, it shouldn't make a difference as long as the two have the same power rating. Voltage is irrelevant in regards to the stress on the battery, power is what matters. So, if the crock pot you have does turn out to be hard on the battery, don't go buy a new crock pot thinking it's gonna be easier on the battery without first looking at the power requirements of it.
The vvtl-i only has two cams...one exhaust, one intake. the way the "lift" is acheived is by a solinoid activated by oil and a "shim" if you will is put in place between the cam and valve giving the valve more lift. I know this is not exactly how it works and it is far me technical than this, but it is the simplest way I can explain it. The timing is constantly changing so there is no way to get any power out of altering the timing hence the "VVT" Variable Valve Timing on the "VVTL-i"
As far as the crock pot...check the wattage on it and don't go over the cars outlet wattage.
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2004 Matrix XRS
Radiant Red
Strut Tower Brace
A Couple of "Go Faster" TRD Stickers (I swear I can feel the difference)
Last edited by slipknot490; 08-03-2005 at 12:37 AM.
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