its time for all new brakes. ive done some searchs already(at the risk of asking for the 1000s time). so what brake setups does everyone recommend/use?
it seems drilled and slotted arent worth it. im going for the stopping power dont care about looks at all.
should i just go with oem rotors and pads or is there something better out there? i do like to stop fast and hard also living in a very hot enviorment is there anything i should look for or stay away from?
Slotted rotors all the way around, Portefield RS4 pads and SS brake lines made all the difference in the world for me. Braking is now more than adequate - but maybe not enough for the true "go fast" guys though.
Next step would be a big brake kit. That's not on my mods list at this time.
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2000 Supercharged 4Runner
'89 Supra Turbo with a "few" mods
+1 - I would also consider the KVR pads, but I know bosco wasn't big on them...they can be a little squealy, but mine settled in perfectly. KVR does rotors too, but given the price of the CDN dollar, it may be a better deal to get the porterfield and slotted rotors down in the states.
cool thanks for the info. are there any other brands to look for. i see alot of stuff on ebay, but i dont know what brands are worth it. seems like alot of the stuff on ebay is some no name generic setup.
supra store has a powerslot package that has everything for 570$ does that seem like a good deal or is there a cheaper setup around?
Aftermarket "drilled" rotors tend to crack because the holes are actually drilled into the rotor; stock "drilled" rotors you find on Ferrari's and BMW M5s are actually made during the mold process and not drilled on.
If you're not on the racetrack and just do aggressive street driving, I suggest just upgrading brake pads, brake fluid, and getting stainless steel braided brake lines. Just find good street pads like Hawk HPS, and put in Motul or Valvoline DOT 4 fluid. Racing brake pads don't even start working up to their potential until really hard driving, or when doing 100+mph stops. They have to heat up to work and aren't really any better for normal street use, especially when cold. Plus they eat rotors faster and will dust and squeel. The more aggressive the pads, the more dust and squeeling.
I don't recommend Suprastore from personal experience and numerous other things I've heard them do to other people. The Axxis pads they have in the package are garbage, I've had them and stock was better at stopping and produced less dust. You can put together a better package for less with a little internet searching.
Personally I use Hawk HPS pads in front, stock Toyota in the rear, stock rotors, TRD lines, Motul fluid.
Aftermarket "drilled" rotors tend to crack because the holes are actually drilled into the rotor; stock "drilled" rotors you find on Ferrari's and BMW M5s are actually made during the mold process and not drilled on.
If you're not on the racetrack and just do aggressive street driving, I suggest just upgrading brake pads, brake fluid, and getting stainless steel braided brake lines. Just find good street pads like Hawk HPS, and put in Motul or Valvoline DOT 4 fluid. Racing brake pads don't even start working up to their potential until really hard driving, or when doing 100+mph stops. They have to heat up to work and aren't really any better for normal street use, especially when cold. Plus they eat rotors faster and will dust and squeel. The more aggressive the pads, the more dust and squeeling.
I don't recommend Suprastore from personal experience and numerous other things I've heard them do to other people. The Axxis pads they have in the package are garbage, I've had them and stock was better at stopping and produced less dust. You can put together a better package for less with a little internet searching.
Personally I use Hawk HPS pads in front, stock Toyota in the rear, stock rotors, TRD lines, Motul fluid.
id really like new rotors mine are really crap right now and need replaced im sure of it(im no brake expert but.). i figure might as well do a full replace while i got the cash to do it and upgrade to something better than stock. but if stock rotors are good ill stick with them...
i wasnt looking for a race setup as i really dont need it for sure in my n/a ha. just looking for something better than stock for daily driving. i really dont want the squeeling effect either that i have now its gotten Really old so ill be sure to stick with a less agressive setup.
thanks for the heads up on suprastore, ive always wondered about them but never orderd anything cause they seemed a little high to me.
TRD Lines and Hawk Pads aren't available for the MK3 anymore last time I check my catalogs. You really want to stay away from the Axis Metal Masters...POS's if you ask me...I bought them many years ago for my mk3 and was not pleased. Spend the extra few bux and get yourself a quality pad like the Porterfield R4S.
As mentioned...stay far far away from Drilled rotors. There are little to no performance advantages to drilled rotors for the hassle. Slots work great and keep the pad surface nice and clean
What sort of power levels do you plan on getting out of your car. Upgraded Rotors; Pads and Lines are more than adequate for 90% of the people out there. The other 10% are just accidents waiting to happen .
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George
84 MKII and 89 MKIII - Money Pits
2008 Yaris RS
Really, as far as I've seen. You can step up to brembo blanks which are nice and don't run a fortune, and throw on some Porterfield RS4 pads and you're good to go. Aftermarket brake setups for the Mk3 are expensive as shit, too much so for my blood.
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1988 Mk3 Turbo Targa - 17.5psi, 486hp, 494tq.
[img]http://www.**********s.com/supra/rsw_sig_stupidTN.jpg[/img]
Who came up with this 500px wide BS?
TRD Lines and Hawk Pads aren't available for the MK3 anymore last time I check my catalogs. You really want to stay away from the Axis Metal Masters...POS's if you ask me...I bought them many years ago for my mk3 and was not pleased. Spend the extra few bux and get yourself a quality pad like the Porterfield R4S.
As mentioned...stay far far away from Drilled rotors. There are little to no performance advantages to drilled rotors for the hassle. Slots work great and keep the pad surface nice and clean
What sort of power levels do you plan on getting out of your car. Upgraded Rotors; Pads and Lines are more than adequate for 90% of the people out there. The other 10% are just accidents waiting to happen .
right now i dont have alot of power lol (mostly stock n/a). im planning to do the turbo swap soon. i want to get the rest of the car ready for the turbo though befor taking that plung...
sounds like brembo rotors and the R4S pads with some SS lines might be the way i go. do i have to worry about the brembo rotors and certain types of pads? i dont want the squeel i have now with my brakes to come back later on if i switch from the portfield pads to something else...
Brembo blanks or slotted with porterfield r4s' will not squeel on you...add a set of SS lines and you'll be good to go for a while on your setup....just got your email; I'll pm you some details before the end of the day.
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George
84 MKII and 89 MKIII - Money Pits
2008 Yaris RS
Having had a good deal of friends that ran Drilled and Slotted, I've never really seen anything good in either, hence my personal recommendation of the Brembo Blanks. Drilled break, constantly. Slotted, just tear up pads that bit faster.
What we all need is a BBK (Big Brake Kit) that's sub-$1000 for us.
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1988 Mk3 Turbo Targa - 17.5psi, 486hp, 494tq.
[img]http://www.**********s.com/supra/rsw_sig_stupidTN.jpg[/img]
Who came up with this 500px wide BS?
I've had nothing but a great experience with my slotted...didn't tear up my pads at all and improved the initial bite rocks.
Sub $1000 bbk on a complete custom kit are very hard to come by...especially for the supra. Not like these things are wrx's and its worth the effort to figure it out cause you're going to sell a whole wack of sets.
I am working on a very very cost effective set that would include: wilwood dynalite's; coleman racing 12.81"x1.25 curved vane rotors; aluminum hats and caliper adapter and stainless lines...I'm shooting for the $1000 price range but still have a few details to work out.
Even with something as simple as the Nightpager kit you're still close to the $1000 mark...heck with factory components you're close to there so getting a bbk for that price will be pretty hard to do.
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George
84 MKII and 89 MKIII - Money Pits
2008 Yaris RS
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